tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-76813154017910994242024-03-26T05:21:58.465-07:00The Equinist: Articles and Commentary by Susan KauffmannArticles and commentary by equine journalist Susan Kauffmann. Topics may include horse health, training, welfare and anything else related to horses.The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comBlogger76125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-20042055224920685802024-12-31T16:43:00.000-08:002019-02-12T19:40:09.852-08:00Welcome to The Equinist<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNS2gAC4C4hafIP4EIcQbGW7iaZ_GP07FS8jsvuRJeoffBBF5Hu72KjzsPhrLIreMbvbM1uOc0STYCg9PwsQtENqGNlvoS6bPI_DCPLbpyf7loOJLNnEsjcdri-GQxdHiRkKotm7CFL0Yo/s1600-h/EQUINIST+logo+no+website.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5184056734659118882" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNS2gAC4C4hafIP4EIcQbGW7iaZ_GP07FS8jsvuRJeoffBBF5Hu72KjzsPhrLIreMbvbM1uOc0STYCg9PwsQtENqGNlvoS6bPI_DCPLbpyf7loOJLNnEsjcdri-GQxdHiRkKotm7CFL0Yo/s400/EQUINIST+logo+no+website.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
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<b>Welcome to "The Equinist", the blog of equine journalist, author, photographer and horse trainer, Susan Kauffmann. Susan's many articles have been featured in such publications as EQUUS, Trail Blazer, HorseCare, and Western Horse Review, for whom she has also served as Health Editor. In addition, Susan has written content for equine-related courses for Michigan State University's MSU Global program, she presents educational seminars for horse owners, and her reference guide to the equine hoof, <i>The Essential Hoof Book</i>, was released to widespread acclaim in September of 2017. If you would like to see some of Susan's equine photography, please visit: EquineShots.blogspot.com and WildOnesMustangs.blogspot.com.</b></div>
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I love writing for horse magazines and feel extremely privileged to do so. However, it has always frustrated me that once an issue is off the shelf, people no longer have easy access to the information in the articles. It is also frustrating at times to be unable to express my own opinion in the articles I write, especially on subjects I care very deeply about. I therefore decided to create this blog as an antidote to those frustrations -- a place where I can make my work permanently available in hopes that it might benefit horse owners seeking information, and a place where I can speak my mind freely on horse related issues and products.<br />
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I would also like to invite readers to post their questions and comments here (try my "Ask The Equinist" column!), and I will do my best to answer you if I am able. Thank you for visiting "The Equinist", and happy trails to you all!<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #660000;"><i>To contact me, click on the link that says "THE EQUINIST" under where it says "About Me" on the lower left side of the main page, and you will find another link that says "email me".</i></span><br />
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13;">Addendum: For those of you who have asked, the image above is a digitally enhanced photo of my morgan, Gryphon. Yes, he really is that pretty, but no, he doesn't have calligraphic markings -- wouldn't that be something?</span></i></div>
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The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-71588675151224999012019-02-19T14:42:00.002-08:002019-02-19T14:50:14.700-08:00<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="color: #351c75;">The Essential Hoof Book</span>: </i></span></b></h2>
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<b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">The Reviews are IN!</span></b></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I would like to take this opportunity to say thank you to the many publications and individuals who have taken the time to review <i>The Essential Hoof Book. </i>While we certainly hoped it would be a success, the positive feedback has been truly overwhelming!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Here are a few of the things people are saying about </span><i style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">The Essential Hoof Book</i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b>From the American Farriers Journal: </b><span style="color: #351c75;"><i style="caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34);">The Essential Hoof Book</i><span style="caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34);"> was written for the horse owner. However, the information and photographs that are used in this book to explain the concepts and goals in properly balancing the foot would be beneficial to any hoof-care professional. This is an excellent book for educating the public, well-written with exceptional photographs and illustrations.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b>From Dr. Debra Taylor</b>, Associate Professor, College of Veterinary Medicine, University of Auburn: </span><span style="color: #351c75; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">This book is absolutely AMAZING!!! Wow! Great work! It will be required reading for our students!</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">From Clinton Anderson, Downunder Horsemanship: </span></b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #351c75;">If you know me, you know I'm a learn-aholic and always looking for ways to better my horsemanship. Right now, I'm really enjoying <i>The Essential Hoof Book</i> by Susan Kauffmann and Christina Cline. If you get a chance, check it out from Horse and Rider Books.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b>From Master Farrier Gene Ovnicek: </b><span style="color: #351c75;">This book is a must-have for every horse owner's library.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b>From Pete Ramey</b>: </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #351c75;">I just finished The Essential Hoof Book -- awesome work!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(53, 28, 117);"><b>From HorseNation.com: </b></span></span><span style="color: #351c75;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Short of going to farrier school just to learn the basics, I had resigned myself to believing that the ability to pick up a hoof and “read” the horse’s recent history and see where the hoof needed to be shaped would forever just be beyond my grasp. Then I found </span><em style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">The Essential Hoof Book</em><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">. </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">This work, by co-authors Susan Kauffmann (trainer, educator and writer) and Christina Cline (certified trimmer and educator), could easily serve as a textbook for a class in anatomy, equine science or equine management, but reads so easily that you could find yourself working steadily from cover to cover. The text spells out everything the reader needs to know, beginning with the anatomy of the equine hoof and covering qualities of the healthy and unhealthy hoof, hoof disease, how to build a healthy hoof and the various options for shoeing, trimming, booting and more.</span><b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> </span></b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Since reading </span><em style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">The Essential Hoof Book</em><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">, I’ve found myself, almost without realizing it, looking closer at my horses’ hooves and noticing the more subtle details I used to overlook. With the wealth of knowledge easily accessible in </span><em style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">The Essential Hoof Book</em><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">, I’m able to learn more about what each detail means and take better ownership of my horses’ health. </span><em style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">The Essential Hoof Book </em><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">needs to be on every horse owner’s bookshelf.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(53, 28, 117);"><b>...And here are a few of the many reviews on Amazon:</b></span></span></div>
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<b style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><span class="a-size-basea-color-secondaryreview-byline">From Dan Lynch Delaware Natural Hoof Care and Horsemanship:</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: #351c75; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i>FIVE STARS...</i>A must have book if there ever was one.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #351c75;">As a life long horseman, a hoof care provider for the last 15 years and an avid reader, hoof care books are nothing new in our house. This book however has moved to the top of my list as a favorite. Extremely well written and laid out. This book is a must for both the beginner as well as the seasoned horseman. If you are tired of farriers and veterinarians talking in what seems to be foreign gibberish about your horses hooves this is the book for you. Knowledge is power. Trust me when I tell you that when you are informed about your horses hooves and can engage in an educated conversation about your horses care you will get better service from your farrier. Gone will be his sorry excuses.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">From Endurancehmt:</b></div>
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<span style="color: #351c75;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b><i>FIVE STARS...</i></b></span><b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The authors achieve the magical combination of making each topic easy to understand</span></b></span></div>
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<span class="a-size-basereview-text"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #351c75;">This is a (no,THE) must-have book for anyone interested in hoof health, whether you are a DIYer, a professional hoof trimmer or just own a horse. And whether your horses are barefoot, booted, or shod. The authors achieve the magical combination of making each topic easy to understand, while still very in depth. The writing is clear and concise and the photos and illustrations and computer models are absolutely top notch. I've been doing a lot of independent reading and studying on hoof care over the last several years and this really brought it all together for me, but would be just as worthwhile to a total beginner.</span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<b style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">From </b><span class="a-size-basea-color-secondaryreview-byline" style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b>Karen A. Warne</b></span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">:</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<span style="color: #351c75;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i><b>FIVE STARS</b>...</i></span><b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">An essential book for owners, vets, and farriers who care about their horse’s hoofs</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #351c75;">After owning horses for 50 years, and then having a horse that had a mild case of laminitis, I found out that I needed to be more knowledgeable about my horse’s hooves, and could not just trust that the farrier would do what was needed. I have been on a quest to understand the anatomy, the physiology, and the mechanics of the hoof. There are so many differing opinions, I had been searching for something that not only explained the hoof in common language, but also showed pictures so I could see what was being referenced. I ordered this book, and it is AMAZING! The explanations, the pictures, and many discussions of common, and not so common, problems with the hoof make this book essential to my understanding. There is a saying, “no hoof, no horse”, and so I highly recommend this book for anyone who wants to truly understand their horse. I would also suggest that farrier and vets have a copy of this book so that they can use the pictures and easy explanations when they are educating their clients.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">From Gaitlover:</span></b></div>
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<span style="color: #351c75;"><b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i>FIVE STARS...</i></span></b><b style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Best book on hoof care out there</b></span></div>
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<span class="gmail-a-size-basegmail-review-text"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #351c75;">This is THE best book on hoof care I have read, and I've read a LOT of them. This is written clearly with lots of 'memory joggers' so the non-technical/professional person can understand and remember things. The photos are full color, very clear, with explanations and little arrows pointing to what is being explained so you know what you are looking for. I highly recommend it for every horse owner.</span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="gmail-a-size-basegmail-review-text"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">We also have been extremely grateful to hear from individuals who have written to us directly to tell us about the difference The Essential Hoof Book has made in their ability to care for their horses. In some instances, the book has quite literally made the difference between life and death, as people were able to find understanding and solutions where none had been offered. We wrote this book to empower horse owners to be the best advocates possible for their horses' hoof health, and we are so glad that this is actually happening! Thank you, once again.</span></span></div>
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The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-87570957631655845902015-01-03T12:42:00.002-08:002021-03-14T16:18:10.737-07:00Major Minerals: A Balancing Act<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<b>MAJOR MINERALS: A BALANCING ACT</b></div>
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<b>By Susan Kauffmann</b></div>
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<b>With special
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Most horse
owners are aware that minerals are an important part of a horse’s diet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some of us try to address this with
mineralized salt blocks, supplements or “balanced” feeds, while others believe
that a horse will get all the minerals it needs from pasture and/or good
quality hay.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Who is right?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Well, like everything else in the horse
world, it depends on who you talk to.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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The gold standard for the mineral
requirements of horses has long been the National Research Council guidelines,
but some researchers and equine nutritionists now feel that these guidelines,
published in 1989, are out of date and in need of adjustment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some recommend feeding as much as two times
the NRC requirements or even more, yet many prefer to stick with the current
recommendations, pointing out that there is simply not enough data to support
radical changes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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Things become even more confusing
when you start to look at the interactions of various minerals, the ratios
required to keep them all balanced, the bioavailability of different mineral
forms, and so on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Where does this leave
the average horse owner?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Should you be
supplementing your horse’s diet?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If so,
what should you be using, and how much?</div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The first
step in determining whether or not your horse needs mineral supplementation is
figuring out what minerals he is getting in his diet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The only real way to do this is to have your forage and other
feed sources analyzed, then supplement accordingly under the guidance of a well
qualified equine nutritionist.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Short of
that, there are certain generalizations one can gather about common feeds and
forages that are useful when formulating a diet, though far from perfect.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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In addition, it makes sense for all
horse owners to try to gain at least a basic understanding of what a horse’s
mineral requirements are and how the various minerals affect each other in the
horse’s body.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because a complete
examination of these topics would fill a library, this article will focus on
the minerals most commonly deficient or out of balance in the average horse’s
diet:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>calcium, phosphorus, magnesium,
copper, zinc and selenium.</div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>A good
place to start is by taking a look at the roles of calcium (Ca) and phosphorus
(P) in the horse’s body.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These minerals
interact closely with each other and are involved in many important bodily
processes, the most significant of which is the development and maintenance of
bones.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another function of calcium is
proper contraction of the muscles, including the heart, while phosphorus is
needed for kidney function, cell repair and the metabolism of sugars,
carbohydrates and fats.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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In order to perform properly,
calcium and phosphorus must be present not only in certain amounts, but in a
certain ratio to each other – ideally with the Ca:P balance at approximately
2:1.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most nutritionists agree that
healthy adult horses can tolerate a ratio as low as 1:1 and as high as 5:1, but
you never want to see the ratio reversed (1:2, for example), as too much
phosphorus interferes with the body’s ability to absorb and utilize
calcium.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This can cause a serious
calcium deficiency, even if the total amount of calcium being consumed is
within the NRC guidelines or even higher.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Ultimately, this makes the Ca:P ratio even more important than the total
amounts of each mineral. </div>
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Though the importance of the Ca:P
ratio has been known for many years, horses are still more likely to suffer
from a deficiency or imbalance of calcium and phosphorus than of any other
minerals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In adult horses, this can
lead to fractures or mysterious, transient lameness, while growing horses
lacking the correct amounts of calcium and phosphorus can suffer from
developmental orthopedic diseases such as osteochondrosis and rickets (osteomalacia).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These problems occur because the bones are
the body’s storehouse of calcium, so if there isn’t enough of this mineral
coming in through the diet, the body will take calcium from the bones to meet
other metabolic needs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This “leeching”
of calcium is why horses can end up with weak, brittle bones – or malformed
bones and joints in growing horses – if they don’t get adequate amounts of
calcium and phosphorus in the right proportion.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The fact that the body will leech calcium from the bones is also
why serum testing is a poor indicator of Ca:P status, as there may appear to be
plenty of calcium in the blood, but it could have come from the bones, not the
diet. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in;">
The most common problem – too much
phosphorus in proportion to calcium – can be caused by feeding large amounts of
grain or regularly feeding wheat bran or non-calcium balanced rice bran.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Both grains and grain by-products like bran
are typically high in phosphorus and low in calcium, which is why it is often
better to feed a balanced, commercial grain feed than plain grain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the past, it was not uncommon for horses
to suffer from “big head” or “bran disease” (nutritional secondary
hyperparathyroidism), though this is not frequently seen today.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In this condition, a severely inverted Ca:P
ratio causes the concentration of blood calcium to drop, which triggers the
release of parathyroid hormone. This hormone then releases calcium from the
bone in order to maintain an adequate concentration of blood calcium.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When extensive calcium is removed from the
head bones of the horse, the amount of fibrous connective tissue increases,
causing the head to actually increase in size.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The head appears puffed or swollen, hence the name "big head
disease."<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fortunately, that
problem is seen far less often these days, due in part to the awareness modern
feed manufacturers have of the importance of the Ca:P ratio.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in;">
Many horse owners, however, try to
do “the balancing act” on their own, and unfortunately,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>this can actually make matters worse instead
of better.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For example, some owners,
convinced that grain is necessary but aware of the high phosphorus levels, try
to counter this by feeding large portions of alfalfa, which is known to be high
in calcium.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, it is easy to go
overboard with alfalfa, which can skew your Ca:P ratio in the opposite
direction.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This can cause a number of
problems, particularly for very hard working or endurance horses, as excess
calcium affects the body’s production of calcium-regulating hormones, which are
then not able to function properly when called upon during extended, strenuous
exercise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The end result for these
horses can ironically be insufficient plasma calcium levels, which can lead to
metabolic-related disturbances including synchronous diaphragmatic flutter
("thumps").<span style="color: saddlebrown;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Excessive calcium can also lead to
magnesium deficiency, weakened bones due to changes in the pattern of mineral
deposition caused by the secondary magnesium deficiency, and has been indicated
in epiphysitis, which is an inflammation of the growth plates.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Many
nutritionists now recommend that the majority of a horse’s diet should consist
of grass hay, which at least usually falls within the range of 5:1 to 1:1 in
its Ca:P ratio.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you do need to
increase your horse’s calcium intake (important for pregnant or lactating mares
as well as weanlings and growing horses), or you want your horse to have more
caloric energy than grass hay provides, you may want to consider adding some
beet pulp to the daily rations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Beet
pulp, which is high in calcium, is gaining favor in many corners as the feed of
choice to up the calcium and/or energy content in a horse’s diet, as you avoid
the possible high protein issues of alfalfa, while at the same time getting
approximately the same energy of oats without the glycemic spike of a grain.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in;">
Another mineral that is frequently
deficient and must be considered when looking to establish a healthy diet is
magnesium (Mg).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Like calcium and
phosphorus, magnesium is an important component of bone, but magnesium is also
crucial for hundreds of non-bone related functions in the horse.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Magnesium dependent processes include
regulation of the insulin response to maintain normal blood sugar levels;
proper nerve functioning; protein synthesis for the production and repair of
muscle and hoof tissues; normal contracture of cardiac and skeletal muscle,
maintaining circulation and preventing blood clots.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in;">
Since magnesium, calcium and
phosphorus can interfere with each other’s absorption and utilization, it is
important to keep an approximately 2:1:1 ratio of Ca:P:Mg.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
Magnesium deficiency is thought to be very
common in horses, often because of diets too high in calcium and/or phosphorus,
but also because m<span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">agnesium has been
consistently depleted in our soils, a situation made worse by the use of
potassium and phosphorus laden fertilizers, which alter the ability of plants
to uptake magnesium.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because of this, h</span>orses
fed only grass or hay without any supplementation are often magnesium
deficient, and because magnesium is lost during exercise, hard-working horses
can become magnesium deficient if care is not taken.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in;">
Signs of magnesium deficiency
include nervousness, muscle tremors or cramp, poor tolerance for work and in
extreme cases, convulsions and even death.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Because of magnesium’s key involvement in nerve function, horses that
are commonly described as “high strung” or “spooky” may actually just be
suffering from a magnesium deficiency, which is why many products touted as
“calming” agents for horses are magnesium based.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Horses that get overly excitable, hyperactive or difficult to
handle in the Spring may similarly be magnesium deficient, due to the
particularly low levels of magnesium in rapidly growing grasses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Such horses frequently do calm down when
magnesium levels are brought back to normal levels through supplementation.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in;">
Surplus magnesium is excreted in
the urine, so excessive magnesium consumption is not generally dangerous in and
of itself, although there is some evidence that it may be a factor in the
formation of enteroliths (intestinal stones).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The main problem with too much magnesium is its effect on the body’s
ability to absorb and use calcium and phosphorus.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Too much magnesium may therefore cause a deficiency of calcium
and/or phosphorus, even if the amounts of calcium and phosphorus in the diet
are within the recommended levels.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This
is why it is so important to consider the ratios of all three of these minerals
when attempting to supplement any of them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Yet another
ratio that should be considered is that between copper (Cu) and zinc(Z).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Copper is important for the normal
development of cartilage, the conversion of cartilage to bone, skin and hair
pigmentation, the strength and elasticity of blood vessels, the formation of hemoglobin,
nerve conductivity and coordination, prevention of anemia, fertility health and
a number of enzymatic functions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some
of the problems associated with copper deficiency are low fertility in mares,
contracted tendons, epiphysitis and other developmental orthopedic disorders in
growing horses, anemia, dull and/or “bleached” coats, and a loss of pigment in
the skin around the eyes and muzzles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Some people believe that it can also make horses more vulnerable to
bacterial or fungal skin problems like mud fever and rain scald.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Like
copper, zinc is important for many enzymatic functions, acting as both an
activator and a co-factor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are
also more than 200 zinc containing proteins, so it is not surprising that zinc
is necessary for healthy skin, bone, connective tissue and hoof growth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A deficiency of zinc can lead to
reproductive problems, a variety of metabolic disorders, as well as bone and
cartilage problems, brittle or crumbly hooves, dull coats and dry, flaking
skin.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in;">
It is not uncommon for the total
amounts of both copper and zinc to be deficient in our horses’ diets, and this
can be exacerbated by an imbalance between the two, particularly if there is
far more zinc than copper.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is
recommended that the Cu:Z ratio be maintained at a maximum of 1:3, meaning that
if your zinc level is more than three times your copper level, you would need
to supplement copper.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, high
levels of other minerals such as molybdenum and sulfur can complicate this
balance, as these are also known to “tie up” copper, making it unavailable to
the body.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In fact, many minerals can
influence and interfere with the body’s use of many other minerals, which is
one of the reasons why mineral balancing is so complicated. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in;">
Minerals are also closely linked to
certain vitamins, requiring adequate amounts of those vitamins to be correctly
processed and utilized.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One frequently
deficient mineral that is well known for its interaction with a particular
vitamin is selenium (Se), which works with vitamin-E as part of the cellular
antioxidant defense system.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Both nutrients
play key roles in the production of enzymes that work to neutralize free
radicals that form as byproducts of metabolic activity and as a result of
exposure to environmental contaminants. Recent research has also revealed a
probable role of selenium in converting thyroxine (T4) to triiodothyronine
(T3), which is the tissue active form of thyroid hormone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is therefore possible that some of the
clinical symptoms often attributed to hypothyroidism in horses are, instead, a
result of selenium deficiency.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">
What the horse owner needs to keep in mind about
selenium is the fact that while it is deficient enough in many areas to require
supplementation, excess selenium is a dangerous poison, and it doesn’t take
much to overdose even a big animal like a horse.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chronic selenium poisoning is an extremely painful condition
which can cause separation of the hoof and severe lameness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the worst cases, the whole hoof may
become deformed and even fall off, requiring that the horse be euthanized.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Acute selenium toxicity, which is sometimes
called “blind staggers”, is characterized by apparent blindness, head pressing,
abdominal pain, diarrhea, perspiration, increased heart and respiration rates,
and lethargy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because of the low margin
of error in supplementation of selenium, it is particularly important to get
professional guidance in regards to this mineral – and to make sure you are not
supplementing selenium in an area that already has too much of it, or feeding
multiple products that each contain added selenium.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in;">
If you choose to supplement any
individual minerals, be aware that the minerals available at your local feed
store are compounds, not pure, elemental minerals, so the amount you need to
add must be calculated based on the percentage of elemental mineral in the
compound.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For example, calcium
carbonate contains 40% calcium, so if you wanted to add five grams of calcium
to the diet, you would need to supplement with 12.5 grams of calcium carbonate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You may also wish to examine the benefits of
using organic (chelated) mineral forms as part of your supplementation program,
as research suggests that organic minerals have greater bioavailability –
meaning that they are more easily absorbed and utilized – than inorganic forms.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hard working horses in particular seem to
benefit from the inclusion of organic minerals in their diets. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in;">
<b> It is also extremely important
to keep in mind that adding any individual minerals without taking into account
possible toxicity issues, as well as the complex interactions of the entire
mineral spectrum, may cause serious harm or potentially dangerous imbalances,
and it is therefore recommended that you only supplement individual minerals
under the guidance of a qualified equine nutritionist or veterinarian.</b></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent"> <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>If you are
interested in finding out more about minerals and supplementation, we recommend
the book <u>Equine Supplements & Neutraceuticals:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A Guide to Peak Health and Performance</u>, by noted veterinarian
and equine nutritional expert, Dr. Eleanor Kellon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A good online source of information is The Equine Cushings Group
at:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><a href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EquineCushings">http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EquineCushings</a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Though the site is primarily aimed at owners
of horses with metabolic disorders, its files section and archives contain a
great deal of excellent information on minerals, mineral balancing, and general
nutrition for horses.</div>
The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-66401916003956516852013-06-23T16:58:00.000-07:002013-06-23T16:58:54.038-07:00Hind End Hitch<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<span style="font-weight: normal;">While there are any number of ailments and injuries
that can cause a horse to “go off” behind, some neurological and mechanical
problems create specific abnormalities of movement you can learn to distinguish
– if you know what to look for. The following guide will help you recognize the
abnormalities caused by three ailments often mistaken for one another: upward
fixation of the patella (UFP), shivers, and stringhalt. I’ve even included
video links so that you can check out the differences for yourself!</span>
<div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;">
<b>UPWARD FIXATION OF THE
PATELLA</b> </div>
<div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;">
<b>Incidence: <span style="font-weight: normal;">Fairly common</span></b></div>
<b>
</b><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;">
<b>Etiology: <span style="font-weight: normal;">Mechanical, possibly linked to conformation in some
cases</span></b></div>
<b>
</b><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;">
<b>Breeds affected: <span style="font-weight: normal;">Any</span></b></div>
<div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"></span></div>
<div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"></span></div>
<div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"></span></div>
<div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"></span></div>
<div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"></span><b>What it
is:<span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span></b>When
in a standing position, the horse has the ability to temporarily “lock” or
fixate its stifle joints, allowing the horse to stand and even sleep standing
up with minimal muscular exertion.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
joint locks when the patella (knee cap) slides into the upward position, and
the medial patellar ligament<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(MPL)
shifts slightly to the inside and hooks over a notch in the medial femoral
trochlea, a knob-like structure located at the bottom end of the femur.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The patella is then fixed in its upward
position, keeping the limb extended.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"> Fixation only becomes a problem when the locking mechanism
doesn’t release properly when the limb needs to flex.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<div class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;">There are a variety of factors that may contribute to UFP, but
one of the most common is thought to be a lack of tone or condition in the
muscles and ligaments in the stifle area </span><span style="font-weight: normal;">In the most extreme cases of UFP, the horse is
completely unable to flex the affected leg without assistance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the mildest cases of UFP, there is only a
brief delay in flexion, without any actual locking of the limb. Horses with UFP
may<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>fall anywhere in between mild and
severe. Locking or less severe “catching” may be intermittent.</span> </div>
<div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left; text-indent: .5in;">
UFP is usually present in both stifles, though
symptoms are generally seen only on one side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Examination most often shows that the other side is strongly predisposed
to develop the problem, and it is not unusual for the “good” side to become
symptomatic after treatment of the initially affected side. </div>
<div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left; text-indent: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">
<b> What it looks like: </b>The most severe cases of
UFP are easy to distinguish: the “locked” leg will hyperextend (stick out
behind the horse), and cannot release forward. In moderate cases where the leg
“catches” noticeably at times but releases on its own, the leg will remain
extended behind the horse for longer than normal, then “pop” out of the locked
position, often with exaggerated flexion of the hock. There may actually be an
audible pop or click when this occurs. Very mild cases can easily go
undetected, as there may not be any observable abnormality in the gait. What
you may notice instead is that the horse is reluctant to perform movements that
require it to push off with or increase flexion of the affected limb. Whatever
the severity, it is quite common for signs of UFP to come and go.</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">
Because of its variability, some cases of UFP can be
difficult to diagnose. “The most common way UFP is identified is by manually
pushing the patella up into the fixed position and then having the horse take a
step forward,” says equine surgeon and lameness expert, Dr. Dennis Meagher,
DVM, PhD, Dipl. ACVS, Professor Emeritus at UC Davis. “If the horse is normal,
the patella will unlock once the horse takes a step forward.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But if they are having problems with it
catching intermittently, you can usually make it catch manually.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In some cases, it is also possible to feel
sort of a clicking or catching if you keep your hand on the area as the horse
is walked forward.”
</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">
<b> Prognosis: </b>The prognosis in most cases of UFP
is very good. Mild to moderate cases can often be improved with a program of
specific exercises, and if that doesn’t work, success is often achieved with
counterirritant injections or acupuncture. Severe cases or those that don’t
respond to conservative treatment can usually be corrected with a simple,
minimally invasive surgery known as ultrasound guided splitting of the medial
patellar ligament. This surgery is a great improvement over the older method of
desmotomy, which cuts the ligament entirely and has the potential for serious
complications down the line.</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">
<b> Most often confused with: </b>Moderate cases of
UFP are often confused with stringhalt (see below), as the hyperextension of
the limb can release into hyperflexion, which looks somewhat similar to the
hyperflexion caused by stringhalt.</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<b>Video links: </b><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8uloBlHDZ8">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8uloBlHDZ8</a>
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(moderate)</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VmEMdcMyGr4">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VmEMdcMyGr4</a>
(more severe)</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<b>SHIVERS</b></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<b>Incidence: </b>Fairly
uncommon</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<b>Etiology: </b>Unknown,
possibly neurological</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<b>Breeds affected: </b>Mainly
draft horses, but can occur in QHs, warmbloods, TBs</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><b>What it is:</b> There are several theories as to what
type of ailment shivers is. While it is generally categorized as a
neuromuscular problem, the cause has yet to be determined. Some researchers
believe neuropathy is involved, while others are exploring possibilities such
as myopathy (muscle disease), genetic and metabolic disorders</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">
<b>What it looks like: </b>According to a 2006 review by
the AAEP, “<span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Shivers is characterized by
periodic, involuntary spasms of the muscles in the pelvic region, pelvic limbs,
and </span>tail.<span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 6.5pt;"> </span>Mildly affected
horses show a tenseness or trembling of the hind limbs and sudden jerky
extensor movements of the tail that cause it to elevate.<span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 6.5pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>The degree of tail
elevation varies considerably in different cases.” In more severe cases,
backing up causes the hind limb to raise suddenly upwards and to the side, and
the hoof is held in the air for up to several minutes. The raised limb will
tremble, and the tail will usually elevate and tremble as well. The horse may
exhibit symptoms in one or both legs. More rarely, shivers can affect the front
legs, neck, trunk or facial muscles.</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">
<b> Prognosis: </b>Horses with mild cases of shivers
may perform well for years, though the disease is typically progressive, with
spasms occurring more often and with greater severity over time. Muscle atrophy
and weakness of the hind end is an almost universal consequence as the disease
progresses. There is no known treatment or cure, though anecdotal evidence
suggests that a low-carb, high fat diet may help some horses.</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">
<b> Most often confused with: </b>The sudden raising
of the limb caused by shivers can resemble stringhalt (see below), but horses
with stringhalt do not hold the limb in suspension as horses with shivers do.
Stringhalt also does not affect that tail, which is a characteristic sign of
shivers.</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">
<b>Video link: </b><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2l90K9NoZ6s">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2l90K9NoZ6s</a>
(moderate)</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<b>STRINGHALT</b></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<b>Incidence: </b>Rare in
North America, very rare in Canada</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<b>Etiology: </b>Neurological,
some cases thought to be caused by ingestion of toxic plants</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<b>Breeds affected: </b>Any</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><b>What it is: </b>Explains Andrea Finnen DVM, DES, MSc,
Diplomate ACVIM, a specialist in equine neurology at the Caledon Equine
Hospital in Ontario, “'Stringhalt' is the lay term for equine reflex
hypertonia. There are two forms of the disease; idiopathic and acquired. In
idiopathic disease, signs are usually asymmetric with one hind limb affected
only whereas in acquired (also known as Australian stringhalt) disease, both
hind limbs are affected and a toxic plant etiology is suspected.”</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><b>What it looks like: </b>Stringhalt is characterized by
spasmodic, rapid and excessive flexion (lifting) of one or both hind limbs when
attempting to move, most often seen at the walk, when turning or when backing.
Says Finnen, “The flexion can be so severe that the horse's hoof hits the
abdomen.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In mild cases or in the early
stages of disease, symptoms may be hard to spot. Severely affected horses,
however, will exhibit obviously abnormal movement, with the legs jerking
upwards hard and fast, and possibly a plunging or hopping gait. Hind limb
muscle atrophy is present in some cases, and laryngeal paralysis (roaring) is
sometimes an accompanying symptom in Australian stringhalt. Symptoms may appear
and disappear intermittently.</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><b>Prognosis: </b>Some cases of stringhalt will resolve
spontaneously, but others will progress over time. “It is difficult to predict
if a horse will respond to treatment and what the prognosis is,” says Finnen.
“Some cases will take a long time to recover and may never regain 100%
function. There are reports of clinical improvement with conservative treatment
such as anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant medications. In severe cases,
myotenectomy can be performed to relieve the tension on the flexor tendon to
prevent the mechanical movement of the limb.”</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><b>Most often confused with: </b>The hyperflexion that is
the characteristic symptom of stringhalt is most often confused with shivers,
but can also be taken for UFP, especially in less severe instances.</div>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><b>Video
link: </b><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cii3DVIxp7w">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cii3DVIxp7w</a></span>The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-90717201569253771042013-05-13T22:33:00.002-07:002013-05-13T22:33:59.630-07:00Genetic Diseases in Horses: HYPP, HERDA, GBED, SCID, OLWS<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<h1>
Genetic Disease Primer</h1>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The birth
of a foal is usually a joyous occasion, carrying with it the hopes, dreams and
aspirations of the breeder and the future owner. Reputable breeders therefore
put a great deal of effort into matching the right mare to the right stallion,
in hopes of creating a foal that will have the qualities most desired in the
breed. Unfortunately, that desire to perpetuate certain characteristics,
coupled with the tendency to breed as many foals as possible out of horses that
have those characteristics, has led to the proliferation of a number of
heritable diseases that have very serious consequences. Although the science of
genetics has helped us to understand why these diseases occur, and in some
cases, provided us with tests to identify carriers, it is up to the horse
owning public – especially those involved in breeding – to try to make these
devastating diseases a thing of the past.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Here is a run-down of five genetic diseases you need to know about.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>The Disease: Hyperkalemic Periodic Paralysis (HYPP)</b></div>
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<br /></div>
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HYPP is a muscular disease that is
caused by a hereditary genetic defect that disrupts a protein called a sodium
ion channel, which functions as a gateway in the membrane of muscle cells. The
genetic defect disrupts the channel's normal opening and closing, allowing
uncontrolled sodium influxes. According to Sharon Spier,<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 9.0pt;"> </span>DVM, PhD, Associate Professor of the Department of
Medicine and Epidemiology at the University of California, Davis, “</span>The
sodium influxes change the voltage current of muscle cells, causing
uncontrolled muscle twitching or profound muscle weakness. High levels of
potassium in the blood usually are present when the disruptions in the ion
channel occur.” HYPP is a dominant disease, meaning that a horse only needs to
have one copy (from one parent) of a defective gene in order to have the
disorder and exhibit symptoms.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Why You Need to Know About it:</b></div>
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<br /></div>
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HYPP can have profound implications
for owners of affected horses, both in terms of care of the horse and breeding
considerations. Symptoms of HYPP can range from virtually nothing to
unpredictable attacks of paralysis which can lead to collapse and sudden death
in severe cases. The cause of death usually is cardiac arrest and/or
respiratory failure. Owners of horses with HYPP will most often notice
intermittent episodes of muscle tremors that manifest as generalized or
localized shaking, trembling, and weakness. “Occasionally,” adds Spier,
“episodes are accompanied by respiratory noises resulting from paralysis of the
muscles of the upper airway (larynx and pharynx). In cases of mild attacks,
muscle tremors may be so subtle as to be detectable only by an experienced
clinician performing EMG testing.” </div>
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Fortunately, keeping horses with
HYPP on a strict dietary and exercise regimen can eliminate or lessen the
severity of attacks in many cases. Many HYPP positive horses can lead
relatively normal and productive lives if they receive the lifelong management
they require.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small;">Research History and Breakthroughs:</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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Spier’s research, begun in 1989 and
funded by the American Quarter Horse Association, led to the discovery that all
horses with HYPP can trace their ancestry back to one stallion: Impressive. For
this reason, the genetic defect that causes HYPP is sometimes referred to as
“the Impressive gene”.</div>
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Dr. Spier and her team at UC Davis <span class="apple-style-span">made history when they were able to identify HYPP with
DNA testing in 1992. HYPP was the first genetic disease that could be
identified by DNA testing, and testing soon became widespread for Quarter
Horses and breeds that carry a heavy percentage of Quarter Horse blood,
especially Paints and Appaloosas.</span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span">As for
why HYPP became so widespread, this can be traced back to Impressive’s success
as a halter horse. In fact, there still exists in the industry the idea that in
order for a horse to win at halter, it has to carry the Impressive gene.
However, the science does not support this.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Explains Dr. Spiers, “</span><span class="normal1"><span style="mso-ansi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We were curious as to what effect the
gene would have on muscle mass, which is just one of the qualities that are
selected for in halter horses. We studied muscle cell (muscle fiber) diameter
and muscle fiber type distribution (slow twitch and fast twitch fibers) in HYPP
positive and negative horses. We found no relationship between large muscle
diameter and the gene mutation.”</span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="normal1"><b><span style="mso-ansi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Where We Are Today:</span></b></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span class="normal1"><span style="mso-ansi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Dr.
Spiers emphasizes that decreasing the incidence of HYPP is important for the
long-term health of the Quarter Horse breed. To facilitate this decrease, the
AQHA has instituted policies specifically focusing on HYPP.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Says </span></span>La Donna Wilkinson,
Senior Director of Registration of the AQHA, “The HYPP rule was first enacted
at the 1996 convention in response to concerns raised by the general membership
and in the scientific community as to the adverse physical effects associated
with HYPP. Effective January 1, 1998, HYPP was to be recognized as a genetic
defect and notification was to be placed on the registration certificate of all
foals descending from the stallion IMPRESSIVE. However, at that time testing
was not mandatory. <span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Effective
with foals born on or after January 1, 2007, all descendants of the stallion
IMPRESSIVE are required to be parentage verified and HYPP tested. Any foal
testing H/H will not be eligible for registration with</span><span class="apple-converted-space"> AQHA.”</span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space">According
to the AQHA website, the </span><span class="normal1"><span style="mso-ansi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">AQHA will accept HYPP test results only
if performed through a licensed laboratory. In Canada, these labs include
Vita-Tech Canada Inc., Markham, Ontario; and Maxxam Laboratory at Guelph,
Ontario. </span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="normal1"><b><span style="mso-ansi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">What the Future Holds:</span></b></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<span class="normal1"><span style="mso-ansi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Dr.
Cecilia Penedo,</span></span> Associate Director of Service of the UC Davis
Veterinary Genetics Laboratory, has noticed a trend in the number of horses
being tested for HYPP. “Since the test was made available in the late 1990’s,”
she says, “there has been somewhat of a decrease in the number of horses being
tested, because a lot of the animals and breeding stock have already been
tested.” Unfortunately, widespread testing has not resulted in a drop in the
numbers of horses diagnosed with HYPP. States Tammy Canida, Director of
Registration Operations at the AQHA, “As of our last statistical analysis, we
have not noticed a reduction in the number of affected horses. People are
testing them, and I think they know about the disease, but still, some of the
traits that those horses have they like as far as what they produce in the show
ring. I can’t predict what will happen in the future, but right now, it’s not
going away.” One can only hope that further information and education of the
public will prompt breeders to be more diligent in their attempts to rid the
horse world of HYPP.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>The Disease: Hereditary Equine Regional Dermal Asthenia
(HERDA)</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<span class="normal1"><span style="color: windowtext; mso-ansi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Hereditary equine regional dermal asthenia
(HERDA) is a terrible disease that causes a collagen defect in affected areas
of the skin, resulting in a lack of adhesion within the deep layer of skin
called the dermis. </span></span><span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Like
HYPP, the disease affects Quarter Horses and breeds that have a strong
component of Quarter Horse blood. The ancestry of most horses diagnosed with
HERDA traces back to the prolific sire Poco Bueno on both sides of their
pedigree. As such, As HERDA is a recessive trait, both the sire and the dam of
a horse must be carriers of the genetic defect for a foal to be born with the
condition. Carriers of the gene are not affected by HERDA themselves. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Why You Need to
Know About it:</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<span class="normal1"><span style="color: windowtext; mso-ansi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">HERDA is a devastating disease that often
causes the loss of a horse at the most exciting time for the owner – the
beginning of training. The disease causes the outer layer of the skin in the
affected areas to split, separate, or peel off completely, most often along the
back but sometimes in other areas as well. Even relatively minor trauma to
affected areas results in wounds that heal slowly and typically leave
depressions (atrophic scars) in the skin. New damage appears frequently, even
in the absence of apparent trauma.</span></span><span class="normal1"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;"> </span></span><span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Traction on the skin may elicit a painful
response. Areas of affected skin can range from small and well defined (with a
depressed surface) to large regions involving most of the back.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Horses are often diagnosed with HERDA at the age of 2, when training
begins and they are put under saddle for the first time. Pressure and movement
from the saddle causes the skin to tear and separate, making these horses
unsuitable for riding. Sunburn is also a problem for these horses. As there is
no cure for the disease, affected horses are often euthanized due to quality of
life issues and the fact that they cannot be ridden or bred.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Though some individuals have lived longer with
careful management and medical care, the average lifespan for a horse with
HERDA is 2-4 years.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 13.0pt;">Breakthroughs/Where
We Are Now:</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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Recently, a genetic test was
developed that can identify normal, carrier and affected horses. Says Dr.
Penedo, “The mutation that causes HERDA was identified by Dr. Danika Bannasch,
here at UC Davis, in 2007.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We now offer
a genetic test for the disease, and there are a lot of horses being tested.
Owners and breeders, certainly the ones that are in the section of the quarter
horse population affected by it where the incidence is higher were certainly
aware of it. However, it is obvious that the problem goes beyond the cutting
horse segment of the population, so greater awareness is necessary.”</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>What the Future Holds:</b></div>
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<br /></div>
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Responsible breeders in all segments of the stock horse
world are taking advantage of the test to eliminate HERDA from their breeding
programs, and it is hoped that the incidence will soon begin to decrease.
Because the disease is so destructive, it would be best if breeders would not
continue to breed HERDA carriers. However, because breeding a carrier to a
non-carrier prevents the production of affected horses, it is likely that some
breeders will find this an acceptable practice, allowing the gene to remain in
the breeding pool.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>The Disease: Glycogen Branching Enzyme Deficiency (GBED)</b></div>
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<br /></div>
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GBED is a recessive genetic
disorder that results in the lack of a particular enzyme involved in the
storage of glycogen, a type of sugar. <span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">The
foals lack the enzyme necessary to store glycogen in its branched form and therefore
cannot store the sugar molecules necessary to support body or brain function. </span>The
genetic mutation traces back to Quarter Horse sire King or his sire, Zantanon.
It is estimated that up to 8% of Quarter Horses and Paint horses carry the GBED
defect. Unfortunately, pedigree analysis is not particularly helpful in
identifying GBED carriers because both King and Zantanon are foundation
stallions.<span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Why You Need to
Know About it:</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">GBED</span> affects Quarter Horse or Paint horse foals, causing
abortion or high neonatal mortality. <span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">This
disease is fatal as the heart muscle, brain and skeletal muscles are unable to
function. </span>Affected foals are often aborted in late term or are
stillborn. If the foal is born alive, it will be weak, slow to stand and nurse,
and it will have a low body temperature. It may also have mildly contracted
tendons. Medical intervention may allow a GBED foal to survive for a while, and
some may even show signs of improvement before deteriorating again. Others
might initially experience respiratory distress, collapse from hypoglycemia,
seizures, then sudden death. Even with the best care, most GBED foals will not
survive longer than eight weeks. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
James Mickelson, PhD, Professor of
Biochemistry and Genetics, University of Minnesota College of Veterinary
Medicine, notes, “The most common result of GBED is mid-late term abortion, and
not the weak foals that people note and try to treat. Thus, a large percent of
the GBED problem is going unrecognized and unreported.”</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">Breakthroughs/Where We Are Today:</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">It was Dr. Mickelson and Dr. Stephanie Valberg, also at the University
of Minnesota, who first identified this deficiency and developed a test to
detect the defective gene in 2004. However, it </span>is now believed that GBED
has been causing significant fetal and neonatal losses among stock horses for
decades.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is therefore recommended
that foal owners try to identify a GBED foal as soon as possible to limit the
financial and emotional investment involved in trying to save a foal that is
terminally ill. Because it can be difficult to diagnose GBED clinically,
suspicious foals (alive or stillborn) should be diagnosed through genetic
testing, which is available through the Veterinary Genetics Lab at UC Davis
using mane or tail hairs with intact roots, or samples of fetal liver tissue.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>What the Future Holds:</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Identifying GBED foals will also help breeders make decisions
about continuing to breed carriers of the disease. If a GBED foal has been
produced and they choose to rebreed the same mare to the same stallion, they
have a 1 in 4 chance of producing another doomed foal. A DNA test is also
available to determine whether a horse is a carrier of the deadly disease or
not. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
Unfortunately, the horse community
is not availing itself of testing for GBED as much as researchers hoped they
would when they first began offering the test. Says Dr. Penedo, “There is less
interest in testing horses for GBED than for HERDA,” she says, “and definitely
less than for HYPP. It’s difficult to say why there hasn’t been as much interest
generated, as there is no treatment and the disease is inevitably fatal, if the
foal is even born alive.” If people don’t test their horses, foals will
inevitably continue to be lost.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>The Disease: Severe Combined Immunodeficiency (SCID)</b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">
SCID is a deadly genetic disease that affects
primarily Arabian horses and part-bred Arabians. Like people with the “bubble
boy” condition, SCID foals are born without a functioning immune system. <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.5pt;">The
immune system has two major defense systems: the B-lymphocytes which produce
antibodies, and the T-lymphocytes which are responsible for cell-mediated
immunity. The SCID defect, or mutation, results in an inability to produce
either kind of lymphocytes. Foals with this condition therefore have an
enhanced susceptibility to infection and generally first show signs of disease
between two days and eight weeks of age. Clinical diagnosis of the disease is
generally difficult because the symptoms, such as raised temperature,
respiratory complications and diarrhea, are typical of new-born foals with a
range of infections. Currently, it is estimated that 28% of Arabian horses are
carriers of SCID.</span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><b><span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.5pt;">Why
You Need to Know About it:</span></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.5pt;">The sad reality is that SCID affected foals always die
within the first six months of life, regardless of the level of veterinary care
provided. Because the foal may not be identified as suffering from SCID, owners
often make great emotional and financial investments in trying to save the
foal. As this can go on for some time, it is particularly distressing.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.5pt;">Because the gene that causes SCID is recessive, adult
horses may be carriers of the gene, but will not be affected by it themselves.
Owners of Arabian and part-bred Arabian horses who are considering breeding
their animals need to be aware of this disease and the implications of breeding
a carrier animal.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><b><span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.5pt;">Research
History and Breakthroughs:</span></b></span><span class="apple-style-span"><b><span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"></span></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">The
Arabian horse community first became aware of SCID in the 1970s, but at that
time, it was extremely difficult to definitively identify carriers. Recalls
chair of the Arabian Horse Association’s task force on genetic diseases, </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 9.0pt;">“When
the Arabian horse community was faced with SCID back in the 1970s and 1980s, it
responded with the formation of the Fight Off Arabian Lethals (FOAL) Commission
to help educate owners and support genetic disease research. Since that time, a
test for SCID has been developed, over 8,000 horses have been tested, and the
AHA Code of Ethics has addressed SCID disclosure in the Code of Conduct. The
lesson to be learned from this is that focused efforts can be very successful.”</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The genetic
test for SCID was developed by a private biotechnology company in 1998. It is
now licensed to VegGen, a genetics services and research laboratory that was
formed in </span>1995 as a spin-off from the University of Michigan Department
of Human Genetics and the Michigan State University College of Veterinary
Medicine.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="apple-style-span"><b>What the Future Holds:</b></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
It is hoped that the newly
established genetic diseases task force announced earlier this year by the
Arabian Horse Association will help reduce the incidence of not only SCID, but
other heritable diseases that affect Arabians and other horses. Says AHA
President, Lance Walters, “The purpose of the task force is to have a group of
AHA members regularly focused on genetic diseases," said Walters.
"The end result will be an Arabian horse community that is educated about
genetic diseases and knowledgeable about testing and disclosure. The task force
will guide the association in developing policies and educational programs to
educate the Arabian horse community about genetic diseases associated with the
Arabian breed.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
Currently, there are no regulations
requiring testing of Arabian horses for SCID, and even those who do test their
breeding stock do not always disclose the results for fear of their animals
being ‘boycotted’. There is quite a bit of controversy over whether or not
outstanding individuals who are also carriers should be allowed to breed, with
heated opinions on both sides. Some feel it is necessary to breed them – albeit
carefully – in order to preserve desirable characteristics. Others feel that
the only way to rid the gene pool of this devastating disease is to avoid
breeding carrier animals altogether. For now, it remains an individual
decision.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>The Disease: Overo Lethal White Syndrome (OLWS)</b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span">OLWS
is an inevitably fatal recessive disease that affects Paint horses and other
breeds that have Paint blood in them. Though the genetic defect is commonly
associated with a certain type of overo coat pattern, the defect has in fact
been found in</span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 9.0pt;"> overos, tobianos, toveros, solid-colored horses, crop-out
Quarter Horses and pintos.</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In
terms of breeds, it has been found in</span><span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 9.0pt;"> Paints, Miniature Horses, half-Arabians, Thoroughbreds, and
cropout Quarter Horses.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>OLWS foals are born completely white (or
occasionally with small black areas) and suffer from an improperly developed
intestinal tract caused by a failure of the embryonic cells that form parts of
the gastrointestinal system. In most cases, the intestine does not reach the
anal opening, making it impossible for food to pass completely through the
foal's digestive system. Attempts to surgically bypass the problem have,
to date, been unsuccessful. </span><span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="apple-converted-space"><b>Research History and
Breakthroughs:</b></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The genetic defect that causes OLWS was first identified
in 1998 by a team led by </span>Elizabeth M. Santschi, DVM, Dipl. ACVS,
Clinical Associate Professor at the University of Wisconsin's School of
Veterinary Medicine. In 1991, this same team <span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 9.0pt;">more accurately determined the coat patterns associated with
OLWS in newborn foals. Not all overo horses are phenotypically (how they look)
or genotypically (what genes they carry) the same.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are four distinct overo subtypes--frame, calico, sabino,
and splashed white—and not all overos produce affected foals, which left
questions about which subtypes are affected. The 1991 study found that in
heterozygotes (horses with one normal and one defective allele in the
responsible gene), the mutation is usually responsible for a frame overo
pattern. However, since frame overos' characteristic pattern can be altered
through breeding to horses with other patterns, accurate visual inspection of
carriers of the defective gene can be difficult due to blending of the
patterns.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
It was also found that other genes
control both overo and tobiano (the other main type of white patterning
recognized by the American Paint Horse Association) patterning besides the one
that causes OLWS. Therefore, researchers concluded that the DNA-based test is
the only way to be certain whether a white-patterned horse can produce a foal
affected with OLWS.<span class="apple-converted-space"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="apple-converted-space"><b>Why You Need to Know
About it:</b></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><b><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></b>Foals with OLWS die in an agony of colic if they are
not euthanized.</span> <span class="apple-style-span">The foals initially appear
normal except for their unusual white coloring and light eyes. The typically
stand and nurse normally, but will fail to have a bowel movement after nursing
or an enema. Signs of colic or intestinal cramping begin within twelve hours
following birth, caused by the foal's inability to pass feces. In most
cases, the foal will start to show signs of distress within three to five hours
after birth by rolling up on their back repeatedly. They can survive for
up to several days if they are not released humanely from their suffering. This
heartbreaking disease appears quite commonly in the yearly foal crop of Paint
horses.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="apple-style-span"><b>What the Future Holds:</b></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Although the APHA was financially involved in the
research that led to the genetic discoveries related to OLWS, they do not
currently regulate the breeding of OLWS carriers or require disclosure for
registration purposes. Reducing the incidence of this disease or eliminating it
altogether is the responsibility of individual breeders. Testing is highly
recommended for anyone considering breeding their Paint or related horses, as
the gene appears to have a relatively high prevalence.</span><br />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</div>
The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-86408102191600276532012-12-01T17:27:00.000-08:002012-12-01T17:30:19.178-08:00SLOW FEEDING: How getting closer to nature can make your horse -- and your wallet -- happier and healthier<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">In recent years, many people have started to discover that a diet
closer to what horses eat in the wild – mostly forage with little or no grain –
can have great health benefits, including a lower incidence of gastric ulcers
and colic. However, it turns out that <i>how</i> wild horses eat may be just as
important as <i>what </i>they eat. Proponents of “slow feeding” – using feeders
that cause the horse to consume their hay more slowly – believe that this
practice has many benefits – for both horses and owners. <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span></div>
<div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Studies of horses
living in natural environments have revealed that horses generally graze up to
16 hours a day, rarely going without eating for more than a few hours at a
time. As native grasses tend to be relatively sparse, free-living horses often
get only a few blades of grass before they must walk to the next little
mouthful. This type of grazing takes time, providing a small but steady intake
of food – which is exactly what the horse’s digestive system is designed to
handle. “The horse has a very small stomach relative to its body mass and
metabolic needs,” explains Candace Platz, DVM, of Maine Equine Associates in
Gloucester, ME, “and as such it is designed to be a continuous or ‘trickle’
feeder, rather than something like a cow that takes in a lot of food at once
and then goes off and digests it.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
The ‘trickle feeder’ model is
further born out by the fact that the stomach of the horse secretes hydrochloric
acid on a continual basis, regardless of the presence or absence of food.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This works well for an animal designed to
take in small amounts of food almost non-stop. Unfortunately, the acidity of
the stomach can become dangerously high rather quickly in the absence of food,
putting the horse at risk for the development of equine gastric ulcer syndrome
(EGUS) – an extremely common condition in domestic horses.<b> </b>One 2009 study, performed by Nanna Luthersson and
colleagues at the University of Copenhagen, found that a prime risk factor
associated with the development of EGUS is when the interval between forage
feedings is greater than six hours. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
Another factor that can contribute
to high acidity is the way horses secrete saliva. States Platz, “The horse does
not secrete saliva continuously, as we do, but only in response to the
stimulation of chewing. When they chew, they produce bicarbonate saliva that
buffers the acid of the stomach, protecting the stomach lining. However, if the
horse is not chewing for any significant length of time, the acidity of the
stomach is unopposed by any bicarbonate, contributing to excessive acidity.
Thus we are starting to hear experts talk about the importance of ‘chew time’
for the horse – the more the better.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
The
common practice of feeding horses large meals twice daily, with long gaps in
between, may therefore be problematic. This is even more true for horses with
metabolic disorders such as insulin resistance and Cushing’s. While it is
generally known that such horses should not be given feeds with a high starch
or sugar content, it is less well known that even hay can cause significant
fluctuations in levels of glucose, insulin and leptin when fed in large meals separated by long periods of
time. “Hay is
essentially ‘grass jerky’,” says Eleanor Kellon, VMD, an equine nutritional
specialist with a particular interest in metabolic disorders. As she explains,
“Hay is a much more nutrient dense food than fresh grass because most of the
water has been removed. When horses go for a long time without eating and then
get fed a big meal of hay, this causes insulin ‘spikes’ – the same<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"> </span>phenomenon that has been
documented when humans eat breakfast. This is not natural for any horse, but
when a horse has a metabolic disorder, you especially want to try to avoid such
peaks and valleys, as they may exacerbate the condition.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
Kellon points to the work of Joshua Cartmill, PhD, of
Louisiana State University, whose study on leptin levels in horses documented
how different feeding regimens can affect not only leptin – a hormone important
in regulating hunger and body condition – but glucose and insulin as well.
Meal-fed horses demonstrated the greatest fluctuations, while horses given
continual access to hay “had low and constant concentrations of glucose, insulin, and
leptin, with no apparent fluctuations”.<span style="color: #993300;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
With these facts in hand, it
becomes evident that feeding large meals 2-3 times daily is not ideally suited
to the physiology of the horse. However, the reality is that many of us don’t
have access to unlimited, year-round pasture, and feeding many small portions
of hay spread out over 24 hours is generally impractical. Providing free-choice
hay may be a workable option for horses that don’t put on excessive weight, but
it is a risky practice for those that do pack on the pounds, and the wastage
involved can make it expensive.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
Proponents of “slow feeding”– the
practice of using restrictive hay feeders designed to extend the amount of time
it takes a horse to eat its hay – believe that they have found a solution.
Ranging in design from simple, small-mesh hay nets to elaborately constructed
feeding boxes, restrictive hay feeders or “slow feeders” are becoming a
must-have for some horse owners, who credit them with improving the mental and
physical well-being of their horses. Some creative people design and build
their own slow feeders, but a growing number of ready-made products are
available for sale, as well.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
One place to get a good overview of
different kinds of slow feeders, both DIY and store bought, is JoAnn Johnson’s
“wiki” website: paddockparadise.wetpaint.com. “I first became intrigued with
the idea of slow feeding about 15 years ago,” says Johnson, “but it wasn’t
until 2006 that we were <span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">able
to get set up for keeping our own horses at home and really start trying it. By
2008, I thought I had slow feeding mastered, and I started the website as a way
to share what was working for me.” Other people started contributing their own
ideas for building different kinds of slow feeders, sparking new creativity
with input from people in far flung locals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Says Johnson, “I once thought that further innovation beyond grids or
hay bags was impossible and that the wiki had outlasted its raison d'être.
Then, Cheryl posted her hybrid small mesh hay net/barrel slow feeder
concept -- it had hard sides AND mesh. That's when I realized that the
ideas bounced around there will continue to help build a better slow feeder.
I've certainly been humbled and constantly inspired by ideas contributed
to the wiki from around the globe.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">What all slow feeders have in common, whether home made or
store bought, is that they use some kind of netting, grid or holes to restrict
the horse’s access to the hay. The openings must be large enough to allow the
horse to extract some hay, but small enough so that the horse can only pull out
a few strands at a time. The openings in traditional feeders are typically much
to large for this purpose. Regular hay nets, for example, have openings that
may stretch to 6” or wider when the net is full, while the openings on a small
mesh hay net used for slow feeding will generally be 1-2”. The smaller the
holes, the greater the level of “challenge” for the horse, and the longer it
takes for the horse to eat the hay.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">While the benefits of consuming hay more slowly have not
been extensively studied, the anecdotal evidence is overwhelmingly positive,
and some veterinarians are reporting quantifiable improvements in conditions
such as gastric ulcers and in rates of colic among their clients who implement slow
feeding.</span> One such vet is Fred Beasom, DVM of Tehachapi, CA, who now
recommends slow feeding to all his clients. “This is simply a more natural way
of feeding, keeping food in their stomach all the time vs. gorging them 2-3
times a day like so many people do. Not only are the horses calmer, quieter and
demonstrating fewer vices, but I’m seeing a marked reduction in the incidence
of ulcers – I’d say about 75%. Consuming the hay more slowly also reduces the
likelihood of choke, and it lowers the risk of impaction colic, as well.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
Race horse trainer Matthew Chew has
observed all of these benefits among the horses in his stable at Santa Anita,
CA. Says Chew, “Slow feeding has been great for us. For one thing, ulcers are a
very common problem in racing stables, and we have an intensive program to try
to reduce the incidence of ulcers in our horses. We had a number of measures in
place for years – preventative medications and such – but we still had lots of
horses with ulcers. When we decided to try slow feeding, I had every horse
scoped to get a baseline, then we went back and scoped them again after six
months of using the small mesh hay nets. I was very pleased to find that our
incidences were greatly reduced, and with the horses that had had severe
ulcers, the inflammation was quite a bit less. I think this is because they are
eating more as if they were grazing in a natural process, and the stomach isn’t
sitting empty for any significant period of time.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
Chew has also seen his rate of
impaction colics drop to zero. “Maybe we’re just on a lucky streak, but since
we started using these nets, we haven’t had a single incidence of impaction
colic. In a racing stable, it’s a very controlled environment, but you can’t
watch and monitor everything. Sometimes, a groom will put a horse away that’s a
little bit hot, and that horse goes sucking hay down, taking large bites, and I
think that helps to promote colic because the horse’s body can’t process that
amount of hay that fast, especially if you have a little bit of a warm belly
because they were put in a little soon or something agitated them in their
stalls. I don’t think you’re ever going to completely get rid of the twisted
gut colics – those just happen. But as far as the impactions, I definitely
think slow feeding helps to prevent that.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
“Another thing I like is that the
horses are chewing and digesting their hay better, so we’re not seeing
incidences of choke, and there is also more consistency in their manure. You
can see that the bits of hay in it are finer, and the manure is well-formed
with a lot less diarrhea. Add to this the fact that we now have almost no
wastage, whereas before we were seeing about 10-15% of our hay lost to wastage.
I hate to sound like a commercial for the darn things, but this one change has
made a big difference.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
What is particularly interesting in
Chew’s case is that his race horses always had free-choice access to hay
whenever they were in their stalls, so one would think the horses would have
been “grazing” whenever they wanted to already, and therefore, there would be
no real added benefits from slow feeding. According to Chew, however,
free-choice does not have the same results as slow feeding. As he explains, “A
lot of times what would happen in the past is that a horse would go into the
stall, particularly after training, and they would eat quite rapidly. When they
suck down the hay like that, eating large bites of hay, and they would get
fuller quicker. Once they got full they would back off, and then they would
either sleep or just stand in the back of their stall. With the slow feeders,
it forces them to eat at a slower pace, so it takes longer for them to get full
and they never really ever do get totally full, so they’re constantly picking
at the hay, and that’s really they way they were designed to eat. It even helps
with the picky eaters, because it seems to keep them more interested. Of course
this is all just my opinion, but I can tell you that my neighbor, racing hall
of famer Richard Mandella, has seen the results I’m getting, and he’s now using
the nets for a bunch of his horses, too.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
Another population that may benefit
from slow feeding is senior horses. Cindy Daigre runs a retirement home for
senior horses in TN, and finds that the practice of slow feeding reduces
quidding, greatly reduces the incidence of colic and ulcers, and helps the
older horses stay in better weight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As
she explains, “<span style="color: black;">The reason that the nets help with
quidding<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span>is that the horses are
taking much smaller mouthfuls at a time – often only a few strands of
hay. That leads to proper chewing and improved digestion and absorption,
which in turn reduces so many of the problems often associated with senior
horses.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
Slow feeding also appears to help
horses that exhibit stereotypic behaviors, commonly known as stable vices.
Beasom has observed a reduction or in some cases elimination of stable vices in
horses put on a slow feeding program, and other vets concur. States Platz, “We
are learning that intermittent feeding may be at least partly responsible for
stable vices (a term I don’t like because it tends to blame the victim). Wood
chewing, wind-sucking, weaving, and so on – can all be caused or exacerbated by
the horse only having food for very short periods during the day. The horse is
programmed by nature to exhibit certain behaviors, and one of those major
behaviors is chronic eating. You take that away from them, they are going to do
something with that mouth – and that’s often something you don’t want and
that’s not good for them. Give that back to them, and you’re likely to see a
reduction in those negative behaviors.” </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
Elizabeth Carr, DVM, PhD, Dipl.
ACVIM, Dipl. ACVECC, of the College of Veterinary Medicine at Michigan State
University, agrees that slow feeding is likely to be beneficial in numerous
ways. As she explains, “I like the slow feeding concept because it more closely
mimics natural grazing, and it gives the horses something to do for a longer
period of time. I think the psychological benefits of that are obvious, because
eating is what horses like to do. Another good aspect of using slow feeders is
that they may make group feeding easier. If you have to group feed with loose
hay, you sometimes get one horse who inhales it all and then the skinny horse
doesn’t get enough food. Using slow feeders kind of evens it up, forcing the
easy keeper to eat more slowly and giving the other ones more of a chance to
have adequate access.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
Carr also recognizes that slow
feeders can make life easier for the owners, as well. “I’m just like any other
modern horse owner – I try to feed my horses four to five times a day, but
there are days when I can’t and I feel bad about that. In that respect it’s a
huge benefit, because you can make those two or three meals last 12 hours –
that’s awesome. If you are reducing the time gaps between meals, I think that’s
a real positive. There doesn’t seem to be a “con” to using slow feeders, other
than buying them or making them.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
Still, Carr cautions that some
claims made about slow feeding have not been researched and that anecdotal
evidence is not definitive. “Hay, in general, takes a long time to be
digested,” she says, “so in terms of protecting the horse’s digestive health,
I’m not sure it makes a huge difference if an amount of hay is consumed in say,
one hour vs. three. When we scope horses’ stomachs, we tell people to take them
off food for about 18 hours at least so that our view won’t obstructed by hay.
Normally, even after 12 hours of inappetence, I’ll still see a hay ball –
small, but there – in the ventral portion of the stomach. By that time it’s not
big enough to protect the upper part of the stomach that is more sensitive to
acid, but it does show how long it takes for hay to clear the stomach.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In general, I agree that having a horse eat
more slowly over a longer period is a good idea, but what I can’t say is
whether that would mean there is a significantly larger amount that is
available to protect the upper portion of the stomach for a longer period of
time.”</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">
Louise Husted, DVM, PhD,
an Assistant Professor at the University of Copenhagen who studies gastric
ulcers in horses, believes that any extension of the period a horse spends
chewing its hay is likely beneficial. However, she agrees that more work needs
to be done in this area. “In summary,” she says, “the time spent chewing
roughage is time spent buffering the acidic environment in the stomach. Longer
seems intuitively better in order to prevent gastric ulcers, but this is still
just theory.<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span>What we do know is
that when the gastric acid comes into contact with the stomach mucosa near the
region where ulcers are most often found (margo plicatus), this predisposes
horses to develop ulcers or at least erosions. This has a certain time
component to it, as it has been demonstrated in vitro that the mucosa does not
become damaged if the time frame is less than a few hours. </div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">
“The logical thing would
then be to avoid the gastric acid coming into contact with the mucosa
completely. Measuring the pH in the region reveals that when the stomach
contains feed material based on roughage (for example hay), then pH during most
of the day and evening will be around 7-8. During these circumstances,
development of mucosal erosions or ulcers are not favored. Hence, making sure
that the equine stomach contains roughage material most of the time would seem
like a favorable factor against ulcer development. This could be achieved
either by feeding small amounts of roughage feed throughout the day and night.
Alternatively, one could look at how the feed could last the longest, as is
accomplished with slow feeders.”</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
If you are interested in trying a
slow feeder for your own horses, it is also important to recognize that not all
horses have the same nutritional requirements, so you need to take their
individual needs into account when selecting a feeder and planning a program.
“I can’t let my horse have free access to hay, even in a slow feeder,” says
horse owner Jennifer Franklin, from Langley, BC. “My horse is insulin
resistant,” she explains, “and even on hay that would make other horses get
ribby, he gets fat if he gets too much. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
“I tried free-choice feeding from
one of those very large, small-hole hay nets, but he started to put on too much
weight. I had been told to try it for a few weeks, that he would eventually
‘self-regulate’ once he realized that the food was never going to run out, but
that didn’t happen. And, since that particular net only works well if you keep
hay in it at all times, my horse ended up chewing big holes in it when I tried
putting him back on rationed amounts of hay and it would start to run out.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
The solution for Franklin has been
to find another slow feeder that cannot be easily damaged, even when the horse
is going after the last few stems of hay. “There are so many slow feeders on
the market now, and for me it was a process of trial and error until I found
which one worked best for me. I still can’t give my horse free access to hay,
but at least the hay he does get now lasts for hours, instead of getting
hoovered up in minutes.” </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
As for people who worry that loading
a slow feeder will take more time and effort than simply throwing a couple of
flakes on the floor, Franklin says, “Yeah, it probably takes me a whole extra
minute or two to load the feeders, but overall it actually saves me a lot of
time. I can now do fewer feedings because each feeding lasts so much longer,
and I’m also not spending time raking up wasted hay because it’s not getting
thrown all over the place and walked on. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
“However, I want to say that even
if it wasn’t saving me time and hay, I would still do it because the health
benefits are enormous and to me, quite obvious. Specifically, before I started
using the slow feeders, my horse colicked four times, and he hasn’t colicked
once since we started slow feeding. Of course that’s just ‘anecdotal evidence’,
but I’m convinced that his gut is functioning better and feeling better because
he has food going through it in smaller amounts over a longer period of time.
That alone is worth the price of the feeder and any extra time or effort it
could take!”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
Mike Lane, a horse owner from
Redding, CA, doesn’t have horses with metabolic problems, but he is also
convinced that slow feeding is the way to go. “I was feeding a well-balanced,
properly supplemented diet three times a day,” Lane says, “but my horses were
obviously bored and hungry in between. They were chewing wood, chewing trees,
and they would practically inhale their food when they got it. It was also
difficult for me, because I had to hire someone to do their lunch feed, and I
was tied to the other two feedings every single day. Then someone told me about
the idea of slow feeding, and a big old light bulb went on in my head.” </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
Lane discovered Johnson’s wiki
website and tried out a couple of home-made designs before deciding to purchase
some small mesh hay nets. “I tried a few different kinds of nets,” he states,
“but the one I’m using now can hold a huge amount of hay, and it also really
slows the horses down. I can now load the nets up once a day, and there is
still some left when I go to feed the next day. The horses always have hay in
front of them, and you can just see how much more content they are. No more
wood or tree chewing, their weight is good, and no more anxiety around feeding
time.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
Another benefit Lane has noticed is
far less hay wastage. As he says, “Before I started using slow feeders, I was
throwing away a significant amount of hay. My guys seemed to trample and mess
on as much as they ate – it was like watching dollar bills being ground into
the muck. I had tried free feeding, and that was even worse because they would
pick through the bales and leave all the stems. Now, with the slow feeders,
there is practically zero wastage. The horses can only pull out a small
mouthful at a time, which they then chew and swallow. Some fine bits do fall on
the ground, but I put a rubber mat under the net and the horses clean that up
every few minutes, so I have almost nothing going into the wheelbarrow – it’s
all going into the horse!”</div>
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One further benefit has been a
reduction in the dust being inhaled by Lane’s horses. “One of my horses is
sensitive to dust,” says Lane, “and whenever he would break apart a flake or
stick his nose in a pile, he would always sneeze or cough a couple of times. I
used to water his hay to try to keep the dust down – when I had time. I’ve been
very happy to see that when he eats out of the slow feeders, he doesn’t sneeze
or cough at all. I think it’s because his nose never gets shoved into the hay,
so what dust does get created by pulling the hay out of the net just disperses
into the air, away from his nose. I had heard that slow feeders were better for
the horse’s gut and could save you money, but this was a bonus I didn’t know
would happen.”</div>
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Lane recently added another
slow-feeding tactic – a feed-dispensing “toy” that helps keep his horses busy
and interested while helping to encourage movement. “The only thing that isn’t
great about my horses eating from the nets is that they pretty much just stand
there, because the food is in one place. I wanted to get them to move around a
bit more, so I got a couple of these toy things and I put little hay cubes and
treats in there, and the horses push and roll these things all over the place
to get the stuff out. I like to see them moving, and I think they actually find
the toys fun. Overall, I really think my horses are happier now, and hey, I can
head out for dinner and a movie and not worry about getting home in time to
feed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I just don’t see a down side to
slow feeding at all.”</div>
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Platz agrees. “Between the savings
of money from not wasting hay and all the physical and psychological benefits
to the horse,” she says, “to me it’s such a no-brainer. I used to go out a lot
at night to check my horses and re-feed to make sure they had<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>food in front of them. And now, we just fill
their nets – I have two per horse of the ones I use – and that takes them
through until morning and they still have hay left. That amount of hay would
not have lasted them before. They would have picked through it, walked on it,
made a mess of it and left over the ruined hay – and then they would have stood
there hungry. Honestly, unless you have your horses on 24-7 pasture or you’re
okay with them wasting a ton of hay with regular free-choice feeding, I can’t
see why anyone wouldn’t switch to slow feeding.”</div>
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If you would like more information
on slow feeding, check out: <a href="http://paddockparadise.wetpaint.com/page/Slow+Feeders">http://paddockparadise.wetpaint.com/page/Slow+Feeders</a>
where you will find discussions, photographs and ideas for many different types
of home made slow feeders, as well as links to a variety of commercially
available feeders.</div>
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<b>Sidebar: One horse owner talks about her DIY slow feeders</b></div>
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B. Bolliger of Brentwood, CA, currently uses a combination
of commercially available small mesh hay nets and several slow feeders she
built herself. </div>
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<br /></div>
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“In 2008 I received a flyer about a
clinic given by Swedish Hoof School owner, Ove Lind, and heard raves about
it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I talked to one woman who had
attended the previous year and she mentioned he would cover slow feeders, and
she in fact already had built one and would give me more information at the
clinic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I attended, and found out many
of the reasons why barefoot feet, slow feeding, low sugar diets, and lots of exercise
are so good for horses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was so
completely sold on the slow feeder concept that I came home and had one built
immediately.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was exactly what I had
wanted to do for a long time!</div>
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“For the first horizontal feeder I
used one of the 85 or 110 gallon water tubs, with a 2”x 2” grid to go on top of
the hay, cut to fit the tub/<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>purchased the grid from a local salvage
yard.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I contacted a government agency
about testing for lead, and was told that I could purchase a test kit at a
local hardware store, so I tested any painted metal used in the feeders for
lead before using.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I eventually had to
put rope and snaps on the grid to hold it in as the youngest horse tipped it up
with his feet, and without something to hold the grid in, the hay dumps out, which
is what he wants!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Holes are drilled in
the tub just above ground level, one on each side, then I use thin rope through
the hole to the inside, and one-handed bull snap tied to each rope to fasten to
the grid, and then these neat fasteners secured high up on the outside that
secure the rope whatever length is needed when it is pulled tight.</div>
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“The second and third feeders are
also horizontal feeders, and were made of ¾” plywood, in the shape of a box—the
first 2’x4’, using one sheet of plywood.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>One-inch holes were drilled near the four corners for fines and dust to
be swept out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The grid was easier to
fit in something with square corners rather than the curved tub.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since the horses learned to get their heads
beneath the grid to get to the food and eat too fast, I eventually put a piece
of 4” ABS at each end, with 2 bolts on each one so they didn’t turn, and so
that the bolts stick out to the outside of the box.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One end was bolted , and the other secured with wing nuts and a
large area washer to keep in place.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To
add hay, I just take off the wing nut, remove the ABS, lift up the grid, and
add the hay, and replace the ABS.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since
my creative horses were also dumping these down, I secured them to the rubber
water tubs, and that took care of the problem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I also tie them to the side of the three-sided shelter so they can’t
move them all over the place.</div>
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“The third feeder was the vertical
type, with the grid at the front of the feeder, a hinged lid on the top for
filling, and a smooth “slide” at a 45-degree angle inside the box to make the
hay slide to the bottom, where the horses eat it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They love this one, and I have never had a problem with hay
getting caught.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is by far the
easiest to fill as well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The grid for
the front came with four edges, as a frame, so the box was made to fit the
grid.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The grid openings are a little
larger than 2”x2”, but it works fine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The grid is fastened onto the front of the box by sliding it onto
protruding bolts, one on each side, through holes drilled in the frame.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are fastened with a wing nut on each
side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The frame is notched at the
bottom and fits over a round head bolt on the bottom of the box..<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is very easy to get the grid off and on,
but that is not necessary very often.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The top is slanted so that rain water would run off toward the back if
it is used outside. It was also primed and painted so can be used for outdoor
feeding.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The top is closed securely
with a gate-type hinge and snap to keep the clever horses from opening the top
and eating out of there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since the
young horse has a Mustang frame of mind, and is very clever, it is also tied to
the wall, and even more, has a turnbuckle system and a small piece of 2x4 wood
on each side to keep it from being picked up and moved.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One thing about feeders, the horses are very
determined, and it is sometimes a laughable challenge to keep one step ahead of
them—actually, it is more like letting them get ONLY one step ahead!”</div>
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</h1>
<h1>
Sidebar: Slow Feeders Put to the Test</h1>
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Intrigued by the idea of slow feeders, author Susan
Kauffmann decided to try a few on her own horses to get a sense of how well
they worked, and just how much they slowed the horses down.</div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Knowing
about the potential detriments of traditional feeding practices but struggling
to manage multiple feedings a day, I loved the idea of slow feeders. I tested
three, using seven pounds of hay fed loose on a ground mat as a “control”. It
took each of my horses about 1 hour, 45 minutes to finish their seven pound
control portion on the mat. Here are the results I got with the various
feeders, after allowing for a “learning curve” period for the horses:</div>
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<b>Feeder</b>: “The Grazer”
(www.doublel.com/equinedivision/haygrazer.html)</div>
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<b>Description:</b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Basically a metal box with a spring-loaded tray that lifts the hay up
against a metal grate. </div>
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<b>Price: </b>As low as $129.99 U.S. online</div>
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<b>Time to eat 7 lbs. hay: </b>2 hours, 30 minutes (+ 45
minutes)</div>
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<b>Learning curve: </b>Both of my horses figured out how to
eat from this feeder within a few minutes.</div>
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<b>Notes: </b>Sturdy construction – held up to my youngster
bashing it repeatedly with his enormous hooves…I think he thought it was a
drum. We found that hay fines would build up quickly under the unit, so we put
our up on blocks to make it easy to reach under and clean them. Took me a while
to get the hang of loading them; found it helpful to nail up a bungee to hold
the top grate up while pressing the hay down. Very little wastage of hay. Can
hold up to about three flakes at a time.</div>
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<br /></div>
<h1>
Feeder: <span style="font-weight: normal;">“Freedom Feeder”
(freedomfeeder.com)</span></h1>
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<b>Description: </b>Small mesh hay net made of 250 lb. test
woven 3 mm nylon twine.</div>
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<b>Price: </b>$40.00 U.S. from manufacturer; has Canadian
distributor: Lisa Reid, Edmonton, lisasss1971@yahoo.com</div>
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<b>Time to eat 7 lbs. hay: </b>3 hours, 45 minutes (+ 2
hours)</div>
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<b>Learning curve: </b>It was probably a few days before the
horses had really figured out how to get the hay out in a comfortable way. Best
to follow manufacturer’s instructions when introducing and using these nets.</div>
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<b>Notes: </b>Slowest of the three test feeders. Designed to
have hay in them at all times. Horses did fine with them like that, but chewed
holes in the nets if the hay was allowed to run out. Can hold an entire 100 lb.
square bale, if you want them to. Can be hung from a fence, tree, etc. If you
want to keep hay in front of your horses at all times, this net is great – but
don’t let it run out.</div>
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<b>Feeder: </b>“The Nibblenet” (www.thinaircanvas.com)</div>
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<b>Description: </b>Webbing hay net, comes in various sizes
and styles; custom orders available.</div>
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<b>Price: </b>I chose the largest “Double Nibble” (has
webbing on both sides), with 1.5” holes. Cost $61.99 U.S. Smaller sizes cost
less.</div>
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<b>Time to eat 7 lbs. hay: </b>3 hours, 15 minutes (+ 1.5
hours)</div>
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<b>Learning curve: </b>Very little, but my horses had
already learned to eat from the Freedom Feeder nets.</div>
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<b>Notes: </b>Very durable, easy to load. Must have a wall
behind them for the horses to push against or it too difficult for them to get
the hay out. I can get up to four flakes off a 100 lb. bale in each. Choose the
1.5” openings (or smaller…they are now coming out with a 1.25” option), as the
2” openings do not slow most horses down enough. The different sizes and styles
provide great options for trailering, ponies, etc.</div>
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<div class="MsoTitle">
PARTIAL LIST OF SLOW FEEDERS</div>
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<b>SMALL MESH HAY NETS:</b></div>
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<b>Excellent chart: </b><a href="http://paddockparadise.wetpaint.com/page/Hay+Net+Comparison+Chart">http://paddockparadise.wetpaint.com/page/Hay+Net+Comparison+Chart</a></div>
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<b>1. Nibblenet: </b><a href="http://www.thinaircanvas.com/nibblenet/nibblenetframe.htm">http://www.thinaircanvas.com/nibblenet/nibblenetframe.htm</a></div>
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<b><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></b>Features:
Many sizes available with choice of hole size, sturdy construction of nylon
webbing, can be attached to wall or ground. Square sides allow for ease of
loading and larger amount of hay in the net.</div>
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<b>2. Freedom Feeder: </b><a href="http://www.freedomfeeder.com/">http://www.freedomfeeder.com/</a></div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Features:
small-mesh hay net comes in three sizes – one large enough to hold an entire
100 lb. bale of hay. Really slows hay comsumption very well.</div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Comments:
If hay is allowed to run out, horses are more likely to chew holes through this
net. Made sores on the lips of my horses because of this, as I can’t allow
Gryph to free feed, even with a net.</div>
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<b>3. Cinch Net: </b><a href="http://cinchchix.com/the-cinch-products.html">http://cinchchix.com/the-cinch-products.html</a></div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Features:
small-mesh hay net that comes in various sizes – one large enough for use with
a round bale.</div>
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<b>4. Busy Horse Feeders: </b><a href="http://www.busyhorse.com/">http://www.busyhorse.com/</a></div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Features:
several sizes available with choice of hole size, sturdy nylon-webbing
construction.</div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Comments:
Flat design (as compared to Nibblenet) would make it harder to load and not
hold as much hay as a comparably sized Nibblenet.</div>
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<b>5. Swedish Hoof School nets: </b><a href="http://caisasshop.ebutiken.nu/">http://caisasshop.ebutiken.nu/</a> </div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Features:
several sizes available, tape-sewed edges and poly material may be more durable
than nylon nets.</div>
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<b>BARREL TYPE:</b></div>
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<b>1. Slow Down ® Hay Feeder: </b><a href="http://www.slowdownhayfeeder.com/content/view/1/1/">http://www.slowdownhayfeeder.com/content/view/1/1/</a></div>
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<b><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></b>Features:
various size hole plates available, plug for soaking/draining, D-rings for wall
and/or pipe panel attachment. </div>
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Comment: Plate does not spin –
maybe hard for horse to get some of the hay? VERY pricy!</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>2. Porta-Grazer: </b><a href="http://www.porta-grazer.com/">http://www.porta-grazer.com/</a></div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Features:
various size holes in restrictor pan, plug for soaking/draining, optional lid
can also hold water (7.5 gallons). Restrictor pan can spin in any direction,
possibly making it easier for horse to get at all the hay.</div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Comment:
Not sure if/how it attaches to wall/fence. Fairly pricy.</div>
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<b>HARD SIDED:</b></div>
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<b>1. The Grazer: </b><a href="http://www.doublel.com/haygrazer.html">http://www.doublel.com/haygrazer.html</a></div>
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<b><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></b>Features:
sturdy metal construction, spring-loaded tray to lift hay up to grate.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Comments:
Does not hold much hay (only up to 3 flakes, in my experience), does not slow
the horses down all that much. Small bits of hay build up under unit – hard to
clean under if you don’t put it up on blocks.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>2. The Natural Feeder: </b><a href="http://thenaturalfeeder.com/">http://thenaturalfeeder.com/</a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>3.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Slow
Grazer:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></b><a href="http://www.grazingbox.com/">http://www.grazingbox.com/</a></div>
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<b>SLOW-FEEDING TOYS:</b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>1. The Nose-It: </b><a href="http://www.nose-it.com/">http://www.nose-it.com/</a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>2. Amazing Graze:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></b><a href="http://www.petvetsupply.com/equhhpi010.html">http://www.petvetsupply.com/equhhpi010.html</a> </div>
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The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-12240123494876551242012-10-25T11:33:00.001-07:002013-05-13T18:56:41.839-07:00Best Bet Bit for Babies?I was recently on a popular horse forum and a young woman asked about what bits people would recommend for her two year old. He was being very mouthy with the snaffle bit she was using and she was concerned. She was wondering if she should try a curb bit. Several "red flags" flew up in my mind upon reading this post, so I decided to answer. My first comment was that a two year old is too young to be ridden, and I quoted Dr. Deb Bennett on how a horse's skeleton matures. Fortunately, the young woman responded that she is not riding the horse, just doing ground work and wanting him to get used to a bit at this point. This was my reply:<br />
<br />
"Glad to hear this -- smart girl! Always a good idea to have a
horse's teeth checked before starting bitting. When it is confirmed that the teeth are okay, what we do with the babies
is get a very soft, flexible, rubber, mullen mouth snaffle (no joint
in the middle).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNcQodM1AYglMUZo9seY9FSmyQtLyud_V6FWjwXGqkuCSUBVZxVhYcv47uZ5WfYxYqIBDcGAOIvDxkaR-EjAv1ASSBWJX1Fu09hbFIDTVDen3oGN7ON2X1H2KFn9BW6MZUTAci4YL6nTws/s1600/rubber+mullen+mouth+dee+bit+%23121040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNcQodM1AYglMUZo9seY9FSmyQtLyud_V6FWjwXGqkuCSUBVZxVhYcv47uZ5WfYxYqIBDcGAOIvDxkaR-EjAv1ASSBWJX1Fu09hbFIDTVDen3oGN7ON2X1H2KFn9BW6MZUTAci4YL6nTws/s320/rubber+mullen+mouth+dee+bit+%23121040.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
These bits are absolutely useless for riding; their sole purpose is to
get the baby used to having a bit in his mouth. The soft rubber INVITES
chewing and mouthing, which is absolutely normal behavior for a baby
first experiencing the bit. Once they quiet down because it's just not a
new thing anymore, we move on to a jointed snaffle, usually a D-ring
because the straight sides against the horse's face help when you are
teaching them to turn (the bit won't slide through the mouth like an
O-ring tends to). <br />
<br />
The bits I personally prefer are the KK
Sprenger Ultra bits. They have two joints and a softly rounded lozenge
in the middle (not a flat piece like a French link, which can be harsh
on the tongue). The double jointed bits seem to be accepted more easily
by a majority of horses -- there are always exceptions who prefer a
single joint, but I'd say about 95% of the horses I've worked with
prefer the double jointed bits. These bits put less pressure on the
sensitive (and easily damaged) bars of the jaw, and more on the strong,
flexible tongue. They allow great subtlety of communication, as the
sides are more independent of one another. They also do not have the
"nutcracker" effect of popping up and hitting the horse in the palate --
a real problem for many horses and the cause of much head-tossing and
mouth-gaping.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxfJglnYniyfFATzNQqqUC4ZVhA_LJyFHp-dLkxc9RTK99eDNkUwXZBPArdppU6YbP_I0_6RNaazTGmdlM6rHiem4wQfjqsZmgJmk-zJIEuCrrO4ww_ud8srbf87o-PlIOYKznt6tYcZ5C/s1600/Sprenger+D+ring.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxfJglnYniyfFATzNQqqUC4ZVhA_LJyFHp-dLkxc9RTK99eDNkUwXZBPArdppU6YbP_I0_6RNaazTGmdlM6rHiem4wQfjqsZmgJmk-zJIEuCrrO4ww_ud8srbf87o-PlIOYKznt6tYcZ5C/s320/Sprenger+D+ring.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
I recently asked Dr. Hilary Clayton (top researcher
of all things related to riding!) at MSU whether she thought the single
jointed bits or double jointed bits were more comfortable for the
horse, and it was her opinion that the double jointed bits were more
comfortable based on their function and the physiology of the mouth.<br />
<br />
The
KK Sprenger bits are pricey, no doubt about that. But they are totally
worth it, in my experience. The craftsmanship is amazing -- there are no
gaps to pinch in the swivel parts at the corners of the mouth, and the
metals used are gorgeous and hold up extremely well. Leave it to the
Germans to do something so precise and high quality! <br />
<br />
You will
find many opinions on this topic, but experienced trainers will all tell
you that you definitely do NOT go to any kind of leverage bit (curb or
otherwise) on a baby. The horse has to be trained to understand and
accept the bit first before you can move on to leverage bits, if you
desire to do so. That's why you see the young horse classes called
"snaffle bit futurities". All those horses are too young to be ridden,
but at least they have them in snaffles!<br />
<br />
I hope this is helpful for you."The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-13511854231902524822012-09-11T17:45:00.000-07:002012-09-11T17:45:16.907-07:00"Da Brim" -- The Must-Have Visor for Sun-Conscious Riders<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="Eq Front Angled" height="300" src="http://dabrim.com/images/products/equestrian/endurance/EE_Angled.jpg?1347409608186" width="400" /><br />
<br />
I recently got my hands on a helmet visor called Da Brim, and I believe this product is a must-have for anyone wanting good sun protection while riding. This light-weight visor attaches easily and securely to just about any riding helmet (there are models for helmets with and without built-in visors), and it stays put. I found out just how well it stays on when I went out riding on a seriously blustery day -- the visor didn't budge, though it did feel like my head wanted to go for a little sail off my neck at times! I am impressed with the overall quality of this product, too: it is tough, well-made (in the USA -- yeah!), and easy to clean. Most importantly, it offers great protection from the sun, and as equestrians as a group show high rates of skin cancer, this is something to take very seriously. I actually feel cooler when I ride in it, as I have my own little portable "shade", and there is no glare getting into my eyes over the top of my sunglasses, either. Da Brim is available in several colors so you fashionistas can coordinate. On days when you don't need it, just pop it off and away you go. Leaves your helmet's vents unobstructed to help keep you cool.<br />
<br />
To read more about Da Brim, check out their website: <a href="http://dabrim.com/html/products/equestrian.htm">http://dabrim.com/html/products/equestrian.htm</a><br />
<br />
or go to <a href="http://actionridertack.com/">ActionRiderTack.com</a> to purchase.The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-79672133634301913952012-05-13T18:46:00.000-07:002013-05-14T17:32:52.723-07:00FLAT OUT: You're going to want these wheelbarrow tires!Okay, I admit it: I'm a paddock princess, wanting my paddock to be so clean and tidy you could eat off the ground. Well, maybe I wouldn't eat off the ground, but I do sometimes throw hay around for the horses to pick at, so they are doing just that. What that means, of course, is manure duty -- lots of it.<br />
<br />
To make this task as easy as possible on my perpetually sore back, I use an electric, three-wheeled cart so I am not lifting the weight of all that poop all the time. Great cart, but the thing comes with horrible, cheaply made tires that are not so cheap to replace. I got tired of shelling out for new ones all the time, so I decided to see if I could find better ones myself. <br />
<br />
Imagine how happy I was to discover Marathon Industries, a company that specializes in flat-free tires! I gave them a call and found them exceptionally nice to deal with -- they really went above and beyond to try to get me just the right tires for my odd little cart. Sadly, we were only able to fit one of them, as the two main tires have some bizarre drive mechanism on them and the whole thing is just strangely sized. Still, I got the one tire and I'm very happy with it. Since that one takes a lot of abuse, bumping and weight, I can honestly say it has been "put to the test", and it is clearly strong and well made. These flat-free tires also have enough give to them that you don't really notice a difference between them and ordinary tires -- something I had wondered about.<br />
<br />
The people at Marathon have plenty of tires for more normal wheelbarrows and carts, so if you are also sick of repairing flats and buying new tires when the ordinary ones fail, do yourself a favor and get some flat-free ones for your cart or wheelbarrow. You can find them online at: http://www.marathonind.com/<br />
<br />
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<br />The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-36057431717850675112011-11-28T13:21:00.000-08:002015-01-03T12:00:56.568-08:00The Best Dang Rubber Boots on the Planet<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDT72L2jHyIgOaahTtdK5CcBi-3KsrpYsjbr_4srSpjFB7MBDhGOzM9gYVfPaHSXi5hFX-Et5_OLmMp0s86_AYI92aBC4BujtTIgMS3fi7kl3dc7UFfhLKGVNmYcD-CPzRz-ig_JtwymGs/s1600/Quatro+boots.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDT72L2jHyIgOaahTtdK5CcBi-3KsrpYsjbr_4srSpjFB7MBDhGOzM9gYVfPaHSXi5hFX-Et5_OLmMp0s86_AYI92aBC4BujtTIgMS3fi7kl3dc7UFfhLKGVNmYcD-CPzRz-ig_JtwymGs/s400/Quatro+boots.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></div>
I am one of those people who absolutely MUST have serious quality footware. Why? Because my feet have "issues" that cause immediate agony if I put anything on them that doesn't have great support and good cushioning. That has made finding rubber boots for barn chores a real pain -- both literally and figuratively. I used to get Acton boots from Canada, but they are one of the many companies who simply don't make 'em like they used to: where my first pair lasted something like seven years of hard use, my second pair fell apart after one season -- and they were not cheap. What to do? Start hunting for a different brand.<br />
<br />
Little did I know what an international, epic journey this would be! I tried other boots from manufacturers in Canada, England, the U.S., etc., but all of them were either so lacking in support that even adding my custom orthotics wasn't enough, or they were shaped in weird ways that made my foot problems worse. I was getting desperate, to the point that I was almost ready to shell out the bucks for the Acton boots again, even though I knew they would fall apart on me.<br />
<br />
Finally, I stumbled across a posting somewhere in which someone was talking about Quattro boots, from Skellerup of New Zealand. My goodness -- New Zealand! Could it be, I wondered, that the perfect rubber boot had been secretly lurking in that remote little island country? I simply had to find out.<br />
<br />
Well, I got my hands on a pair, and I am here to tell you that these boots are, quite simply, the best dang rubber boots on the planet. Yes, that is only my opinion, but having tried far too many from so many different places, I feel I have some reluctant authority in the matter. Just looking at these boots makes it clear that their designer is clearly someone who has a real understanding of the form and function of a human foot. Then you put them on and immediately feel that they have fantastic support without being stiff. And, if the high-quality insole isn't exactly what your foot needs, you can slip it out and put in your own orthotics, as I did. Can't do that with many others. They also absorb the shock of your step very well, even though the rubber of the sole is quite firm. Not sure how they do it, but they do. The tread is aggressive enough to give you a solid grip on challenging terrain, but the design of the grooves makes mud/manure kick out pretty easily.<br />
<br />
One thing you do need to be aware of with these boots: They fit close around the ankle and are not designed for a wide calf. If you have a wider calf, as I do, you may be able to get away with the shorter boot, which I find plenty tall. I tried the higher one and it was just too tight on me, but the shorter one is much better. It is still a little tight trying to tuck in a thicker pant leg, but I have found a way to make it work. If you have average to thinner legs, this won't be an issue for you at all, but you still might find that the shorter boots are tall enough. I think they are 13", versus the taller ones that are 16".<br />
<br />
The boots do come in various styles -- insulated or non and that sort of thing. I went for the non-insulated, but so far have found that they are plenty warm, perhaps due to the thin neoprene lining on the interior. I think they might get a little toasty in the summer due to the liner and the close fit on my chubby legs, but that's a trade off I'm willing to deal with for the excellent comfort they provide.<br />
<br />
<br />
As for where to buy them, look online, but I was told by the manufacturer that the discounted boots carried by Sierra Trading Post (sierratradingpost.com) are an earlier version, and the newer ones should last 3x longer. I also asked the manufacturer about the fact that these boots, like virtually all the others, are made in China, and I wanted to know if the quality could be counted on. Here is their response:<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt;">"While
many other brands make rubber boots in China (think LaCrosse, Muck,
Bogs, XtraTuff, Servus, etc.), they don’t own the factories that these boots
are made in,
so they can’t control the quality. They may be able to make the boots
look nice, but as you rightly point out what looks good doesn’t necessary
last and that’s what you’re getting with these brands.
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt;">When
we first looked at moving our production to China over 10 years ago we
visited 14 different rubber boot companies but none of them would be
able to manufacture
the boots to the standard that we require which is ultimately what our
users require. We then made the decision that we would invest in our
own factory, with our own staff and keep making quality that our boots.
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Ultimately
yes our boots are made in China but the finished product is something
that myself and our 180 production and technical staff are extremely
proud
off." </span><br />
Yes, I still wish they were made somewhere other than China, but I'm trusting that these boots will prove to be as rugged as they seem. I am absolutely loving mine thus far! Let me know what you think if you get some.<br />
<br />
<br />The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-82655691826020905922011-10-31T12:08:00.000-07:002011-10-31T17:29:16.595-07:00FAVORITE PRODUCTS: "California Trace" mineral supplement<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyMAUL2o-MCfXZKcn9IgayzMcrWayc1Y471A2z8uz5HPnIAey3LOcMoCai0mtLqMvqUDKF0mI4rYx7qO8wRwN-5wdqLcEkTlHCvPgQ5uhYGjsbkc6nPXNI0QoBLEBnpQVGC4y8mHRmV7Nh/s1600/SM+Obie+in+paddock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyMAUL2o-MCfXZKcn9IgayzMcrWayc1Y471A2z8uz5HPnIAey3LOcMoCai0mtLqMvqUDKF0mI4rYx7qO8wRwN-5wdqLcEkTlHCvPgQ5uhYGjsbkc6nPXNI0QoBLEBnpQVGC4y8mHRmV7Nh/s400/SM+Obie+in+paddock.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is what California Trace does for Obie, who is shown <br />
here in his unbathed, unbrushed, au naturel state!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
Many horse owners are overwhelmed when it comes to choosing a mineral supplement for their horses. Some wonder if their horses really need a supplement at all, while others buy several and throw them all into their horse's feed, figuring that if some is good, more must be better. What should a responsible owner really do?<br />
<br />
If you are feeding mainly forage (hay and/or pasture), which is truly best for the vast majority of horses, it is more than likely that you do need some kind of mineral supplement. This is because most hays and grass are deficient in several or more key minerals. Depending on your area, these may include copper, zinc, selenium, or calcium. The flip side of this is that many hays contain excessive amounts of other minerals -- most notably iron -- and these can potentially interfere with the body's ability to use the already short supply of copper, zinc, etc. Some equine nutritionists believe that "iron overload" is a serious issue that should be of concern when looking into supplementation. This may be even more critical if your horse has a metabolic disorder like insulin resistance or Cushing's.<br />
<br />
Unfortunately, almost all commercially available supplements contain additional iron -- the last thing your horse needs in most cases. This is why I was so excited to discover California Trace, a mineral supplement that was specifically designed to balance the common mineral deficiencies in hays grown in Northern California, where I live. Sally Hugg, who makes this product, has an abiding passion for the rather labyrinthine area of equine mineral requirements, and I for one am grateful that she does, because she has created a great product -- <b style="font-style: italic;">with no added iron. </b> Finally, a mineral supplement that has the key stuff my horses need, including vitamins A and E, without the stuff they already have too much of -- hallelujah!<br />
<br />
I am also thankful that this product is quite reasonably priced, and it comes in a variety of sizes to suit your herd -- larger sizes are even more economical. An added bonus is that most horses find California Trace palatable, even though it does not contain sugar, molasses, or other things my insulin resistant gang shouldn't have. Three of my four will eat it right out of my hand -- the one that won't is known to be especially finicky.<br />
<br />
Now, if you don't happen to live in this area, chances are that you can also use California Trace, as many other areas have similar mineral deficiency/overload profiles to ours. The only exception would be if you live in an area with high selenium. Selenium is critical for horse health, but it can be extremely dangerous if the horse gets too much of it. While selenium is deficient in many areas, it is adequate or even excessive in others. If your hay comes from a heavy selenium pocket, you would want to avoid adding any extra into your horse's diet.<br />
<br />
To find out more about this terrific supplement, visit <a href="http://www.californiatrace.com/">www.californiatrace.com</a> .The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-76693126254076278902011-09-28T22:32:00.001-07:002012-02-23T16:02:55.593-08:00COLD WEATHER FEEDING<div class="MsoTitle"><br />
</div><div class="MsoTitle"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #660000;"><b>NOTE: This article originally appeared in a Canadian horse magazine, so all temperatures are given in Celsius.</b></span> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Despite the fact that many of us do not ride our horses much during the winter, we often need to provide them with something extra in the grocery department when the mercury takes a nose dive. However, determining just how much we should feed them and when they really need it is often a bit of a mystery. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"> During cold, wet and windy weather, horses require more energy to maintain their internal body temperature. Just how much energy an individual horse needs depends in part on the environmental conditions, but it is also affected by the horse’s overall body condition and the state of his winter coat. For example, a horse with an insulating layer of fat and a thick coat will conserve energy better than a thin horse with a short coat. While differences of this nature must be taken into consideration, there are some general guidelines to help you gauge when to start forking out the extra grub.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Leaving the Neutral Zone</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">When environmental temperatures are within the horse’s “thermal neutral zone” (10-15 C in dry conditions), the body doesn’t have to do much to regulate heat generation or heat loss. It’s when temperatures drop below the bottom of that neutral zone that the body revs up the chemical engines that produce heat. That tipping point is known as the “critical temperature,” and it is an important part of understanding a horse’s winter feeding requirements. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;"><span style="color: #333333;"> However, the critical temperature may not be the same for each horse, and it is likely to change somewhat from day to day. Experts estimate that the critical temperature at which horses start requiring extra energy lies somewhere between -1 and 15 degrees Celsius, depending on the actual temperature (including wind chill), hair coat, body condition and wetness.</span> Wet conditions raise a horse’s critical temperature by approximately 5-8 degrees C, meaning that he will start getting colder at a higher temperature. Knowing what the critical temperature is for your horse on any given day allows you to estimate the changes in his nutritional requirements. <i>Table 1</i><em><span style="color: #333333;"> </span></em><em><span style="color: #333333; font-style: normal;">illustrates what some critical temperatures might be</span></em>.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center"><table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="width: 387px;"><tbody>
<tr> <td colspan="2" style="padding: 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><strong><span style="color: #333333;">Table 1.</span></strong><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: #333333;"> </span></span><span style="color: #333333;">Estimated Critical Temperature for Horses in Moderate Body Condition<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> </tr>
<tr> <td style="background: #EEEEEE; padding: 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt; width: 40.0%;" width="40%"><div class="MsoNormal"><strong><span style="color: #333333;">Hair Coat</span></strong><span style="color: #333333;"><o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td style="background: #EEEEEE; padding: 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt; width: 60.0%;" width="60%"><div class="MsoNormal"><strong><span style="color: #333333;">Critical Temperature (C)</span></strong><span style="color: #333333;"><o:p></o:p></span></div></td> </tr>
<tr> <td style="padding: 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #333333;">Wet or short<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td style="padding: 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #333333;">15<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> </tr>
<tr> <td style="padding: 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #333333;">Moderate<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td style="padding: 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #333333;">7<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> </tr>
<tr> <td style="padding: 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #333333;">Heavy<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td style="padding: 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt 4.5pt;"><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #333333;">-1<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> </tr>
</tbody></table></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">For each .555 degree C below the critical temperature, your horse’s digestible energy (DE) requirements go up 1%. For example, if you had an 1,100 pound horse in moderate body condition with a moderate coat, and you were looking at a dry day with an environmental temperature of –1 C, with a wind chill that made the actual temperature –4 C, you would do the following calculations:<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Critical temperature = 7 C<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Actual temperature = -4 C<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Difference = 11 degrees<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">11 divided by .555 = <b>19.82% increase</b><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Your horse would therefore need approximately 20% more digestible energy to maintain normal body temperature on that day. If you had the same temperature but the day is a really wet one, your figures would look like this:<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Critical temperature = 15 C (7 C base + 8 C for wetness)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Actual temperature = -4 C<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Difference = 19 C<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">19 divided by .555 = <b>34.23% increase<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Now you know how to figure out what percentage increase you need to make, but you also need know understand how that number translates into different types of feed. We’ll get to that in a minute, but first, you need to know what a megacalorie (Mcal) is, and what the basic Mcal requirements for different horses are. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">The Mighty Mcal</span></div><h1><o:p></o:p></h1><div class="MsoNormal"><b> </b>When we talk about a “calorie”, as it applies to the human diet, what we are usually actually talking about is a kilocalorie (which is also correctly called a Calorie with a capital C), which is the amount of energy required to raise the temperature of one kilogram of water one degree Celsius. When we talk about the diet of a large animal like a horse, we use the Mcal, which denotes 1,000 kilocalories. According to the National Research Council, the basic daily Mcal requirements for a horse whose mature weight is or will be 1,100 pounds are as follows:</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"> Weanling (4 months old) 14.4 Mcals<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"> Yearling (12 months old – moderate growth) 18.9 Mcals<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"> Two-year old (not in training) 18.8 Mcals</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Two-year old (in heavy training) 26.3 Mcals</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Adult at maintenance 16.4 Mcals</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Working horse (light work) 20.5 Mcals</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Working horse (moderate work) 24.6 Mcals</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Working horse (intense work) 32.8 Mcals</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Lactating mare (first three months) 28.4 Mcals</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">If your horse is larger than 1,100 pounds, you would add approximately 1-1.5 Mcals for every additional 100 pounds.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Going back to our example of the 1,100 pound horse on the dry cold day with an actual temperature of –4C, we know that his basic needs would be fulfilled by 16.4 Mcals a day, so if he needs an extra 20% based on the weather, we have to get and extra 3.28 Mcals into him. One would think that you could just increase whatever forage and grain the horse gets by 20%, and that might indeed work out just fine. However, there are some differences in how forages and concentrates work in the body that are worth considering.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Body Heat</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Most importantly, forages and concentrates vary in the amount of internal heat they produce during the digestive process. Forages are digested by microbes in the cecum and large intestine, producing more heat than concentrates, which are digested by enzymes in the small intestine. Therefore, the digestion of hay actually gives off significantly more heat than the digestion of concentrates, even though the latter contain more Mcals per pound. Thus, the best way to increase internal body heat is generally to increase the intake of hay. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">On average, hay contains about 1 Mcal per pound (2.2 Mcal per kilogram), with grass hay typically a little lower and legume hay and alfalfa a bit higher. However, if you really want to know what the DE of your hay is, you would have to have it analyzed by a laboratory that can give you the calculations for horses, as DE numbers for cattle are different for the same hay, due the way they digest their food.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Once again looking at our example scenario, if we assume that our hay is about 1 Mcal per pound, we would need to give our 1,100 pound horse 3.25 pounds of extra hay to cover his requirements on our –4 C dry day, and 5.61 pounds on our –4 C sopping wet day.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">One additional advantage to increasing the amount of hay in your horse’s ration is that the increase in dry matter will encourage him to drink more. Inadequate water consumption is a serious and common problem in cold weather, and has a direct association with and increased risk of impaction colic.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">When Hay is Not Enough</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">In some situations, however, your horse may simply be unable to consume enough hay to get the additional energy he requires. If you have extremely cold weather, older horses, thinner horses, horses with dental issues or horses that don’t have an adequate winter coat, you may need to add concentrates to the mix. Unfortunately, most feed manufacturers do not put the DE (usually expressed as Mcals per pound) of their feed on their labels, so you may need to call the company and talk to their equine nutritionist to get that figure.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">One last thought: some people say that one way to reduce the amount of extra energy your horse requires during cold weather is to outfit the horse with a blanket (see our article on blanketing on page ___). While that may indeed be the case, a leaky or otherwise inadequate blanket can actually make the situation worse, so if you do choose to blanket, make sure you go with a well-fitting, high-quality, effective product.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><h1><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">SIDEBAR: Ten Tips for Cold-Weather Management</span><o:p></o:p></h1><div class="MsoNormal"><b> </b>• Monitor the weather forecasts: knowing when the cold is coming helps you to prepare.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">• Give your horse a head start: increase feed as necessary 24 hours prior to forecasted cold conditions.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">• Make sure your horse is in good body condition going into the winter. For a metabolically normal horse in moderate condition, a 5% increase in body weight over his summer weight can help him stay warm.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">• Determine each horse’s critical temperature and adjust DE intake accordingly.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">• Use hay for increases for horses in good body condition and “easy keepers.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">• Use hay <i>and </i>concentrates for horses in poor condition and “hard keepers.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">• Offer a minimum of 10 gallons of warmed water per horse daily: horses can easily become dehydrated if all they have to drink is cold water or whatever snow they can eat.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">• Feed concentrates as a warm, moist mash during cold periods: horses will like the warmth and you will sneak some extra water into them.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">• Provide adequate shelter for your horses. A good windbreak and a place to get out of the rain can help your horse’s winter coat do its job better.<o:p></o:p></div><span style="font-size: 12pt;">• Run your hands over your horses regularly to feel their body condition. Fuzzy winter coats can hide the fact that a horse is dropping weight. </span>The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-58200378103777070182011-09-28T22:07:00.001-07:002012-02-23T16:03:19.342-08:00WINTER WATERING: Is Your Horse Drinking Enough?<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">There’s nothing like a steaming cup of coffee or a hot bowl of soup on a cold winter’s day, right? Well, imagine if all you had to drink was frigid water, or worse, you had to eat snow to quench your thirst. Not a happy thought, yet that is exactly what many horses face on a daily basis in the Winter. While it is certainly true that horses are not humans and don’t need to be treated as such, it is well proven that horses supplied with warm water during cold weather drink more and have fewer health problems as a result.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"> Maintaining ample water intake is actually a critical part of ensuring the health of your horse during the winter months. Studies have shown that horses prefer drinking water with a temperature of 7-18 C (45-65 F). Under average conditions, a horse will consume about 30 ml of water per pound per day, which works out to approximately 6-8 gallons for a 1,000 pound horse. They will drink considerably more in warm weather or if they are exercising and sweating. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">This might lead you to believe that if their needs go up in hot weather, they must correspondingly go down in cold weather, but this is not the case. The amount of approximately 30 ml/lb per day is what the horse’s body requires to perform its basic functions, whether the temperature outside is cold or moderate. Water is particularly important to the horse’s ability to move food through its digestive tract. Low water intake is directly related to an increased incidence of impaction colic, especially when all the rations a horse receives are dried feedstuffs. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">There are several things you can do to increase your horse’s water consumption during cold weather:<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">1) Provide warm water. Heated buckets or horse-safe stock tank heaters are the best way to provide the horsey equivalent of that hot cup o’ Joe.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">2) Feed concentrates as a warm, moist mash.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">3) Make sure your horse is getting enough salt, as salt encourages water consumption. Horses generally need to take in 1-2 ounces (28-57 grams) of salt per day. That means that a horse should go through one of those four pound, brick-sized salt blocks in 32-64 days. If your block is sitting there longer than that, your horse is probably not getting enough salt. Adding loose salt (one tablespoon = 18 grams) to a warm mash is a good way to get some extra salt into your horse’s diet.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Please remember that horses can become seriously dehydrated if they are forced to eat snow as their sole source of water, and while many can and will break the ice on water buckets and troughs, they may still not drink as much as they should if the water is cold. Consuming snow and cold water can also lower a horse’s core temperature, increasing the horse’s susceptibility to cold and requiring him to take in more calories to keep warm. <o:p></o:p></div>The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-77114124159990657922011-09-28T21:59:00.001-07:002012-02-23T16:03:40.916-08:00WINTER BLANKETS: Necessity or Nuisance?<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b> </b>It is mid-winter, and the horses in this barn are bundled up in thick, quilted winter blankets, with matching hoods that make them look like jousting horses on their way to a tournament. Yes, the mercury has fallen -- all the way down to 65 F -- and the owners of these horses at the Los Angeles Equestrian Center are not going to let their precious darlings suffer from the deep chill.</div><div class="MsoNormal"> While the above scenario (true, I might add) will no doubt elicit chuckles from people who actually experience <i>real</i> winter, there are plenty of strident voices out there who say that most horses don’t need blankets at all, even in harsh winter climates. Advocates of “natural horsekeeping” assert that blanketing horses actually makes them colder, as the blanket compresses their coat, destroying the insulating properties of the warm air normally trapped between the fluffed up hairs.</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Nonetheless, if you’ve ever seen a horse shivering in the cold, then watched him almost sigh with relief when his blanket goes on and the shivering stops, it might be a little difficult to believe that you just made him colder. The truth is that when you are asking yourself whether or not your horses need to be blanketed, you need to look at a number of factors – and the “right” answer will vary from place to place, horse to horse, and day to day.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Weather or Not</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Generally speaking, healthy, well-fed, unclipped horses in good body condition can handle temperatures down to –40 without distress – as long as they stay dry. Soak a horse’s coat with water, however, and you have an entirely different situation on your hands. A wet horse will quickly lose heat through both conduction and convection, effectively creating a “heat sink” that saps a tremendous amount of energy from the horse’s body. According to author and horse care expert Heather Smith Thomas, “A wet horse loses body heat up to 20 times faster than a dry horse.” </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Cold, wet horses will often shiver, which is the body’s attempt to warm itself through small, repeated muscle contractions. Says Thomas, “Since most of this muscle action is being converted to heat, this is a very effective way for a horse to warm himself. It takes a great deal of energy, however, to shiver for a prolonged period, and this can use up his energy stores.” Therefore, a horse living in a temperate but rain-soaked area like coastal British Columbia may have greater need of a blanket than a horse living in a colder but drier place like Alberta. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Sue Frank, of Aldergrove, BC, knows all too well what wet weather can do to a horse. As she explains, “People think that we don’t get ‘real’ Winter out here, so why would we blanket our horses, but I just can’t stand to see them out there shaking like leaves and looking all hunched up and miserable. I find that rain sheets – waterproof, breathable blankets with no fill whatsoever – are perfect for this climate, as the temperatures here remain fairly warm. The sheets act like a portable shelter, so the horses can still move around their paddock and stay dry. In fact, when they have their sheets on, they almost never go in their shelters.”</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Snow is less of a problem for horses than rain, as it doesn’t tend to soak the entire coat. A horse may get somewhat wet along the topline if snow accumulates and melts, but the majority of the coat will often remain dry and will therefore be able to maintain its warm air-trapping “loft”. Sometimes you will see a horse with ice all along its back, yet if you dig your fingers underneath its coat, you will find that the horse’s skin is dry and warm. Still, snow can cause a problem if it is wet and heavy, so blanketing may be in order in such conditions.</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Wind is another factor that comes into play in the blanketing equation. “<strong><span style="font-weight: normal;">In windy regions,” says Thomas, “horses need some type of shelter to protect against the wind chill that can whip away body heat.”</span></strong> Horses provided with a good windbreak may still be fine without a blanket, but if there is no place to get out of the wind, or there is a good chance that the horse may get wet, a blanket would likely be beneficial.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Body Condition</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="MsoNormal"> If you think about arctic whales, seals, polar bears and other animals that thrive in the most frigid conditions, they all have one thing in common: an insulating layer of fat that protects them from the extremes of their environment. Horses get similar protection from having a layer of fat to ward off the cold, but they should not be allowed to become too fat, as obesity in horses can have serious consequences such as laminitis and metabolic disturbances. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">On a horse, a healthy layer of fat is one that covers the ribs enough so that you don’t see them, but you can still feel them if you run your thumb over them with slight pressure. You should not be able to feel deep impressions between the ribs, just the outermost part of the bone. Remember that a thick hair coat can mask a “ribby” horse, so feeling is more reliable than how a horse looks to the eye.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">If you find that a horse is not able to maintain a protective amount of fat – as is often the case with senior horses or those with a particularly fast metabolism – blanketing is probably a good idea, especially if the temperature drops below –9 C. Thin horses will also be especially vulnerable to wet weather, so keep a lookout for shivering, even if the temperature seems relatively warm.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Clipped or Au Naturel</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> The winter coat of a horse is designed to keep him warm, which is a good thing if your horse is not worked much during the cold months. However, if you want to continue working your horse through the winter, a thick winter coat may actually cause him to get chilled. This is because a coat wet with sweat is much like a coat wet with rain – it doesn’t dry well in cool and/or moist weather, and it will wick heat away from the horse. For many people, the solution is a partial or full clip that allows sweat to dry more quickly. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Unfortunately, clipping a horse leaves him essentially “naked” to the elements, so blanketing is definitely required on clipped horses in Northern climes. You may need a variety of blankets on hand for the clipped horse – lighter ones for somewhat cool days, and heavier or layered ones for the real teeth-rattlers.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Horses kept indoors much of the time may also require blankets when turned out, as the artificial light and elevated temperature of an indoor facility can inhibit the growth of a full winter coat. In fact, some show barns keep lights on long enough to simulate summer daylight hours so that their horses do not get “the fuzzies”. Turning such horses out on a cold winter’s day with no protection could be risky to both their health and their comfort.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Blanketing Basics</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b> </b>If you do choose to blanket your horses, you will want to keep a close eye on them, as blanketing can cause as many problems as it solves. Here are some things you will want to keep in mind:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc"><li class="MsoNormal">Choose appropriate blankets for your climate. It is often best to have a variety of blankets of varying weights on hand.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal">A horse can get too warm under a blanket if the temperature suddenly goes up or if they exert themselves. “Breathable” blankets can help with this problem, but you still need to check your horses regularly to make sure they are wearing the appropriate weight blanket for that particular day. Inserting a hand under the chest area of the blanket and feeling for sweat is a good way to check for excessive warmth.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal">An ill-fitting blanket can cause discomfort, rubs and sores. Learn how to size blankets correctly to each horse, and adjust straps as necessary to customize fit.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal">Loose or broken straps can lead to serious injury. Adjust belly and rear leg straps so that they are not tight, but sit no more than a few inches away from the underside of the horse. Remove the blanket and repair any broken straps immediately.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal">Blanketed horses must be checked regularly for sores, parasites, fungal infections or any other problems that a blanket might hide. It is best not to leave a blanket on for more than a couple of days before removing it to give the horse a good once-over.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal">Teach your horse to accept a blanket <i>before</i> you need one. If you wait until that first storm hits to start blanket training, you may not be able to get it on, and if you try to rush the process, you could scare the horse and make him develop a fear of blanketing.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal">Follow manufacturer’s instructions when washing blankets. Regular laundry detergent will destroy the waterproofing on many blankets. If the manufacturer tells you to use a special washing liquid, do so. Many blankets also need to be line dried rather than put in the dryer, so check that instruction as well.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal">You tend to get what you pay for. Cheap blankets are usually that way for a reason: inferior materials and workmanship simply cost a lot less. You may find it less expensive in the long run to invest in a good quality blanket that will last several seasons, rather than having to run out and buy several cheap ones each year.</li>
</ul>The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-65952375129551365082011-09-27T08:58:00.001-07:002012-02-23T16:03:59.129-08:00Does Stress Cause Ulcers in Horses?<div class="MsoTitle"> In the last few years, various studies have shown that an alarming number of horses suffer from stomach ulcers, a problem referred to as Equine Gastric Ulcer Syndrome (EGUS) because of its complex nature. Estimates are that ulcers are present in 25-50% of foals, 60% of show horses, and over 90% of racehorses and other high-level performance horses – and one new study has even found a shockingly high rate of ulcers in broodmares on pasture. Experts agree that the main causes of EGUS are intensive exercise, infrequent feedings, stall confinement, trailering, the use of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) and carbohydrate rich diets, but when it comes to the less tangible factor of psychological stress, opinions differ wildly. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">While there is anecdotal evidence which suggests that psychological stress can play a role in the development of EGUS, and many articles and advertisements state that it does, there is little in the way of hard science to support this view. This may be due to the fact that it is extremely difficult to design a scientifically sound study around something as unquantifiable as a horse’s feelings, but some researchers are emphatic that what studies have been done on EGUS indicate that psychological stress is not a significant causative factor. Others are willing to concede that mental stress can lead to certain types of ulcers most commonly found in foals, but only in a very small percentage of adult horses. Still others are convinced that psychological stress <i>is</i> an important player in the mystery that is EGUS, despite the fact that the link has yet to be definitively established.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"> What is known without a doubt is that the stomach of the horse secretes hydrochloric acid on a continual basis, regardless of the presence or absence of food. This makes sense in an animal designed to take in small amounts of food almost non-stop throughout the day and night. But when horses are subjected to the unnatural conditions and activities imposed on them by domestication, this constant secretion of acid leaves them highly vulnerable to ulcers. The lower part of the horse’s stomach, called the glandular region, is less prone to ulceration due to a protective coating which usually keeps it from being damaged by acid. The upper portion of the stomach, called the squamous or non-glandular mucosa, does not have as much protection from acid, and this is where we find the vast majority of ulcers in horses.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"> Though EGUS can be caused by a number of different factors alone or in combination, the widespread practice of feeding horses relatively large but infrequent meals (2-3 times daily) is one of the most common causes, as the acidity of the stomach increases rapidly after only a few hours without food. Recent studies have shown that a horse's chance of developing ulcers increases after only six hours without the intake of food. Fasting a horse is so likely to cause ulcers, in fact, that it is the method most often used by scientists to induce ulcers for research purposes. Anything that prevents a horse from eating for any length of time, therefore, may lead to ulcers. Since many horses that are upset or worried by a given situation go off their food, most researchers would not dispute the assertion that psychological stress can contribute to the formation of ulcers if it causes a horse to stop eating. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"> Where opinions start to vary is when you ask whether or not the mental stress itself elicits changes in the body that can lead to ulcers. Many scientists agree with Professor Michele Doucet, DVM, Dipl.ACVIM, ACVCP, of the University of Montreal, who states, “Psychological stress itself has not been identified as a significant risk factor for EGUS in adult horses. In theory and in clinical observations, it is thought that stress can cause ulcers of the glandular portion of the stomach and in young foals, but in adult horses, if you look at the data carefully, we do not see a high prevalence of ulcers in the glandular portion – less than 5% in most studies. The type of ulcers seen in adult horses (nonglandular mucosa) have never been associated with stress. Some have looked at this via measurements of cortisol levels, which are the body's indicator of stress, and there is no apparent link.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"> One study that has led many to this view was conducted at UC Davis (N.J. Vatistas, et al) in 1999. During this study, serum cortisol levels were measured at intervals in a group of horses undergoing simulated race training. All the horses developed moderate to severe ulcers, but cortisol levels stayed within normal ranges and actually decreased during the trial. Because the horses all developed ulcers in the absence of any significant differences in their cortisol levels, it was concluded that stress was not a factor in the etiology of their ulcers.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"> However, not all experts agree that this study disproves a link between mental stress and EGUS. According to Alison Moore, DVM, DVSc, Dipl. ACVIM, a specialist in equine internal medicine in Cambridge, ON, “The lack of ‘scientific evidence’ relating stress to ulcers <i>may</i> be due to the method of evaluation. The study by Vatistas only measured cortisol once a week, and cortisol on its own is quite variable. It may also be that these horses adapted quite readily to the levels of ‘stress’ (they were not actually racing) they were subjected to. Clearly in this report, other factors, i.e. feed and exercise management, had more of a part to play.” <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">There is also another study that calls into question the methodology used by Vatistas to measure serum cortisol levels. A pair of researchers in New Zealand (S.L. Alexander, C.H. Irvine) looked at how social stress in a group of horses affected three different aspects of serum cortisol: corticosteroid-binding globulin (CBG), total, and free (not protein bound). The study found that social stress caused CBG binding capacity to fall, and free cortisol levels to rise, but total cortisol did not change. They concluded that “No effect of stress could be detected when only total cortisol was measured. Therefore, to assess adrenal axis status accurately in horses, it is essential to monitor the binding capacity of CBG and free cortisol concentrations in addition to total cortisol levels.” <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">A third study, which looked at changes in cortisol during trailering, did find that the stress of trailering caused a significant increase in cortisol – and trailering is known to bring on ulcers in horses. However, since many horses will not eat during trailering, it is impossible to determine whether it is changes in the body due to stress that causes the ulcers, or the detrimental effects of not eating that are responsible. The difficulty of isolating the factor of mental stress is one of the main problems researchers face when trying to design a study to test whether or not psychological stress can cause ulcers in horses. Even if the Davis study had shown elevated cortisol levels, that would not have conclusively demonstrated that psychological stress <i>did</i> cause the horses’ ulcers, since there were other factors at play that are known to cause ulcers. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">The bottom line is that there are no studies to date that can definitively prove or disprove the link between psychological stress and EGUS, yet some very well respected researchers believe that a link is feasible. Michael J. Murray, DVM, MS, Dipl. ACVIM with Merial Limited is one of the world’s leading authorities on the formation and treatment of equine ulcers. He says, “Psychological stress brought on by situations such as trailering, showing, stall confinement and changes in their social group may be associated with the development of gastric ulcers that often develop in adult horses in these situations. In many cases, it’s anecdotal, but there are a couple of research studies which lend support to the concept. One that I’m very familiar with – because I performed it – is one in which we took horses out of very nice pasture and put them in stalls in our barn at the equine hospital where I worked. In just a week’s time of simply being taken out of the pasture and put into the stall, with free choice hay, they developed ulcers. Now, the question is, was that due to psychological stress, or some other factor such as a change in feeding behavior, and it’s really quite difficult to say. This is just an observation, but the horse that had the worst ulcers was one that did the most hollering out towards her herd mates in the pasture. She was the queen bee, and seemed agitated that she wasn’t out there bossing them around. It seems like a reasonable conclusion that it was hardest on her to be away from her herd mates and not able to participate in her normal herd dynamics.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Murray was also involved in another study which lends some support to the idea that psychological stress can lead to EGUS. “In this study,” he says, “we had 20 horses with no ulcers, about 2 years old or so, co-mingled in a pasture, and we took ten of those and transported them about four hours to another site where they were put into stalls. They were fed free choice hay and they had grain twice a day, and they were taken out once or twice a day and just longed. After three days of that, they were trailered back to their original farm. Of those horses that had been taken away, seven out of ten developed ulcers, in just a five day period. But what was interesting was that two out of the ten horses that stayed home also developed ulcers. It was observed by the people on the site that we had disrupted the herd dynamics, and the horses left behind had to reorder their hierarchy. Again, it’s speculation, but it was a situation where none of them had ulcers when they were all together, so we surmise that perhaps psychological stress related to herd dynamics can play a role.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">The psychological stresses of herd dynamics may also be at the root of why a recent study found a surprisingly high incidence of broodmares on pasture. The study, conducted at the University of Davis, looked at 62 broodmares on irrigated grass pasture and found that 66.6% of the pregnant mares and 75.9% of the non-pregnant mares had ulcers. This was completely unexpected, as previous studies had shown that horses in pasture were at a low risk for ulcers. When asked why the incidence was so high, lead researcher Sarah S. le Jeune, DVM, Dipl. ACVS, told <i>HorseCare, </i>“The farm these mares are from is extremely well managed. We do not have a good explanation as to why they had so many ulcers.” Dr. Alison Moore, however, is willing to speculate that the problem with the broodmares could be psychological stress. “I have seen fillies in race training with clean stomachs be turned out on pasture ‘for a break’, and have evaluated them on return to the stable only to find out they went from a 0 grade to a grade 3 (the worst) while on pasture. I can only surmise that the fillies, who were turned out with another filly who was boss, had hierarchical issues with the boss filly. Is this happening with the broodmares at pasture? Maybe, as mares are far more hierarchical than geldings.” <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Although Moore points out that there are other considerations, such as grain rations, that could have been factors in the broodmare study, she feels that we should consider herd dynamics and other sources of psychological stress when trying to manage our horses. “My take on this is that psychological stress does contribute to the development of ulcers. It is one of many factors and may be more important for some individuals than for others.” Dr. Murray agrees, but adds, “The difficulty is that we really can’t say in many cases what the precise mechanism is that is causing the ulcers. We just know that in conditions which we can imagine are stressful, based on what we do know about horses, that we see ulcers occur frequently. The question is, what is the link between what may be stressful and the development of an ulcer. In many cases, I suspect that it involves interruption of feeding behaviors, as we know that the horse’s stomach becomes highly acidic within minutes of ceasing eating.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Nonetheless, even if we are going to assume that psychological stress is a factor in the formation of ulcers, we cannot extrapolate that a horse whose temperament makes it more prone to appear “stressed out” is necessarily at higher risk for ulcers than individuals that seem more laid-back. As Murray explains, “There is no correlation between what we might call high-strung or nervous horses and the incidence of ulcers. “Both the high-strung ones and the apparently calm ones are equally at risk in stressful situations. That queen bee mare I mentioned was actually very laid back in general, and we had one horse that we used for a lot of our studies who was a real easygoing sweetheart, yet he could develop ulcers at the bat of an eye.” <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">On this point, Dr. Doucet is in complete agreement, stating, “We have observed severe ulceration in horses that were presumably considered to be calm in nature and were not in specific stress situations, and we have seen perfectly healthy stomachs in horses that were considered as very nervous and high strung by their owners or trainers. These are just observations, but we also tried to correlate temperament with the prevalence of ulcers in our studies and never found a significant association. I don't think others have either.” This is one of the reasons why Doucet does not place much, if any emphasis on psychological stress as a factor in EGUS. “I am a scientist,” she says, “and therefore I have to base my comments on valid data. I agree that we don't have the tools to measure all levels of information, but I think it's important that people understand that the association with ‘stress’ has not yet been validated either way, and based on what we know about the causes of ulcers, it is an unlikely risk factor and should be placed well below other ‘proven’ factors in decision making.”<o:p></o:p></div><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> Horse owners would certainly be wise to make sure that they address the well-known risk factors when trying to prevent or manage EGUS in their horses, but that does not preclude trying to identify and reduce psychological stresses, as well. At the very least, mental stress is unpleasant and distracting to our horses, and if human data is anything to go by, it may have a whole host of health consequences for our horses. What the ongoing debate on this topic tells us is that we still have much to learn about this complicated health problem, and much to look forward to from the dedicated researchers who continue to work on this puzzle.</span><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div><div><div class="msocomtxt" id="_com_1" language="JavaScript"></div></div></div>The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-11384311039484734562011-09-26T22:21:00.001-07:002012-02-23T16:04:23.434-08:00CONFORMATION FAULT: Downhill Balance<div class="MsoTitle"><b>Downhill Balance: The Bottom Line on the Topline</b></div><div class="MsoTitle"><b><br />
</b></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFy-ZLN5KEsssv8BGHjEz6n7gF4x_0YoWoCrfe-wEiL7YEBxHiHD7rePGGw2docs-oI38GPyrf6-h8Ex2SWdJTLLaxxS_ufyl01g4FfdIKapjwa8kdAOb4ost4HNQbWRp2IGuTQa4bv6T2/s1600/Downhill+conformation+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFy-ZLN5KEsssv8BGHjEz6n7gF4x_0YoWoCrfe-wEiL7YEBxHiHD7rePGGw2docs-oI38GPyrf6-h8Ex2SWdJTLLaxxS_ufyl01g4FfdIKapjwa8kdAOb4ost4HNQbWRp2IGuTQa4bv6T2/s400/Downhill+conformation+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This horse demonstrates downhill conformation, which can appear in any<br />
breed, but which is particularly common among the stock horse breeds.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;"><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"> </span><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">Many growing horses, especially those in the stock horse breeds, go through phases where the top of the croup is taller than the highest point of the withers. In many cases, the front end eventually catches up, but when this build persists into adulthood, it is generally considered a conformation fault. Variously termed as being “downhill”, “bum high” or having “downhill balance”, such horses are said to be more prone to front end lameness and back problems, as well as to have more difficulty performing athletic endeavors.</span><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"> </span><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">However, there is little in the way of scientific evidence to support the assertion of increased lameness risk, and some argue that downhill balance is not a fault at all.</span><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">There is even the perception in some circles that downhill balance can be an advantage, particularly in a cutting horse, and it is a fact that some top cutting and reining horse sires have a markedly downhill build. Still, most equine professionals prefer a horse that is at least level if not actually uphill – even a cutting horse. Says Jerry Black, DVM, a veterinarian and cutting horse competitor in Oakdale, CA, “The cutting horse has to work low to the ground, so he should not be built with ‘downhill’ conformation. The horse has to drop his hip, with sufficient strength in his back, loin, hip, and stifle to stop hard. If the hip is higher than the withers, there's a lot of pressure placed on the loin during the stop, so the horse can't get as good a set into the stop, or get as deep into the stop.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-indent: .5in;">Top Reining horse trainer Shawna Sapergia of Airdre, AB, agrees, but points out that every individual is different. “My preference is a horse that has a really good wither that comes back quite a ways on their back, a really balanced topline and a good angle to the shoulder. I just feel that such horses can handle themselves as good or better than a downhill horse, but it really does depend on the individual’s athleticism. I’ve seen some horses that are conformationally really good in terms of what I would like to see, but they just don’t have the athleticism or the desire to do it, and then you have other horses that conformationally you don’t think they should they be able to do anything, and they have so much heart and try that they’ll outperform many that are built better. For me though, when I’m picking horses to breed to, I’m really looking for that wither and that topline to cross on.”</div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-indent: .5in;">Asked why she doesn’t like a downhill build, Shawna says, “When horses are built downhill, you can definitely feel a difference in how they travel and how they carry themselves. You have to work a lot harder when you’re riding them to get them to drive up underneath themselves with their hind end and keep their shoulders elevated. They want to naturally travel heavier on the forehand, and they tend to fall in. That comes across the whole board with the spins and the stopping and circling and everything else. It’s something that you’re constantly working on to remind them to use their backs more, which in turn is probably going to cause more strain in their backs. It’s just generally harder for these horses to do what they need to do. </div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-indent: .5in;">“As for the cutting horses, I don’t think it helps them at all to be built downhill. Again, things can vary a lot depending on the individual and their athleticism, but I think a horse that is more balanced and has a better wither and shoulder line is going to be as handy or handier in a cutting situation than a downhill horse. If you think about it being downhill, and they’re crouching even lower with their front end, they really, really have to use their backs hard to maintain their balance.”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">One would naturally assume that if a downhill horse has to use its back in such a way, it would be more prone to back problems, but that does not seem to be born out by clinical observation. Says<b> </b>Dr. Antonio Cruz, <span style="color: #222222;">DVM, MVM, MSc, DrMedVet, DACVS, DECVS, of Paton and Martin Veterinary Services, in Aldergrove, BC, </span>“Many Quarter Horses are built that way, and that happens through a selection process. The selection process would have dictated that if those horses get sore, they probably would have been weeded out. It’s not like we see back problems coming out the wazoo in Quarter Horses. If that conformation was predisposing them to that, you would probably would start to see many more back problems.”</div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-indent: .5in;">What <i>is</i> seen very commonly in downhill horses is lameness of the front feet and limbs, but as Dr. Cruz points out, this may have nothing to do with their being downhill. “It just happens that those downhill horses often have other risk factors for forelimb lameness, like small feet, low heels, long toes, so, what is worse? It is very difficult to separate them and say what is causing the problem. Intuitively, you would think that if a horse has downhill conformation, it has much more of its weight on the front limbs, but nobody is really showing that. Just because I see a horse is downhill, I wouldn’t necessarily say it’s going to have a forelimb problem. If I see a horse with the other risk factors I would say yes, most likely the horse will have a forefoot problem.” </div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-indent: .5in;">Mike Scott, DVM, DACVS, partner and surgeon at Moore & Company Veterinary Services, in Calgary, concurs with Dr. Cruz, stating, “Intuitively, if you think about a horse that’s bum high, he’s going to seem to be heavier on his forehand, and ultimately, you would conclude that he’s going to stress his front feet and joints more than if he came balanced between his front end and his hind end. But, do we actually see that in practice? I agree with the concept, but I don’t really know if it’s true. I see lots of Quarter Horses in my practice, and probably 65% of their lameness issues are in the front foot or the fetlock. But that’s whether they’re bum high or not, so I can’t say that there is an obvious trend.”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">So what is the bottom line on the topline? We may never know, but as with most things, it’s probably wise to avoid extremes and aim for a horse with a build that makes it as easy as possible form him to do the job you want him to do.</div>The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-20758375931335645512011-09-26T21:47:00.001-07:002012-02-23T16:04:41.122-08:00"Back Breakers": 12 Tips to Make Your Barn Chores More Body-Friendly<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal; text-align: -webkit-auto;"> There’s a saying that if you can still count the number of times you’ve come off a horse, you’re no horseman. Still, most of would gladly forgo the horseman moniker if it meant we could forgo the falls. Unfortunately, the reality is that most of us have been thrown plenty – and our bodies pay for it. Add to this the toll taken by other horse related trauma – getting kicked, stomped, jerked, knocked over, etcetera – and it is not surprising to learn that horse people have one of the highest rates of injury of any sport/hobby participants. But what many of us don’t realize is that the day to day activities we engage in as part of routine horse care can also exact a heavy price on our bodies.</span></b></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Says Dr. Wendy Coren, of Equaline Chiropractic Systems of Redding, CT, “Falls can and do create neck, shoulder and back injuries, even when bones do not break, but horse people also often sacrifice their bodies to take care of their horses. All barn chores, in fact, can be done in respectful or disrespectful ways to the body.” Part of the problem is that few of us are ever taught how to correctly lift a hay bale, use a manure fork or dump a wheelbarrow, yet there is much that can be learned about ways to do such chores so that we don’t cause or exacerbate injury. Most of the time, it is a matter of small changes that can make a big difference. With that in mind, here are some tips on how you can make your barn chores less of a pain.</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><b>1.</b> <b>Align, lock and lunge when scooping manure.</b> Manure collection is one of those chores that is simply unavoidable. Many of us are scooping, sifting, lifting and dumping hundreds of pounds of manure and bedding every day, and the repetitive movements, coupled with our often incorrect position and movement, can put a great deal of strain on our bodies. Watch most people using a manure fork and you will see their upper body twisting around, their arms well away from their body, and the manure fork often being pushed almost sideways while their toes point in another direction. This torqued and stretched position is very hard on the lower back in both the push phase (getting the fork under the manure) and the lift phase. This position can also stress your arms and shoulders, potentially causing soreness or injury. </div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">To avoid these issues, you need to keep your sternum more aligned with your hands, keep your arms closer to your body, and most importantly, use your legs in a “lunge” position. As Chiropractor Dr. Robert Malone of Sechelt, BC, explains, “In the lunge position, where your lead foot is well ahead and almost perpendicular to the back foot, and the lead knee is bent, your upper body is supported over your legs – not hanging out in front of them or to the side. This allows you to use your legs and your weight, not just your arm muscles, to help you push and lift, and this reduces the strain on your back and arms tremendously.”</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">The lunge is especially effective if you keep your lead elbow (the one closer to the fork head) locked close against your body. This will prevent you from leading with your upper body or arms when you push, as you will have to use your legs to shift yourself forward to push. Then, when you go to lift the fork, you will once again be “forced” to use leverage and a whole body shift to raise the fork, which offers further protection.</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">The lunge posture also puts you in a more forward-facing position when you are pushing and lifting the fork, which is beneficial to your back and arms. Says Dr. Coren, “I try to get people to use a ‘golf technique’, where you always have your body lined up with what you are doing. The breast bone (sternum) has to stay centered as much as possible over your hands, because if your arms follow your center, it protects your back, just like when you are riding.” </div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><b>2. Face the wheelbarrow when dumping the manure fork.</b> One of the worst things you can do to your back is lift and twist at the same time – something many of us do repeatedly when we go to dump a forkful of manure into the wheelbarrow. By simply taking an extra moment to turn and face the wheelbarrow before dumping the fork, you maintain your “golf technique” alignment and relieve your body of unnecessary strain. You should also use your lunge position to step close enough to the wheelbarrow so that your elbow can stay close against your side, which keeps the weight of the loaded fork closer to your body. Always remember that the further away from the body any weight is carried, the greater the strain on your back, neck, arms and shoulders. </div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><b>3. Bend your knees, not your back, when lifting or setting down the wheelbarrow.</b> A fully loaded wheelbarrow can weigh 150 pounds or more, and lifting one can easily put your back out if done incorrectly. The mistake that many people make is keeping their legs straight, bending forward from the hips and/or rounding their spine to reach the handles. Once again, lifting with the upper body ahead of the lower body – especially with a rounded back – is asking for trouble. The healthier options here are to either use a lunge position, or to bend both knees, keeping the back straight and the upper body fairly upright in both positions. These methods allow you to use your legs to do the lifting, rather than the much weaker back muscles. The same principles apply to setting the wheelbarrow down, which can also cause serious strain if done incorrectly.</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><b>4. Make more runs with smaller loads. </b> Of course, another way to avoid the dangers of a heavy wheelbarrow is not to load it up so much. Though this may seem like common sense, most of us do just the opposite. Observes Dr. Malone, “Most of us load the wheelbarrow as high as we possibly can, then mash it down and add some more. We only stop when the stuff starts rolling off the sides!” If this sounds like you, you may want to rethink your strategy. “Yes, this will take you a few more minutes each day,” says Malone, “but if you injure your back, you can suffer the effects for months or even years. If you already have back problems, you will be amazed at what a difference this small change can make.” </div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><b>5. Dump the wheelbarrow slightly to the side. </b>“Dumping the wheelbarrow is another ‘backbreaker’,” says Dr. Coren. Instead of dumping it straight forward, as most of us do, she recommends dumping it slightly to the side. “This allows you to keep your weight further back,” she explains, and it also prevents you from hyperextending (over-hollowing) your back, as you don’t have to raise your arms up so high while you are pushing.</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><b>6. Switch activities often.</b> Repetitive strain is a common source of injury and can happen more easily than you might think. Therefore, if you have a task that is going to require going through the same motions or holding the same position for more than about 15 minutes, try switching to another activity after 10 minutes or so, then return to the original activity a bit later. This will allow you to rest one muscle group while using another. “I like to have two or three things going at the same time,” says Dr. Malone. “It not only saves my back, but I also end up getting a lot more done.”</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><b>7. Lunge or bend at the knees to lift water buckets and other items. </b>As with lifting a wheelbarrow, you can protect your body when lifting water buckets or other heavy items by dropping into a lunge position or bending both knees while keeping your back straight. This allows you to use your legs, not your back and other vulnerable parts, to get weighty items off the ground.</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><b>8. Balance your loads whenever possible. </b> Dr. Coren sees many clients who have injured themselves carrying something around the barn. As she says, “Horse people frequently carry heavy things such as hay bales, saddles, fencing, and grooming supplies, often in very unbalanced ways. When things are carried all on one side, the muscles are used unevenly. This causes stress which can lead to serious damage to muscles, ligaments and discs.” Coren therefore recommends that whenever possible, you carry loads in a centered and balanced manner:</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="margin-left: .9in; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .9in; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 10pt;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span>“With hay bales,” she says, “depending on the size and weight of the bale, carry it with the back straight, not leaning to the opposite side, which is a very common cause of serious back injury. This often means both hands on the bale and keeping the knees bent.</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="margin-left: .9in; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .9in; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 10pt;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span>“Water buckets<span style="color: red; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9.5pt;"> </span>can create rotator cuff injuries in the arm, cause neck strain, and aggravate a weak lower back, so always lift them correctly, carry them close to the body, and balance the load by carrying one in each hand, if possible.</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="margin-left: .9in; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .9in; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 10pt;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span>“When it comes to saddles, it is critical for the benefit of both horse and rider to carry the saddle close to the rider’s center, rather than slung over the hip. This will reduce strain and stop overcompensation of the back muscles. From this position you can also correctly lift the saddle from the chest, which protects your back and allows you to lower the saddle gently onto the horse’s back.” For those who insist on carrying the saddle to one side, Coren suggests at least switching sides regularly to assist in the balancing effect.</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><b>9. Bend at the knees and hip when picking feet. </b>No one knows how to prevent back injury better than a farrier, especially when it comes to handling a horse’s feet. Chris Erikson, a farrier in Aldergrove, BC, says that too many horse owners hurt themselves unnecessarily by holding the horse’s feet incorrectly when picking them out. “I see people using their back alone to hold up the foot, which they are often holding in mid-air. Instead of standing with the legs straight and the back rounded, you need to bend your knees and fold at the hip, kind of in a half crouch. Then you can rest the hoof on your knee so that you are not holding up the weight of it with your neck and arms.” Dr. Coren adds that the lunge stance can also be used when picking feet.</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><b>10. Use a stool for “high” chores. </b>Tasks that require your arms to be raised up higher than your waist, especially for an extended period of time, can be a literal pain in the neck, so a sturdy stool can be a great help in such situations. Says Dr. Coren, “Standing on a stool for activities such as braiding or trimming is a valuable preventative step, as it reduces pressure on the nerves and muscles in the neck/shoulder region.”</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><b>11. Use a mounting block whenever possible. </b>Many studies have shown that mounting from the ground puts a significant amount of torque on the horse’s back, often leading to muscle imbalances and soreness, not to mention twisted saddles. What many of us don’t realize, however, is that mounting from the ground also puts strain on our own pelvic girdle and lower back. “Pelvic malalignment syndrome is rampant among riders,” states Dr. Malone, “and one of the reasons is the repeated and very uneven motions involved in mounting from the ground.” For this reason, Malone recommends using a mounting block whenever possible, or learning to mount from the off side and doing so 50% of the time. As he says, “It will feel weird at first, to both you and your horse, but really, all of us should learn to do that.”</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="text-indent: 0in;"><b>12. Get a headset for your cell phone. </b>When we’re out there doing our barn chores, many of “multi-task” by talking on the cell phone at the same time. If you are doing so without a headset, however, you may be setting yourself up for injury. Says Dr. Coren, “The amount of cell phone use while doing barn chores causes as much if not more pain than falls where people land on their heads!” This is because many of us try to grasp the phone between our shoulder and our ear, which leads to pinched nerves, muscle strain, and tremendous imbalance in how we use our arms and body overall. “Simply using a headset would cut the neck and shoulder pain down tremendously.” Even so, Coren is not a fan of talking on the phone when working around horses in general. “Awareness is key to preventing a lot of barn injuries,” she asserts, “and part of barn ergonomics is keeping your mind in the present. When you don’t, you are more likely to be stepped on, kicked, head butted or pulled off your feet.”</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Keep in mind that changing long-standing habits of movement and posture can feel awkward or difficult, but if you incorporate even a few of these tips into your daily routine and stick with them, you will soon wonder how you did it any other way. </div><div style="border-bottom: solid windowtext .75pt; border: none; padding: 0in 0in 1.0pt 0in;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; mso-border-bottom-alt: solid windowtext .75pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 1.0pt 0in; padding: 0in;"><br />
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</div><h2>SIDEBAR: Ergonomic tools</h2><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The science of ergonomics is concerned with making it easier for us to work in ways that relieve physical strain associated with the tasks we must perform. A few companies have taken this concept and applied it to the needs of horse people, creating products that are designed to make our chores less physically stressful. Keep in mind, however, that everyone is built differently, so something that does wonders for one person may not be comfortable for someone else.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .4in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .4in; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 10pt;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span>The <b>EasyLift ™ Ergonomic DuraFork</b>, from Miller Manufacturing, is a light-weight, aluminum handled manure fork that has a strategically placed bend designed to make scooping and lifting manure easier. Many people love this product and feel it does help with scooping and lifting, but others have reported wrist pain as a result of what they perceive as increased difficulty in turning the fork to dump it into the wheelbarrow. Therefore, if you have carpal tunnel syndrome or other wrist-related pain, this may not be the product for you. Available at many farm supply stores, or see online at <a href="http://www.miller-mfg.com/">www.miller-mfg.com</a> .</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .4in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .4in; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 10pt;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span>The <b>Nubarro </b>is an unusual looking wheelbarrow designed to make hauling and dumping easier on your back and shoulders. It has a specially balanced frame and a large, rigid plastic ball instead of a wheel, making it easier to lift, turn and dump. The ball also rides more easily over sand and mud than a conventional wheel, without bogging down. Check it out at <a href="http://www.nubarro.com/">www.nubarro.com</a> .</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .4in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .4in; text-indent: -.25in;"><b style="font-size: 16px; text-indent: 0px;"><br />
</b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .4in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .4in; text-indent: -.25in;"><b style="font-size: 16px; text-indent: 0px;"> A Rolling saddle cart</b><span style="font-size: 16px; text-indent: 0px;"> (different models available from different manufacturers) can save you from having to tote a heavy saddle to and from the barn. Some can also be used to haul square bales and other items.</span></div>The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-4302118768559528902011-09-19T22:29:00.001-07:002012-02-23T16:04:58.381-08:00Raising a Healthy Hoof<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">We’ve all heard the old adage, ‘No hoof, no horse’, and few would argue with it. Yet many of us are all too familiar with what it’s like to battle bad feet, a problem that is widespread in the stock horse world. Quarter cracks, thin and brittle walls, white line disease and navicular syndrome are just some of the problems that can at very least put a crimp in your training, and at worst lead to a treasured horse’s early demise. When trying to figure out why this is happening, some people are quick to blame breeders, while others point the finger at the whims of the show world, which at one time favored big horses with tiny feet – a look which is thankfully falling out of fashion. However, an in-depth examination of the problem of bad feet reveals that there are a number of factors that can contribute to the formation of poor quality hooves. Therefore, if we want our horses to have good, strong, healthy feet, we need to look at all of these factors in order to maximize their hoof health throughout their lives.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">NATURE vs. NURTURE?</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> When we look at certain breeds of horses such as Morgans and Arabians, we see that most individuals in these breeds have strong, solid feet. Conversely, when we look at Thoroughbreds and Quarter Horses, we see large numbers of individuals with problem feet. This would seem to indicate that genetics is an extremely important factor in the creation of good hooves. However, current research and a wealth of anecdotal evidence suggest that in most cases, what happens to a horse’s hooves <i>after</i> it is born has far more influence than any genetic contribution. In fact, it may be mostly the management and training practices commonly used with horses of a given breed that lead to the differences we see among breeds. Still, there is undoubtedly genetic variability in hoof size, conformation and quality, and it only makes sense to give horses the best start possible by breeding for good feet. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Conscientious breeders like Tom Sword, owner of the AQHA stallion Smart and Lucky Lena, take hoof quality into serious consideration when making breeding decisions. “I won't breed horses just for bloodlines to cross if they have real foot problems,” says Sword. “I'm not going to tell people what they can and can't breed, but as far as mine goes, I won't own a horse that has real bad feet, and if the mare throws babies with real bad feet, I won't keep breeding her. We’re very particular about the feet of our own stock, but I've seen people breeding horses with things like club feet, and you end up with every third or fourth baby having a club foot. If you breed any of the inferiorities into them, you just make our Quarter Horses worse, not better.”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Sword, who also owned the now deceased halter champion Western Cabernet, would particularly like to see the halter horse industry pay more attention to the feet of the horses they are breeding. As he explains, “I have a little problem with the halter industry because, just being straight now, those horses should be able to be ridden and used. But if you had to take a halter horse out and ride him, and he's got those little tiny feet, you're not going to be able to do it. If you go back into the legends, the older horses, those horses won halter classes and then went out and won performance classes. As far as I'm concerned, that's what we should be shooting for with our horses -- and they can't do it if they don't have good feet.”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Mark Scott, DVM, MVSc, Dipl. ACVS, of Moore & Company Veterinary Services in Calgary, would also like to see breeders place more emphasis on hoof health and durability when selecting breeding stock. He states, “I believe that breeding is of paramount importance in relation to horses having healthy hooves. There are specific, well recognized patterns of foot related lameness that I see every day that are a direct result of the horse’s genetics.” Scott believes that a big part of the problem is that we are not necessarily looking at the right factors when making breeding decisions. “We select which horses to breed to based on paper,” he says, “—paper pedigree, advertising, and money won in competition. The selection criteria that we tend to use do not emphasize durability, and in some cases may select for horses with small, weak feet.”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Hoof care professionals, like Christina Cline of Sumas, WA, also generally place at least some of the responsibility for the quality of a horse’s feet on the breeder. Says Cline, “Common sense should tell us that breeding horses with weak feet is unwise, and it should be pretty obvious by now that breeding horses with unusually small feet for their size is just an all around bad idea. I also see things like mares that have long, sloping pastern conformation that causes a tendency towards underrun heels and long toes, and you’ll see that same tendency in their babies.” Cline believes that good feet should be a big criteria for any breeding program and points out that breeders who ignore this crucial aspect of horse health are doing both their breed and their own reputation a disservice. “If the horses are constantly plagued with foot problems and break down at a young age, that is going to reflect back on the breeder in the long run.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Cline, however, also points out that there is usually more going on than just poor genetics when a horse has bad feet. As she explains, “Genetics do play a part, but the whole genetics issue gets a bit muddled, too, because in many cases, the people who are breeding without paying attention to hoof quality may also have management strategies that do not promote optimum hoof development. Take Thoroughbreds, for example, which are known for having weak feet. People are certainly breeding them without paying attention to hoof quality at all, but at the same time, they coop them up, load them with grain and shoe them at an early age, all of which can seriously compromise even a very healthy hoof. So, sometimes it’s rather fuzzy as to what is actually due to genetics vs. what is due to the environment that the horse was raised in.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">RAISING A HEALTHY HOOF: MOVEMENT<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> The work of Michigan State University researcher Robert Bowker, one of the world’s foremost experts on hoof development and biomechanics, has shown us that a healthy hoof has certain characteristics that allow it to function properly over a lifetime of hard use. These include thick, tough walls and soles; strong, well-developed lateral cartilages; dense, fibrous digital cushions; broad, strong frogs that makes contact with the ground; short toes; and heels that are wide and low but not underrun. Whether or not a horse’s feet develops these characteristics will depend to a very large extent on how the horse is raised. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">How it works is as follows: When a horse is born, the internal and external structures of the hoof are relatively soft and unformed – perfect to support the weight of a newborn foal, but <i>only </i>the weight of a newborn foal. In a free-roaming environment, the foal is up and moving within hours, often over hard, harsh terrain, so its feet immediately start working and adapting to this work load. Every step the young horse takes helps transform its feet, stimulating the soft, fatty digital cushions to become thick and fibrous to protect the coffin bone, helping the tube-shaped baby hoof to spread into a stronger conical shape, strengthening the lateral cartilages and toughening the other structures of the hoof. As the horse grows and becomes heavier, its feet adapt to be able to support the increased stress put on them by a heavier body. As long as the horse is allowed to move in a natural manner on firm terrain, the feet will continue to develop in size and strength well into the fifth or sixth year of life. This is probably the single most important factor in the development of healthy hooves.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">It follows, therefore, that management practices that restrict a young horse’s movement will retard hoof development, especially if the horse is kept on soft footing. Explains Dr. Scott, “Exercise is imperative for normal musculoskeletal development and maintenance. While the horse is growing, the development of its skeleton and soft tissues (both of which are present in the hooves) is influenced by the stresses placed upon them. If the tissues are not stressed appropriately, they will not develop appropriately. If this development does not occur optimally in the young growing horse, permanent impairment of musculoskeletal development is possible. It has been shown that as little as three weeks of stall confinement in a young horse can have measurable negative effects on skeletal development.” </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Dr. Bowker also believes that movement is key to healthy hoof development. “The environment is the major determinant of a healthy foot rather than genetics,” he says. He also points out that we may see bad feet in some of our best horses because the more expensive horses often have more confinement early in their lives. “In fact,” he says, “there seems to be an inverse relationship between expense and movement!” Bowker emphasizes that a horse deprived of appropriate movement is going to be far more likely to suffer from lameness issues down the line, regardless of breed or breeding.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Some people try to compensate for a lack of turnout by longing a young horse, especially if they are trying to condition the horse for show. Unfortunately, this is far more likely to do harm than good. Says Scott, “Attempting to exercise the young horse through methods such as longing risk injury, as they involve repetitive movements which may overload developing tissues. In order for tissues (bone, muscle, tendon, ligament, or hoof) to develop strength, they need to be stressed by exercise and then have time to heal and strengthen in response to that stress. It has been shown that bone can have an adaptive modeling response to specific stress with as little as 30 cycles of a given stress – this means that as little as 30 strides of galloping exercise will stimulate a young horse bone to adapt specifically to galloping. If the young horse was galloped 300 strides every day, however, this would overload the musculoskeletal system and allow insufficient time for tissue recovery, which is likely to result in injury. Rather than longing, the type of exercise that is needed is that which is typical of young horses at play – short bursts of galloping, romping around, running up and down hills, etc. It is difficult to mimic the varied influences of play exercise with a training program.”</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent"> Cline also believes that natural exercise is best for young horses, adding, “I know of one vet who says that longing a young horse should be a crime, and I must say I agree. I would also like to see people wait longer to start riding these horses, as this is a huge factor in the early breakdowns we see so often these days. A big part of my job is rehabilitating horses that have broken down, and when you see horses that are three, four and five years old with all these problems, you can’t help but wish people would just give them more time to grow up before subjecting them to activities that we know are damaging to growing joints. Call me crazy, but I just don’t like seeing three year olds with radiographically confirmed arthritis. </div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent"> Asked what we can and should do to make sure our young horses get enough of the right kind of exercise, Cline says, “The more space they can be turned out in, the better. If you can avoid keeping them in stalls completely, that is definitely a plus. 24-7 turnout with lots of room to run and play, and in as firm of an environment as possible, as opposed to soft, spongy, muddy terrain, will really go a long way towards building healthy feet . Ideally, they should be turned out with other youngsters, because they stimulate so much play and movement amongst themselves that they'll get more exercise than if they're just standing around alone or with their mom. Ponying a foal off the mare from a young age is a great thing to do. Not exercising them to death, but starting to pony them for 15 minutes here, 20 minutes there, then gradually increasing the time as they get older is a great way to exercise a youngster if you don't have a lot of space, plus it gives mom the exercise she needs. However, if you don't have an appropriate amount of space or the right kind of footing to let young horses really move and develop optimally, you might want to consider boarding the horse somewhere that has that kind of environment while the horse is still growing. This is not only in the best interest of the horse, but also in the best interest of the rider/owner in the long run, as you are far more likely to end up with a strong, healthy horse overall.”</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: 0in;">SHOEING<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: 0in;"> According to the work of Dr. Bowker and others, it is also in the best interest of the horse and owner to delay shoeing a young horse as long as possible, and to only keep shoes on for brief periods, if they are used at all. Bowker has conducted detailed post-mortem studies on thousands of horse feet and discovered that the internal structures of horses shod for a majority of their lifetime often look more like those of immature horses. The digital cushion, for example, will lack the dense growth of fibrous tissue that allows it to properly support the weight of an adult horse. This lack of development of the key support structures in the back part of the foot often leads to tenderness in that area, which in turn leads to the all too common toe-first landing now thought to be a major factor in the development of navicular disease. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: 0in;"> What this all boils down to is that if you start shoeing a horse when it’s two and don’t give the feet a good part of the year out of shoes, you can essentially “freeze” the internal development of that horse’s feet – and you may also affect the ultimate size and strength of the entire foot. Says Cline, “It would be extremely beneficial to horses if people would delay shoeing until the feet achieved full maturity, at age five or six. That said, a lot of people are going to shoe earlier and keep the horse shod, which may prevent the hoof from achieving its maximum size. This can lead to problems, because when you have a smaller foot, you have a smaller surface area and less mass to absorb the stress. Every farrier textbook will tell you that shoeing year round is not recommended. Therefore, if people feel they need to shoe for shows or training, take the shoes off and give the horses a break from shoes for as much of the year as possible, at least until the hoof is fully grown.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: 0in;"> Another problem that can result from early shoeing – or any shoeing that does not allow for all the support structures of the hoof to work together – is poor wall quality. As Bowker states, “Peripheral loading of the foot usually causes thinner walls.” What this means is that shoeing or trimming a horse so that the walls bear most of the weight without support from the sole, frog and bars not only inhibits the development of the internal structures, but may contribute to the epidemic of thin, brittle walls we are seeing in our horses. Though conventional shoeing methods are based on peripheral loading, the latest research indicates that all of the structures of the hoof are designed to work together to cope with the tremendous forces placed upon them, and that “hanging the hoof by the walls” interferes with the synergistic relationship of these structures. Fortunately, there are now farriers like Gene Ovnicek (<a href="http://www.hopeforsoundness.com/">www.hopeforsoundness.com</a>) and barefoot trimmers like Pete Ramey (<a href="http://www.hoofrehabl.com/">www.hoofrehabl.com</a>) who are coming up with viable solutions to this problem, based on what Bowker calls the “physiologic trim” (see <a href="http://cvm.msu.edu/news/press/phytrim.htm">http://cvm.msu.edu/news/press/phytrim.htm</a> for details).<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Because shoeing can be detrimental in these various ways, Tom Sword believes that young horses are best left unshod as much as possible. “It's true that horses don't quit growing until they're five years old or so -- their whole body keeps growing, so it makes sense that the feet are still growing, too. I see people shoeing and working these young horses -- some seventeen months or even younger -- and by the time those horses are seven years old, they often have joint problems or hoof problems. The more they shoe them, the worse the frog gets and so on. There are all kinds of problems that develop from continual shoeing on them. I definitely believe you should pull the shoes and let them be without them as much as possible. Don't shoe them too much, and don’t work them too much or too hard when they're young if you want that horse to last you.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">APPROPRIATE HOOF CARE<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> It may be desirable to leave the shoes off a young horse, but that doesn’t mean their feet don’t need attention. Early trimming, in fact, can help ensure that the horse’s feet develop optimally. As Dr. Scott explains, “It is appropriate and in some cases necessary to begin trimming the horse’s feet early in life. The hoof is a very plastic structure, with the ability to change shape depending on how it is stressed. If the foal starts to develop some asymmetry or imbalance in its foot, careful observation and early foot maintenance may limit or reverse this problem.” It is therefore wise to have a foal’s feet and legs assessed soon after birth to determine if corrective trimming is indicated. However, as Scott points out, “If young horses are allowed to live in a ‘wild’ state where they can move over a large area with rough hard footing, they may not need their feet trimmed at all. In my opinion, this is the ideal situation for developing a strong healthy foot.” </div><div class="MsoNormal"> Many youngsters will likely fall somewhere in between, requiring some maintenance from a hoofcare professional. With a foal, the farrier will mainly be looking at two things: a) that they’re wearing their feet enough so they don’t have excess growth, and b) that they’re wearing their feet in a balanced manner. “It’s very common, basically normal to some degree, for a foal to wear their feet a little unbalanced,” Says Cline. “This is because they’ve got narrow chests and they tend to stand base wide, so they’ll wear down the insides faster than the outsides. The farrier will help keep the feet in a balanced state.” Like Dr. Scott, Cline also likes to see foals assessed very early to detect any problems that could be helped through corrective trimming. “If a foal is born with any hoof or limb deformities,” she says, “getting it trimmed by the first or second week is pretty imperative -- even the first or second day. A lot of deformities such as carpal valgus (knock kneed), carpal varus (bow legged), wind-swept legs, and rotational limb deformities can be corrected or at least improved by good hoof care early on. Club footed horses also need to get care really early on, as well.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">DIET <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Another component of helping a young horse develop healthy hooves involves diet – and in this case, less is often more. While it may make us feel good to put our horses out on lush pasture, top them up with grain and buy expensive supplements designed to improve hoof quality, all of these things can actually be detrimental to our horses’ hooves and overall health. What we really need to be looking at, in many cases, is how to keep things <i>out</i> of the horse’s diet that weaken the hoof walls – specifically, too many “quick” carbohydrates. There is a mounting body of evidence that sugars and starches that convert quickly into glucose in the body cause damage to the laminae – the strong but sensitive structures that attach the outer hoof wall to the foot. Weakening the attachment of the hoof wall can cause flaring, stretched whitelines, laminitis, and the opportunistic fungal and bacterial infections that often go along with these problems. Obvious sources of quick carbohydrates are grains and anything sugary or coated with molasses. Less obvious sources are hays high in NSCs (non-structural carbohydrates), and grasses with elevated levels of sugar due to stresses such as overgrazing, frost or drought. Non-native or “improved” grasses – varieties of grass that have mostly been designed to put weight on cattle – can also be problematic.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">This doesn’t mean that you should cut grain and grass from your young horse’s diet altogether, but it does mean that you should be careful with such feeds and make sure that your youngster is not getting overweight – a very common problem in the horse world today and one that should be of serious concern. The feet of a horse that is overweight are subject to both metabolic and mechanical stresses, making them much more prone to problems. Specifically, a recent study by researchers at Virginia Tech stated that overweight horses are vulnerable to chronic inflammation, oxidative stress, insulin/glucose imbalances, heat stress, reduced performance levels, and increased bone, tendon and joint injuries. They concluded that obesity is a “major health concern” in horses that has been widely under-reported. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Unfortunately, many of us have horses that are overweight and we don’t even know it, due to widespread misconceptions as to what constitutes a healthy weight. Today’s leading equine nutritionists say that you should be able to see a hint of ribs on a horse until it is two or so, and after that, you want to be able to easily feel, but not see their ribs. Once again, the preferences of the show ring may be coaxing us up a dangerous path, but ultimately, it is each owner’s responsibility to decide what is best for their horses. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">A good diet for a young horse will consist mainly of grass and/or hay that is moderate in simple sugars and protein, with a balanced vitamin/mineral supplement if needed, access to salt (loose is preferable to blocks), and little if any grain. As Dr. Scott says, “The main cause of nutritionally related problems tends to be overfeeding rather than deficiency. I have seen many cases of laminitis and horses that simply outgrew their feet from being overfed.” <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">THE TOTAL PICTURE<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> When we look at the number of horses with problem feet in the stock horse world today, it is not hard to understand why Tom Sword calls this a “shameful state”. In the end, if we want to see fewer problems in the feet of our horses, we are going to have to work as individuals and as an industry to promote practices that will give our horses a good start and help them maximize their potential. As we have seen here, it takes a multi-pronged approach to raise a healthy hoof, starting with our breeding practices and requiring careful evaluation of our management strategies. This may mean that we might have to make some changes to the way we do things, but as another old cowboy once said, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it – but if it <i>is</i> broke, well heck, you might want to do something about it.” The fate of our horses feet – and ultimately our horses themselves – is in our hands.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</b></span></div>The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-78489665678167025032011-08-31T14:51:00.001-07:002012-02-23T16:05:19.733-08:00Why Feeding Twice a Day Isn't Enough<span style="color: blue;"><b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Horse eating out of 1.5" hole size Nibblenet</td></tr>
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I just came across an ad for a training barn that mentioned the fact that they feed "twice a day", as if this were a selling point. While it is a common practice in the horse industry to feed on a twice daily schedule, this is terribly inadequate if you look at the horse's biological requirements. Please allow me to explain why.<br />
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Horses were designed by nature as "trickle feeders", meaning that they are meant to take in small amounts of food over a long period of time. In natural settings, horses graze at least 16 hours a day, with the pattern being nibble a little, walk a bit, nibble a little more. The whole physiology of their digestive system is set up to accommodate this model of consumption, starting with the fact that horses are constant acid secreters. This differs from humans, whose stomachs only secrete acid in the presence of food. The stomach of the horse, however, produces hydrochloric acid at all times, whether there is food in the stomach or not.<br />
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What happens when there is no food in the stomach of a horse? Gastric ulcers happen -- and they happen in an alarmingly high percentage of domestic horses, though many owners never have a clue (<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: purple;">see other articles on ulcers in this blog for more details</span>). Studies (e.g. the 2009 one performed at the University of Copenhagen by Nanna Luthersson, et al) have shown that going more than six hours without eating puts horses at tremendous risk for the development of ulcers -- six hours! If you feed only twice a day, and it takes the horse only 2-3 hours to clean up its feed (many will do so even sooner, depending on what is being fed), that horse is going 9-10 hours with no food. Is it any wonder that so many of our horses have ulcers?<br />
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It is also psychologically stressful for a horse not to have continual "chew time", and thus horses fed on a twice a day schedule demonstrate significantly higher rates of stereotypic behaviors -- also known as "stable vices". Cribbing, wood chewing, weaving and pacing are just some of the behaviors that are caused by a combination of the physical discomfort of hydrochloric acid eating away at the stomach lining, and the lack of natural amounts of chew time.<br />
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What causes the ulcers to form is twofold: <br />
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<ol><li>Not enough saliva: This happens because horses only secrete saliva when they are chewing (again, the opposite of humans, who secrete it most of the time), and the bicarbonate in the saliva serves to buffer the stomach acid. When you have very few hours of chew time, that means very few hours of saliva. Without any saliva coming in, the acid in the stomach is not buffered, and the acidity quickly increases.</li>
<li>The lack of a protective barrier: Hay in the stomach forms a "hay ball" that prevents acid from splashing up onto the upper portion of the stomach, which is not designed for prolonged exposure to the acid. The stomach of a horse is quite small (only 4 gallons/15 liters on average), and it cannot hold a lot of food, so hay clears the stomach relatively quickly. Once the stomach is empty, there is nothing to act as a barrier.</li>
</ol><div>If you feed grain in any significant amount, this will make the problem even worse, as grains form volatile fatty acids (VFAs) in the stomach, which alter the gut lining and make it even more vulnerable to erosion by hydrochloric acid.</div><div><br />
</div><div>There are other facts and studies I could throw around here, but you get the idea. So, what can you do about it if you don't have the ability to split your horse's feedings into multiple smaller meals a day? Two words for you: SLOW FEEDERS. Slow feeders are nets or feeders designed to only allow your horse to get a small mouthful of hay with each bite. They have to work at it, and thus it extends the time they spend eating. There are many, many slow feeders on the market, and some people build their own. I personally like the Nibblenet (choose the smaller hole sizes) and the Freedom Feeder nets, but to each his own. If you want more information on this WAY BETTER feeding strategy, Google "Paddock Paradise Slow Feeders" and you will find tons of useful information.</div><div><br />
</div><div>It is our responsibility to try to adapt our management practices to accommodate the horse's needs -- after all, they didn't ask to be domesticated. Thus, if you're feeding only twice a day, ask yourself if that is in the horse's best interests or yours.<br />
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P.S. I have an article coming out soon in EQUUS magazine on the concept of slow feeding...keep your eye out for it! : )<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #cc0000;"><b>Thanks for reading! If you would like to be notified when new articles are added to this blog, just click the "follow" button on the upper left part of any page.</b></span><br />
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</b></span></div>The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-66207366399280026982011-08-30T21:05:00.001-07:002012-02-23T16:05:36.441-08:00COLIC QUIZ: Test YOUR knowledge about this common killer<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"> Colic, a term used for any kind of abdominal pain originating in the horse’s gastro-intestinal tract, is one of the most common and most feared of any equine emergency. The high incidence of colic can be attributed to a number of factors including feeding strategies, environmental variables, and the physiology of the horse’s digestive system. The fear factor is due to colic’s well-deserved reputation as a killer of horses, and because many horse owners feel helpless when faced with the prospect of a colicking horse. However, despite its fearsome reputation, colic is usually not fatal, and most cases resolve without surgical intervention. A major study conducted by the USDA’s National Animal Health Monitoring System found that the incidence of colic was 4.2 events/100 horses per year, with a fatality rate of 11 percent. That means that less than one out of every 200 horses will die in any given year from colic.</div></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Still, horse owners who have experience with this ailment know that each case is like an earthquake: when it starts, you simply have no way of knowing if it is “the big one”. Therefore, it is essential to understand the signs of colic – and what steps to take (and not take) until the vet arrives. It is also imperative to be familiar with the causes of colic, as some colics are preventable if the proper measures are taken. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Here is a quiz to help you test your knowledge of colic. Don’t worry, we’ve given you the answers, too – some of which may surprise you!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><b>1. True or false: Curling the upper lip (flehmen) can be a sign of colic.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">True. Most of us are familiar with the “classic” signs of colic – repeated or violent rolling, pawing, biting or kicking at the flank, and lack of bowel movements. However, colic can present with a whole host of symptoms, some of which often go unrecognized. These include:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Decrease or total lack of appetite</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Listlessness or depression</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Kicking, biting or looking at belly or flank</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Pawing</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Swishing tail</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Sweating</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Rolling, especially violent rolling.</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Lying down with reluctance to get up, or repeatedly lying down and getting up.</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Groaning/Bruxism (grinding teeth)</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Lack of bowel movements</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Standing stretched out as if trying to urinate but not doing so</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Resting heart rate of more than 44 beats per minute</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Respirations greater than 30 breaths per minute</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Flared nostrils</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Lack of or reduced digestive sounds</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Excessive digestive sounds </div><div class="MsoNormal">- Pale, blue, or very red gums</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Abdominal distension (bloating)</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Curling the upper lip (flehmen)</div><div class="MsoNormal">- Increased or uncontrollable activity</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><b>2. True or false: I can reliably test my horse for sand accumulation in the gut by performing a fecal sand sedimentation test.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">False. Sand accumulation is a major cause of colic in horses. Horses ingest sand from grazing, especially on overgrazed pastures, and also from being fed off the ground. Many veterinarians and diligent horse owners regularly perform fecal sand sedimentation tests to try to see if the horse has a large amount of sand in the gut. To perform this test, you take five or six fresh manure balls (ones that haven’t touched the ground), dissolve them in water (some use a large mason jar, while others prefer a bucket or large plastic bag), shake the slurry up, wait several minutes, then carefully pour out the floating and cloudy stuff. After repeating this process several times, you should be able to see any sand that has sunk to the bottom of your container. More than a teaspoon is generally thought to indicate a problem. However, as <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Charles Ley, Dipl ACVIM,</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><em><span style="color: black; font-style: normal;">PhD</span></em><span class="apple-style-span">, of <span style="color: black;">Uppsala University in Sweden explains, “</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Sand excretion in healthy horses has been studied by fecal sand sedimentation test</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;">ing,</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"> but the method is flawed for two reasons: it does not provide a quantification of the intestinal sand content, and it has a low sensitivity as a test for intestinal sand accumulation with a large number of false negatives. Due to these factors, it should not be used as a gold standard for diagnosing sand impactions or other sand-related problems.”</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> Therefore, not finding sand doesn’t mean your horse is free from sand accumulation, but if you test repeatedly and <u>do</u> find sand consistently, this would indicate a problem.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>3. True or false: Switching from one type of hay to another can cause colic.<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">True: Rapid changes in feed are a common cause of colic in domestic horses. This is due in part to the fact that a significant portion of the equine digestive process is accomplished with the help of microbes that live in the GI tract, and different types of hay, grass and grain require a different balance of microbes in order to be broken down effectively. It takes time for the horse’s gut to cultivate a new “garden” of microbes, so most veterinarians recommend introducing any kind of new hay, grain or grass gradually over a period of two weeks. Rapid increases or decreases in the amount of feed can also lead to colic, as well as other problems. Increasing concentrates quickly is a proven risk factor for colic (as well as laminitis), while cutting a horse’s diet down suddenly can lead to ulcers, which are another common cause of colic. Any increase or decrease should therefore also be made gradually.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><b>4. True or false: Poor dentition (tooth problems) can lead to weight loss, but does not increase the risk of colic.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b> </b>False. Hay and grass are full of tough fiber called cellulose. In order to digest cellulose adequately, horses must first grind the fiber into smaller size fragments with their teeth. Horses with inadequate dentition are unable to properly masticate (chew) the hay – and this can lead to colic. States Elizabeth Carr, DVM, <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">PhD, Dipl. ACVIM, ACVECC, assistant professor in </span></span><em><span style="color: black; font-style: normal;">Michigan</span></em><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">State University's Department of Large Animal Clinical Sciences, “P</span></span>oorly ground fiber can end up forming a firm mass as the water content is removed in the gut, and it can result in an impaction of the distal intestine (large and small colon)”. Problems that can prevent a horse from chewing properly include the formation of points, ramps or waves on the teeth, all of which can develop as a result of day to day chewing. Older horses may also have problems with their teeth simply wearing down, as the teeth stop erupting when a horse is in its 20s. Having a veterinarian check your horse’s teeth at least once a year is the best way to avoid dentition-related colic.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><b>5. True or false: Dehydration can lead to impaction colic, so this type of colic is more likely to occur in the summer, when horses are sweating profusely.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">False. Although impaction colic can be seen at any time of year, it occurs more frequently during cold weather. This is often due to lower water consumption, which happens because horses are less thirsty in cold weather and may be reluctant to drink very cold water. Water is critical for normal intestinal function, and any level of dehydration can make it more difficult for the horse to move ingesta through its intestines. Basically, the drier and coarser the feed, the more likely it is to form a blockage.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><b>6. Colic surgery these days has a very high success rate.</b></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> True. While it used to be true that 50% or more of horses undergoing colic surgery would not survive more than a short time, the reality of colic surgery today is much more positive. Reports L. Chris Sanchez, DVM, PhD, Dipl. ACVIM, Associate Professor at the Island Whirl Equine Colic Research Laboratory at the University of Florida, “Colic surgery typically offers a very good prognosis for survival. Overall, approximately 85% undergoing surgery for colic survive to discharge from the hospital. </div><div class="MsoNormal">Many factors contribute to this success, including improvements in anesthesia, surgical technique, and aftercare. Also, transporting horses with surgical lesions to referral centers early clearly plays an important role as well. Of course, Some problems, such as a simple displacement of the large colon, offer a better prognosis than others.”</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><b>7. A colicking horse should be kept walking.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"> False. This myth remains widespread today, despite research that has shown that in most cases, the practice is of no benefit and may actually be detrimental. As Dr. Sanchez emphatically states, “It is very important to get the word out that it is absolutely not necessary to force a horse to keep walking. Doing so for long periods of time can actually tire the horse and increase dehydration. If a horse will lie quietly, it is fine to let it do so.” The only time it is advisable to get a horse up and walking is if the horse is rolling violently or thrashing in such a way that it may harm itself or others, In these cases, walking may help distract the horse from its suffering. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>8. Diets high in concentrates increase a horse’s risk of colic.<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> True. Diets high in concentrates contribute to the extremely high incidence of gastric ulcers seen in domestic horses – and ulcers can lead to colic. Concentrates are rich in fermentable carbohydrates, which produce volatile fatty acids as they break down, and these can cause cell damage, inflammation, and ulceration in the tender part of the stomach known as the squamous mucosa. Concentrates also require much less “chew time” than hay, which means the horse produces less saliva to eat them. Since saliva contains bicarbonates, which act as a natural buffer against hydrochloric acid, less saliva means higher acid concentrations in the stomach. Alfalfa also appears to have a buffering effect, but whether this is due to its calcium content, specific proteins or a combination thereof is still being investigated.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>9. The physiology of the horse’s GI tract makes it vulnerable to colic.<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">True. With an overall average length of 100 feet and the ability to hold about 48 gallons of water and ingesta, the horse’s GI tract must pack into a relatively small space. This is accomplished by a series of bends in the intestines known as flexures. “Unfortunately,” says Dr. Carr, “these flexures are often sites where food or other materials can slow down or accumulate, potentially leading to colic. Ingesta can also get held up or impacted in the cecum, the large ‘blind-ended’ pouch that takes food in after it passes through the small intestine, then empties it into the large intestine.” An additional source of potential problems is the rather tenuous way the intestines are held in place. Though it seems surprising, the entire mass filling the abdominal cavity is only anchored to the body in a few places, leaving the intestines vulnerable to displacement and torsion (twisting).</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><b>10. A colicking horse should not be allowed to roll, as this can cause a torsion.</b></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"> False. This is another widely believed myth that has been disproved by science. Explains Dr. Sanchez, “A twisted segment of intestine is one of the most painful things a horse can endure. This typically causes severe rolling, rather than the other way around.” When a torsion does occur, it is often a complication of gas colic. Gas colic, although very uncomfortable for the horse, is generally not serious and the survival rate is very high. However, complications can arise and become life-threatening if a distended bowel twists or becomes displaced. Such complications are not likely to be caused by the horse rolling, but rather from the fact that the portion of the intestine filled with gas will have a tendency to rise to the top of the abdominal cavity. If rolling were likely to cause a torsion, it would be dangerous for a horse to roll at any time – not just during a colic episode.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><b>11. Horses with colic will usually have an elevated heart rate.</b><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"> True. Most horses with colic pain will have an elevated heart rate, meaning one greater than 44 beats per minute. The severity of the elevation usually correlates with the intensity of the colic. Heart rates above 60-70 should be considered significantly elevated and a veterinarian should definitely evaluate your horse as soon as possible. As individual horses may have a higher or lower heart rate than average, it is important to familiarize yourself with what your horse’s normal resting pulse rate is so that you can tell when it is elevated.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><b>12. If you think your horse might be colicking, you should try to get it to eat something.</b></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-indent: .5in;">False. Some people believe that feeding a colicky horse will help “settle its stomach”. However, if a horse is colicking, it is recommended that you temporarily withhold giving feed and remove any leftover feed until the underlying cause is known or symptoms resolve. Says Dr. Carr, “If there is a serious problem like an impaction, introducing more feed into the horse’s system can make things worse. In addition, there are some forms of mild colic that may resolve by simply withholding food and giving one dose of pain relief. Examples include spasmodic or gas colics, which can occur when the horse ingests too much grain or undergoes a stressful event.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><b>13. Horse owners should keep pain relief medications for colic on hand, but should consult their veterinarian before administering them.</b></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"> True. While it is often recommended to have some pain relievers like Banamine (flunixin meglumine) or phenylbutazone available in your first aid kit, it is very important to consult with your veterinarian before administering them to a colicky horse, as you may mask symptoms important to diagnosis and successful treatment. It is also extremely important that you do not overuse these medications. Banamine, Equiox, phenylbutazone and dipyrone are examples of nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs that are used to control pain in the colic patient. Repeated dosing of these types of drugs can result in toxicity, including ulceration of the GI tract (which may result in further colic signs) and kidney toxicity (which can result in kidney failure). These toxic effects can be more severe when a horse is dehydrated or the drug is given multiple times in a single day. Therefore, when giving these types of medications, it is always best to talk to your veterinarian prior to administration. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoBodyText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><b>14. A rectal exam is the best way for a veterinarian to diagnose colic.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">False. Although the rectal exam is an important part of the work up, it is only possible to palpate 25% or less of the abdominal cavity. Consequently, the rectal exam rarely results in a definitive diagnosis. Instead, it is useful to help determine the type of colic (large intestine or small intestine), the degree of distension of the intestine and the location of the affected bowel.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><b>15. A horse that is psychologically stressed is at higher risk of colic.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> True. Explains Dr. Carr, “Psychological stress brought on by changes in a horse’s physical environment (e.g. trailering, showing, moving to a new stable) or social environment (e.g. any change in herd dynamics, a different neighbor in the next stall, the absence of a buddy) has been associated with an increased risk of colic. This may be due to physiological changes triggered by stress, or to the fact that stressed horses often go off their food and water.” Either way, doing what you can to minimize such stresses will not only keep your horse happier, but may also help in the prevention of colic.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText"><b>16. Allowing a hot horse to drink immediately after exercise can cause colic.</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;"> False. Chances are you have heard the old myth that a hot horse should not be allowed to drink after exercising until it has cooled down. However. recent research has shown that withholding water after exercise may be potentially harmful because it prolongs dehydration, and dehydration can lead to colic, as well as other problems. Horses are more likely to drink soon after exercise when their thirst drive is high, and they need that fluid intake to replace fluids lost to sweating. Therefore, it is a good idea to allow the horse to drink in most typical scenarios. If you want to err on the side of caution, provide access to water that is not ice cold, and walk the horse for short periods between allowing him to have a few good gulps. </span><br />
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</b></span></span>The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-45513612081246140982011-08-30T20:16:00.001-07:002012-02-23T16:06:08.251-08:00Suspensory Ligament Injuries: New Treatments, New Hope<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0.5in;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="text-indent: 0.5in;">Suspensory ligament injuries (SLIs) are a common and potentially career ending occurance in the world of performance horses.</span><span style="text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="text-indent: 0.5in;">In the Western disciplines, reining and cutting horses are particularly vulnerable to SLIs due to the high speed, high torque maneuvers required of them.</span><span style="text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="text-indent: 0.5in;">However, any horse performing an athletic activity can sustain such an injury, especially if they are working in less than ideal footing.</span><span style="text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="text-indent: 0.5in;">Until very recently, the prognosis for horses with serious SLIs was not very good, as damaged ligaments are notoriously slow and difficult to heal.</span><span style="text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="text-indent: 0.5in;">As a result, many horses with SLIs never became sound enough to return to their former level of competition, and those that did had a high risk of reinjury.</span><span style="text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="text-indent: 0.5in;">However, several promising new treatments currently being investigated by researchers are significantly brightening the outlook for horses with SLIs, with some studies suggesting that even severely injured horses may have a good chance of returning to full use.</span><span style="text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="text-indent: 0.5in;">Some of these new methods are already being utilized by practicing veterinarians, with very encouraging results.</span></div></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Before one can understand why the new methods are so exciting, it is necessary to understand why traditional methods have so often failed. The difficulties stem from the fact that ligaments and tendons have a relatively tenuous blood supply, so injuries do not have much benefit from the healing components brought by the blood to other types of wounds. What healing does take place tends to be in the form of scar tissue, which does not have the same organization or elasticity as the original material, and is thus easily reinjured. Traditional treatment involves months of stall rest and administration of NSAIDs, followed by slow and very careful reintroduction to exercise. Moderate to serious injuries often take six months to a year to heal, though a large percentage of horses never return to their previous athletic capabilities.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Whether or not a horse will heal with traditional methods depends, to a great degree, on the severity of the injury. According to Nathaniel A. White II DVM MS, Diplomate ACVS, Jean Ellen Shehan Professor and Director of the Marion duPont Scott Equine Medical Center in Virginia, “Suspensory ligament injuries vary from mild to severe. The mild injuries tend to heal readily with treatment, while the more severe injuries develop core lesions where loss of the fibers that make up the suspensory ligament create a weakened area with scar tissue which makes repair much more difficult. Severe injuries where the ligament attaches to bone -- at the origin at the top of the cannon bone and at the insertion on the sesamoid bone -- are the most difficult to heal. These sites of injury have the most frequent recurrence of injury due to chronic inflammation and excess scar formation, which is weaker than the normal ligament.” </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Fortunately, even the most severe injuries will likely benefit from the new treatments being developed by researchers, which share the common aim of improving the <i>quality</i> of the healing, though they do not all claim to speed up the healing process. In order to help veterinarians and their clients to better understand this rather astonishing array of new developments, the American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP) recently published a review delineating the new therapeutic options currently available. Their list included the following:</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><b>1. Scaffold-Based Approach (ACell Vet® Powder) <o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">ACell Vet powder is a pulverized form of the ACell Vet sheets that are used in wound healing applications. The material is made from the walls of pig bladders, which contain a mixture of proteins that form a three-dimensional scaffold upon which healthy tissue can grow. When injected into an injured ligament, the ACell material promotes the formation of new blood vessels, and also attracts bone-marrow derived cells that aid in the growth of new ligament tissue. The ACell material then essentially disappears, leaving healthy new tissue of the type normally found in the area. Richard D. Mitchell DVM, of Fairfield Equine Associated in CT, conducted a major study on the use of ACell Vet powder to treat ligament and tendon injuries in horses. His preliminary data showed an 81.6% recovery rate for horses with serious suspensory ligament injuries at six months or longer – a vast improvement over the results typically obtained by traditional treatments alone. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Says Mitchell, “The 60 day examinations consistently demonstrated good fiber pattern formation and minimal edema in treated lesions. The noted fiber pattern demonstrated good linearity along the lines of stress/loading.” Translation: the injured horses laid down normal, strong, elastic tendon tissue instead of disorganized, weak scar tissue. However, the AAEP review cautions that “additional laboratory evaluations and controlled in vivo studies are required to better document the efficacy and potential adverse effects of this product.” They point out that introducing proteins from another species could provoke a detrimental foreign-body response in treated animals, and there are some unresolved legal questions surrounding the use of ACell Powder for this application.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><b>2. Growth Factors<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Growth factors are naturally produced molecules that regulate cellular metabolism. They are important in the healing of tendon and ligament injuries because they increase cell proliferation and differentiation, and they also stimulate vascular growth. There are a number of different kinds of growth factors, but the only one studied for clinical use in the horse thus far is insulin-like growth factor-I (IGF-I). IGF-I can be injected into an injured tendon or ligament, or it can be administered through gene-therapy techniques. Either way, it seems to promote improved healing, leading the AAEP to state that this method “holds tremendous promise for the future.” There appear to be no detrimental side effects to this therapy, with the only drawback being that IGF-I is not readily available at this time for veterinarians in private practice.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><b>3. Autogenous Bone Marrow Injection<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Bone marrow harvested from a horse’s own sternum can be used to promote healing of SLIs. The bone marrow is thought to work in two ways: First, bone marrow contains mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs), which, when injected into the injured ligament, may turn into mature ligament cells called fibroblasts. This allows appropriate repair tissues to develop, instead of scar tissue. Second, bone marrow is believed to contain high concentrations of growth factors, which are thought to improve the healing of ligaments and tendons. Though this method has shown positive results in clinical testing without apparent adverse effects, the AAEP remains cautious about it, saying that there is little scientific evidence to back up the method. They also make mention of the fact that there are actually very low numbers of MSCs in bone marrow, and as a result, the large amount that must be injected (20-30 ml) may result in damage to the area. Furthermore, they point out that high levels of a growth factor known as TGF-ß may result in excessive scarring, which would be detrimental due to potential recovery.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><b>4. Adipose-Derived Adult Stem Cells<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">One of the most promising new developments – and one that is readily available to the average veterinarian – is the use of stem cells harvested from a small sample of adipose tissue (fat) taken from the injured horse. Recent studies have shown that fat is a rich source of adult stem cells, and since fat samples can be easily and harmlessly removed, it is proving to be an excellent source of stem cells for therapeutic purposes. For the treatment of SLIs, the attending veterinarian removes a small piece of fat (about two tablespoons) near the horse’s tail head in a simple standing surgery, then sends this to a laboratory for processing. The lab isolates the MSCs, then sends them back to the veterinarian ready for injection. All of this can happen in as little as 48 hours, which allows for rapid treatment that may be beneficial in heading off the formation of scar tissue. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">There is also no risk of an immune response to the injected material, as it is derived from the horse’s own body. According to the AAEP review, “Adipose-derived adult stem cells seem to have an anti-inflammatory and normalizing effect on tendon architecture. Ultimately, the architecture of the remodeled tissue is crucial to the mechanical properties of the tendon and its ability to withstand repetitive strains without reinjury.” They state that initial indications are that horses treated with this type of stem cell therapy are successfully returning to competition, and conclude by saying, “The use of adult stem cells to enhance tendon and ligament healing is an area with tremendous potential that requires further rigorous investigation.”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><b>5. Extracorporeal Shock Wave Therapy<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Extracorporeal shock wave therapy (ESWT) is another new therapy that is rapidly gaining popularity in the equine performance horse industry. Shock wave therapy is being used to treat many disorders in performance horses, from suspensory ligament injuries to stress fractures. Though the mechanisms by which ESWT promotes healing are not entirely understood, it is thought to work by inducing blood vessel growth, increasing the expression of various growth factors, and attracting stem cells. Horses treated with shock wave therapy can potentially return to competition sooner than those treated with traditional rehabilitation programs, though this depends on the severity of the injury. The increasing demand for shock wave therapy is due to this potential for faster healing, improved recovery rates, and reduced costs associated with layup and rehabilitation. However, the AAEP cautions that “potential side effects include hemorrhage, mechanical cell disruption, and marked histologic changes.”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">There are also new surgical options that may be appropriate and beneficial to horses with SLIs that are not responding to less invasive treatments. These include desmoplasty (surgical splitting of the ligament), and fasciotomy (incisions through the fascia). Says Dr. White, “The goal of the desmoplasty and fasciotomy is to decompress the swollen ligament and allow a new blood supply to grow into avascular areas which persist in the non-healing ligament. The surgery increases the inflammatory response, which encourages new fibroblasts or tissue stem cells to form new ligament cells.” These techniques have resulted in an 85% recovery rate for proximal suspensory desmitis.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Ultimately, future treatment for SLIs will likely involve a variety of approaches which will work synergistically to promote faster and better healing. Recovery will still be a relatively lengthy process, as returning to exercise too quickly or too aggressively significantly increases the chance of reinjury, regardless of what kind of treatment is being used. As Dr. White observes, “It is apparent that some severe suspensory injuries require a full year to heal even with the newer treatments.” </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">Still, Dr. White agrees that the overall outlook for horses with SLIs has improved over the last few years. He believes there is great promise in the new treatments being developed, but adds that there are other reasons why progress is being made. “The prognosis is better because we understand some of the reasons why the suspensory ligament doesn't heal. The greater the initial inflammatory response, the more likely scar tissue will form. By understanding the inflammatory response and the response of the scar tissue to surgical treatment the outcome has been improved. Ultrasound has also made a great difference in diagnosis and monitoring healing, thereby preventing over use during the remodeling phase.” </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">The outlook for any individual horse may also depend on how soon the injury is recognized, and what is done or not done in the hours, days and weeks immediately following the injury. Left undiagnosed and untreated, an SLI will start to develop scar tissue, which will make any treatment more difficult and less likely to succeed. While some SLIs can be hard to detect, here are some things you can look for, depending on what type of SLI you are dealing with:</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><b>Proximal suspensory desmitis: </b>This is an injury to the uppermost quarter of the suspensory ligament, seen with equal frequency in front and hind legs. There is often no swelling apparent because of the bony structures surrounding the ligament in that area. Horses may be very lame, or may simply not be performing at their best, but lameness will usually become more pronounced if the horse is trotted in a circle with the affected leg to the outside. Flexion of the fetlock joint may also increase apparent lameness.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><b>Suspensory body desmitis: </b>This is an injury to the main body of the ligament, between the proximal section and where it branches off at the fetlock. Swelling is usually evident, and there will be pain on palpation. Lameness is usually not evident, with swelling typically being obvious long before any lameness is noted.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><b>Avulsion (tearing) of the origin of the suspensory ligament:</b> Usually seen in the front legs, this injury to the attachment of the ligament does not always produce visable swelling because the origin of the suspensory ligament is surrounded by bone on three sides. Lameness can vary from acute and severe to something that seems to come and go. As is the case with proximal suspensory desmitis, lameness is usually worse if you trot the horse in a circle with the injured leg to the outside.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><b>Desmitis of the branch of the suspensory ligament:</b> This injury is the easiest to recognize, as there will be obvious swelling that fills the normally hollow space between the ligament branch and the cannon bone. This area will be painful to the touch, though lameness is usually not a symptom.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><b>Suspensory breakdown:</b> Severe over loading of the fetlock can lead to complete failure of the suspensory apparatus, and/or breaking of the sesamoid bones. Lameness is instant and severe, with dropping of the fetlock joint.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none; text-indent: .5in;">If you suspect a possible suspensory ligament injury of any nature, it is best to apply cold hosing or ice packs immediately, followed by the application of a support wrap. The horse should be confined to a stall until a veterinarian can assess the injury. These first aid procedures may make a difference in the long run, setting your horse up for the greatest possible chance of making a complete recovery. If an SLI has gone undiagnosed for some time, recovery may be more difficult, but is not necessarily impossible. Consult with your veterinarian regarding the best options for your horse. You may be in for a long haul, but the road to recovery is getting easier to travel all the time.</div>The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-60091642271416321842011-08-29T14:01:00.001-07:002013-03-26T09:57:23.248-07:00CASE STUDY: Compassion and Courage save a Severely Abused Mare<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<b>WARNING: The details of this case may be disturbing to some readers.</b></div>
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Gail Jewell, DVM, CAC, is a holistic veterinarian who practices in the Lower Mainland and Okanagan areas of British Columbia. With her emphasis on chiropractic and homeopathy, she is used to dealing with devoted horse owners willing to do most anything to help their horses. In 1998, however, when she was called out by the SPCA to examine an injured horse in Aldergrove, BC, she became a central player in an animal cruelty case that brought her face to face with the worst of human nature.</div>
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The horse was an Appaloosa filly now named Kessie, approximately 1 ½ years old, who had gotten a leg caught in a piece of derelict farm machinery left in a field housing a number of horses and cows. “The place was wall-to-wall junk”, says Jewell, “so it’s amazing more animals didn’t get hurt there.” As for Kessie, she was unable to get free and eventually went down, where she lay panicked and struggling for at least 24 hours.</div>
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A neighbor alerted the owner that he had a horse down, whereupon the owner assessed the situation and decided the filly wasn’t worth saving. However, as Jewell recounts, “Rather than call out a veterinarian for humane euthanasia, the owner attempted to kill the horse himself – by smashing her head in with a sledgehammer. Apparently, the massive blow caused her to make a colossal effort to free herself, and she managed to untangle herself and get to her feet.” </div>
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Perhaps too cowardly to go after a horse that was now standing – albeit on three legs – the owner led the severely injured filly into a filthy cow shed that was several feet deep in manure. At that point, he did call in his cow vet, who administered a shot of long-acting penicillin but was not allowed to do anything else. Jewell believes it was this veterinarian who contacted the SPCA, but she is not entirely certain. What is known is that the SPCA sent a second vet to examine the horse, but he was not allowed to do so.</div>
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The SPCA then sent Jewell – but this time they provided an RCMP escort to ensure that she would get to see the horse, and to provide for her own safety. “It was actually very frightening,” recalls Jewell, “because the owner was rabidly angry, a real loony toon just screaming his head off and calling me every name in the book. If we hadn’t had the police there, I think he would have assaulted me.”</div>
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By that time, Kessie was about four days into the injury – and she was in bad shape. “When I walked in there,” says Jewell, “what I saw was a mare who was three-legged lame on her left front leg, which had an almost 360 degree de-gloving injury where the hide had been stripped right off the leg. Several muscles in the front and the inside of the leg were severed and shredded – they looked like hamburger. The wound was already full of maggots, just crawling with them. </div>
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“Then there was the injury from the sledgehammer: a skull fracture with bare bone sticking out of the wound and a large depression just below the left eye, sort of left center. The whole bony orbit of the eye was crushed and pressed down, and she’d obviously been bleeding quite copiously from the left nostril. In addition, she had a full-blown, full-thickness ulcer the size of a quarter on her left cornea, which had been abraded against the ground as she struggled repeatedly to get to her feet.”</div>
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It was obvious that the mare was in a tremendous amount of pain. She was also not even halter broke and was understandably wary of people, which wasn’t helping. Remembers Jewell, “It was a very bad situation, any way you looked at it. I was thinking there might even be a leg fracture, and you have to realize that the whole time, the owner was screaming at us, but the police were keeping him from interfering with my exam. Taking all factors into consideration, my recommendation was to put the mare down – there was no question in my mind.” </div>
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Jewell had already sedated Kessie for euthanasia and drawn up the euthanol, when something happened that stayed her hand. “Just as I was getting ready to administer the injection, she looked at me in this way that said, ‘I’m a fighter, I want to try’. I can’t explain it – something shifted in me. She just looked me right in the eye and right through my soul, and I simply couldn’t do it.”</div>
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Instead, Jewell took advantage of the sedation to do an initial cleaning of the wound, then bandaged it and started the horse on some antibiotics and pain relief. Afraid to leave the mare for fear of what the owner might do, she and the RCMP escort stayed on until a hauler came to pick the horse up and transport her to the Abbotsford SPCA. “From that point on,” says Jewell, “the mare’s response to everything we had to do was simply amazing. She actually followed me right into the trailer like a little orphan dog, even though it was the first time in her life she’d even had a halter on her, and despite the fact that she could barely put any weight on her leg.” </div>
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Jewell rode with Kessie in the trailer, where the young horse seemed to really bond with the veterinarian who was trying to save her life. Kessie’s attachment to Jewell became apparent once they reached the SPCA and got her inside. “It was like if I was there she was okay,” says Jewell, “but she got quite anxious when I walked away. I cancelled my calls that weekend and stayed with her at the SPCA, I think for 36 hours straight.”</div>
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Now that Kessie was in a safe, clinical environment, Jewell was able to start more aggressive treatment, but it was highly intensive work – and the outcome was far from certain. Recalls Jewell, “It was really touch and go for a while. I was sort of going 12 hours by 12 hours in terms of whether we were going to keep treating her or euthanize. The danger of bone infection was very real, and she was not eating. We also had her on IV fluids because she was quite dehydrated from her ordeal. I’d treat her through the day between other cases, then stay there overnight because her eye required treatment every two hours.”</div>
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Though Jewell was exhausted, her dedication was rewarded when the mare finally seemed to stabilize. “She began eating, and physically she started looking a bit better. I think Kessie’s personality and the connection we shared had a lot to do with her surviving that initial phase of treatment, because with everything I had to do to her, she just totally put her trust in me and said, ‘Okay, let’s do this’. She loved attention, she loved being groomed, loved company. She was obviously a real people horse, despite what had happened to her. It was pretty amazing.” </div>
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Jewell decided to adopt Kessie, waiving all payment in exchange for the little horse that had touched her soul. She wanted to take Kessie home and continue treating her there, but she kept her at the SPCA for about a week to allow the filly to gain strength, as Kessie had really struggled in the trailer the first time. </div>
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Once she did get her home, however, her recovery was anything but a smooth ride. Explains Jewell, “After I got her home there were a couple of rough times. She went three-legged lame again due to reinfection about three weeks into treatment, and I thought, that’s it – this horse can’t be saved. I actually felt relieved, because I was completely exhausted, trying to run a practice on my own and having this mare that needed round the clock care. So, I drew up the euthanol one more time – but same thing happened: Kessie somehow communicated to me that she wasn’t ready to go, and I just couldn’t do it. The next day, Kessie rallied again, despite the infection, and we bonded even more. It was a real emotional roller coaster for a while, for sure.” </div>
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The battle Jewell was fighting had two main fronts: the eye, which she still wasn’t sure she could save, and the ever-present specter of an incurable bone infection. Both the skull fracture and the damaged leg were vulnerable to such infection, but the leg was actually a much greater concern,. “If there was a sequestrum (dead, separated bone that antibiotics can’t reach) in the head area, we could have just taken it out, but if she developed a primary infection in the humerus, well, that probably would have been the end.”</div>
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To deal with the soft tissue infection and try to prevent it from spreading to the bone, Jewell switched to a regime of two totally different antibiotics from what she had used initially, and went with that for two weeks. In addition, Jewell started using some homeopathic remedies, as well as herbal concoctions in the wound – a treatment modality Jewell was just beginning to explore. “Fortunately,” says Jewell, “Kessie started responding to that regime, but we were still not free and clear. She had IV catheters in both jugulars because both antibiotics were IV, and she had to be rewrapped all the time – it was an extremely labor intensive treatment. It was a good month before she was out of the woods by any stretch of the imagination.” </div>
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Kessie did eventually turn the corner for good, and Jewell was even able to save her eye. Today, Kessie is a happy, healthy mare, though her face retains a noticeable depression below the left eye, and her third eyelid does not function normally on that side. However, her leg healed beautifully. “It’s pretty unbelievable,” says Jewell, “because if you could have seen that de-gloving injury -- she had no hide on about 80% of her leg, and it all grew back in.”</div>
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Though the time, expense and emotional energy Kessie’s treatment required was more than most veterinarians would have taken on, Jewell’s heart compelled her to do. As she states, “It truly was a labor of love -- I simply fell in love with her. As soon as I decided that we were going to take her from the owner’s property, nothing else was really a decision, it was just something I had to do. The initial plan was that I would treat her and the SPCA would reimburse me for the medical expenses and such, but in the end I just basically traded the SPCA the medical bill for her.”</div>
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Kessie’s treatment also provided Jewell with a new perspective, in a number of ways. “I had just begun my study of homeopathy and chiropractic, and Kessie was kind of my guinea pig horse that I tried a lot of things on. I truly think that there were a couple of homeopathic and herbal remedies that really helped turn her around. She was my first serious case where I integrated Western medicine and holistic medicine, and I was impressed with the results. </div>
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“Dealing with Kessie also made me braver – I’m totally unafraid of taking on tough cases. I think that animals have far more innate ability to heal than I understood prior to that, and I’ve certainly seen that in my practice since. If you just give them a chance and give them the care they deserve, they can, in many cases, come back from some pretty horrendous injuries. In Kessie’s case, she really let me know that she wanted to keep fighting, and I had to listen. It was a decision that she was very much a part of.”</div>
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Jewell kept Kessie until last year, when she made the difficult decision to part with the mare for Kessie’s benefit. As she explains, “About four years ago we got really heavily involved at a high level in endurance riding, and we’ve got ten endurance horses now. I went from having little time with Kessie to having no time for her, and she’s a horse that really craves attention. I tried to get a free lease situation arranged so that she could stay here, but nothing really worked out.</div>
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“Then a client of mine, Lori Clewlow of Roberts Creek, BC, lost one of her horses, and she ended up taking Kessie. If you know Lori – gosh, I want to be adopted by her! She looks after her animals so incredibly well, and I thought that if they clicked, that would be a great place for her to be. Jimmy, one of Lori’s other horses, used to belong to me, and he and Kessie had been together before for about 3-4 years, so it was kind of a reunion for them, too.” Kessie is now Queen of the Clewlow pasture, enjoying excellent care, lots of grazing and leisurely rides through the lushly wooded coastal trails.</div>
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The one lingering sour note is the fact that Kessie’s original owner was never brought to justice. Says Jewell, “We tried extremely hard to have him charged with animal cruelty. We had a trial date and I was all set to go testify, then the case was dismissed. What the SPCA told me was that one of the other veterinarians refused to testify, and so the owner was let go without so much as a fine. That was a really sad time, especially as it wasn’t the first time for that guy.” There is still emotion in Jewell’s voice when she adds, “I must say, it’s embarrassing to be human sometimes, to see the stupidity and the cruelty that our species can inflict upon other animals.”</div>
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Embarrassing and disheartening, without a doubt. When faced with such cases, we can only hope that the goodness and selflessness of people like Dr. Jewell will triumph in the end, as it did in the case of one small appaloosa filly – who was clearly willing to forgive us all.<br />
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The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-40587222340448689002011-08-22T16:00:00.001-07:002012-02-23T16:06:42.685-08:00HORSE SHOPPING 101: (Part 1) Choosing an Appropriate Horse<div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;"><b style="font-size: 19px;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;">Congratulations! You are thinking about buying a horse, which is a fun and exciting prospect. The fact that you have chosen to read this article bodes well, as it indicates that you want to make an informed, responsible decision in your purchase. That tells me that you are also likely to be an informed, responsible horse owner, which will allow you and your horse to have a happy, safe and healthy experience together. Here is some information to help you choose the right horse for your needs -- enjoy!</span></b></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #660000;"><b><i><span style="font-size: 12pt;">A)</span></i><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span><i><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Determine your goals:</span></i></b></span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l9 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in; text-align: left; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Do you want to show?</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> If so, at what level? If you have big ambitions for the show ring, you will need a big wallet to match. Horses with the breeding, conformation, talent, temperament and training to succeed in the show ring cost plenty. Don’t fool yourself into thinking that you can buy a promising youngster and train it up yourself unless you are highly experienced and skilled. Most people require the help of professional coaches (for the rider) and trainers (for the horse) to make it in competition – starting with choosing an appropriate horse. However, if “showing” to you means the occasional local or schooling show just for fun, you may do just fine with a less expensive horse.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l9 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in; text-align: left; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Do you want to trail ride?</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> If so, how seriously? A horse that would be perfectly well suited to an hour or two weekend trail ride may not be up for endurance competition or multi-hour rides five days a week. For most people, a good trail horse is one that has a quiet, sensible, willing nature, does not spook easily, has comfortable gaits and strong, healthy feet, and is <i>sound enough for your purposes, </i>meaning it will hold up for the amount of hours and miles you intend to ride on a regular basis. A good trail horse should load easily and travel well (in case you need to trailer to the trails), cross through water without balking, go calmly over bridges of various kinds, be non-reactive when things brush against its legs and belly, not kick at other horses close behind it, and be tolerant of dogs – even rushing, barking ones. VERY IMPORTANT: Many people think that a trail horse doesn’t need much training, and as long as it knows go, stop and turn, it should be fine. While it is true that the horse does not need to know piaffe and passage, it is EXTREMELY useful for a trail horse to move well laterally (sideways) off your legs. Why? Because if you are going through trees, gates, etc., it is handy to be able to get your horse to move over quickly and easily so that you don’t lose your kneecaps! I personally like my trail horses to have quite a bit of training, as this can save your life when unpredictable situations crop up. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l9 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in; text-align: left; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Do you have a specific discipline in mind?</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> Far too many people select a horse that is simply not built to do the job they want it to do, then get frustrated with the horse. A downhill, short-necked Quarter Horse is going to struggle with jumping or dressage, while a heavy-boned draft cross will never be suited to endurance riding. The old expression “there are horses for courses” is very apt! The true “all-arounder” – a horse that can do multiple disciplines well – is quite rare.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l9 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in; text-align: left; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Do you want a breeding animal?</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> In general, it is best to leave the breeding of animals to those for whom it is a consuming passion, science and art. There are already FAR TOO MANY horses on the market, and there is no truth to the idea that you should let a mare have at least one foal to “make her happy”. Breeding is also expensive, and raising a baby has its own demands. If you are considering getting a mare with the idea of breeding her somewhere down the line, you need to STUDY, STUDY, STUDY when it comes to bloodlines, genetics, heritable characteristics and diseases, conformation, marketability, etc. You need to be sure you have a facility that can safely house a mare and foal. You need to have plenty of cash to purchase a <i><u>quality mare that is worth breeding</u></i>, and for the stud fee of a proven and marketable stallion that will cross well with your mare, not to mention money for vet bills. If, for some reason, you are thinking about getting a stallion with the idea that you’re going to make oodles of cash in stud fees, I have one thing to say: DON’T DO IT!!! You need to be an expert horse handler to safely deal with a stallion, as well as have special facilities to house one, and you need marketing expertise, the time and money to compete/campaign your horse, and LOTS of cash for advertising. Then there are the precise and expensive demands involved in artificial insemination (collection, as well as testing and shipping of cooled and/or frozen semen), complex insurance needs if you are doing live cover – the list goes on and on. Please do not buy a young colt and leave him ungelded to “see how he turns out because maybe he’ll be stallion quality”. You are asking for trouble, both for yourself and the horse, and even a little bit of research will show you that the market is saturated with quality stallions owned by big money breeders with whom you will never be able to compete.<i><u><o:p></o:p></u></i></span></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l9 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in; text-align: left; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Do you want a “companion” animal?</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> If you are looking for a horse to be a companion to another equine and nothing more, bless your soul. However, you need to be aware that just because you are not riding a horse does not mean you can care for it any less. Companion horses still need regular hoof care, dental care, and veterinary care. Many horses sold as companion animals are also older, and senior horses often require special food and “extras” such as blankets, more frequent dental checks, etc. They may also have lameness or health issues, so think carefully and investigate fully. I do not advise forgoing a vet check on such a horse, as you may be taking on a huge liability and much potential heartache if it has major health problems.<i><u><o:p></o:p></u></i></span></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;"><i><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: purple;">B) Match your horse to your abilities:</span></b><o:p></o:p></span></i></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l7 level1 lfo4; tab-stops: list .5in; text-align: left; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Don’t “overhorse” yourself. </span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> As a trainer, I have encountered many, many people who bring me their “problem horses” in hopes that I can fix them. Most often, the problem is not with the horse at all, but rather with an owner who does not have the riding or horse handling skills to successfully work with the horse they have bought. One of the most common scenarios is the “green horse, green rider,” in which someone bought a horse with little or no training for a rider who is equally experienced. The idea was that they would “grow together”, but in reality, this is a bad and dangerous idea all around. Green horses require the utmost skill and knowledge from a rider, and if you aren’t up for the task, you could easily get seriously injured or cause a training issue for the horse that may be difficult to undo. For example, a rider who is just learning to jump will often accidentally bump a horse in the mouth over a fence, and while any horse will resent this, a green horse may become so frightened that it will start refusing fences entirely, perhaps even bucking and rearing in protest – tough to handle for a pro, let alone an inexperienced rider! A green rider is far better getting themselves a “school master” type horse – one that has been there, done that, has lots of training, and is going to be forgiving of your mistakes. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l7 level1 lfo4; tab-stops: list .5in; text-align: left; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">And another thought:</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Don’t “overhorse” yourself, even if you are an experienced rider! </span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Sadly, it’s not just inexperienced riders who buy ‘more horse’ than they can handle. Even very experienced riders may not know how to cope with the needs of a green horse, or a very sensitive horse, or a horse that has some issues. It is easy to get seduced into buying an extremely beautiful or talented horse, but if that horse ends up scaring you, you are not going to enjoy your riding time and may be setting yourself (and your horse) up for failure or injury. Best to leave that gorgeous horse that is usually good but occasionally throws an insane bucking fit to someone who is truly comfortable riding and working through insane bucking fits! Yes, many issues like that will go away with proper training – but be sure you can handle what that horse is likely to throw at you before you get things sorted out. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l7 level1 lfo4; tab-stops: list .5in; text-align: left; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">One more thing:</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Don’t let <i>someone else </i>“overhorse” you! </span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Trainers make most of their money from their clients. However, they make their reputation, in many instances, by the results they obtain in the show ring. They do want to put their clients in the ring and see them win, but they will also often show their clients’ horses themselves. I’ve known more than one trainer who urged a client to buy a horse that was great for the trainer to have in the barn and show, but totally inappropriate for the owner to ride at all. If you enjoy just being the bankroll behind a competitive horse, that is fine, but if you want to ride your own horse now (not in some nebulous future when the trainer gets it rideable enough for you), don’t get talked into a horse you don’t feel safe on today.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left;"><i><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13;">C) Pick a horse that is an appropriate age:</span></b><o:p></o:p></span></i></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l7 level1 lfo4; tab-stops: list .5in; text-align: left; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Don’t buy young if you are inexperienced. </span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">In general, an inexperienced rider should look for a horse no younger than about 8 yrs. Though there are exceptions, horses younger than that are less likely to be settled and experienced enough to be ideal for greener riders. The “ideal” age range I usually recommend for the less experienced rider is 8-12. These horses are most likely to be past all the silliness of youth, but still young enough that you can realistically hope to have a number of years of solid use out of them.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l7 level1 lfo4; tab-stops: list .5in; text-align: left; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11.5pt;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Beware of the super-well-trained youngster!</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> Many horses these days, particularly those in the Western disciplines, are started under saddle far too early. It’s not that they can’t learn what they’re being taught, it’s simply that their bodies are not mature enough to handle intense training. Noted equine physiology expert, Dr. Deb Bennett, has demonstrated that a horse’s skeleton is not fully mature until about the age of six. Before that time, intensive training is potentially harmful to the immature bones, ligaments and tendons. Shoeing early has also been shown to be detrimental to the development of strong, large, healthy feet, as the feet also keep growing well into at least the fourth or fifth year. Sadly, the horse industry is perfectly happy to train up these youngsters, make the big bucks </span><span style="font-size: 11.5pt;">off them in the show ring when they are three to six, then dump them when they start having lameness issues. I have personally seen radiographically confirmed arthritis in several three year olds – arthritis caused by excessive strain on a young body. These were beautifully trained youngsters with high price tags being sold as show prospects. In each case, I urged the buyer (whom I was assisting) to x-ray the horse. The buyers were hesitant to do so, not believing that a horse that young could have problems of that nature. They all thanked me afterwards. I now recommend that buyers simply not even bother looking at 2-3 year olds that have any significant amount of training. Yes, I understand that this goes against what the Western show world wants and does. But I personally don’t like seeing horses break down by the time they are six or seven because they have been ridden into the ground by someone wanting to rack up wins. And I sure don’t want to own one that has been set up for such early problems. Just my opinion, folks.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l7 level1 lfo4; tab-stops: list .5in; text-align: left; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 11.5pt;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 11.5pt;">Be careful and realistic when buying older horses. </span><span style="font-size: 11.5pt;">Older horses (15+) can be great mounts. They have usually had plenty of experience, may be very well trained, and are generally less reactive than younger horses. However, it is unrealistic to expect an older horse to be perfectly sound. By that age, most horses have at least some minor aches and pains, a bit of arthritis, or have sustained an injury or two along the way. There are exceptions, of course, and some older horses can remain extremely active well into advanced age. Still, it is wise to assume that an older horse will have some limitations. What you need to keep in mind is that a horse with some limitations may nonetheless be completely suitable for your needs, even if it would not be suitable for serious competition or hard-core riding. I always recommend a vet check prior to purchasing a horse, but it is an <i><u>absolute must</u></i> if you are considering buying an older horse. While you may be fine with a horse whose arthritis makes him a little stiff at the beginning of a ride, you do not want to buy a horse with any issues likely to cause debilitating lameness now or any time soon. You should also be aware that even a healthy older horse may require a more expensive special diet at some point, and senior horses (18+) should have their teeth examined at least twice a year to try to optimize dental function as long as possible. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l7 level1 lfo4; tab-stops: list .5in; text-align: left; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l7 level1 lfo4; tab-stops: list .5in; text-align: left; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><b>Okay -- now it's time to read part two of this series: "Conformation Faults and What You Need to Know About Them"!</b></span></div>The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-75200630410460052592011-08-22T15:18:00.001-07:002012-02-23T16:07:00.485-08:00HORSE SHOPPING 101: (Part 2) Conformation Faults and What You Need to Know About Them<div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left; text-indent: .5in;"><span style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">Conformation refers to how a horse is built and how his parts fit together. It affects balance, movement, athletic ability and soundness, so it is an important consideration when buying a horse. You are much more likely to have a mount who takes to its job easily and remains sound if it has good conformation for the type of work it will be doing. Though there is some variation in what is considered desirable in different breeds, it is a simple fact that form follows function, and function follows form. This means that well-functioning bodies will necessarily have a certain form, and the form they actually have will determine how well they function. Please be aware that conformation is a huge topic which can only be touched upon in a class like this. It takes years of study to become a truly good judge of conformation, but you can learn to look for certain good points and weak points. However, it is important to realize that there is no such thing as a “perfect” horse, and some horses with considerable flaws may be perfectly well suited to you and your needs.</span></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left; text-indent: .5in;"><span style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="text-align: left; text-indent: .5in;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><b><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Faults of the Axial Body (parts that are not the legs)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;">While some conformational faults, such as overly large ears, have more to do with aesthetics than biomechanics, others are well known to predispose a horse to lameness. Conformational faults of the axial body that can lead to lameness include:</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</div><ul style="font-size: 11.5pt; margin-top: 0in;" type="disc"><li class="MsoNormal"><b>Coarse or thick throatlatch:</b> Though most people think of a thick throatlatch as a problem that may interfere with a horse’s breathing, it can also lead to lameness by causing a horse to travel with its nose poking out and its head up. This, in turn, leads the neck to drop, the spine to “invert” or hollow, and the hind legs to “trail” rather than move up and under the belly to help carry the weight of the horse and rider. In this position, the back of the horse is more vulnerable to injury. </li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><b>Ewe neck: </b>A ewe or “upside down” neck is one that attaches low to the chest, creating a undesirable curve or bulge downwards along the underside of the neck, a concave profile along the crest, and an abnormal dip in front of the shoulder blade. A horse with this conformation will have a difficult time shifting weight from the forehand to the rear legs, resulting in increased stress on the front limbs and feet. Ewe-necked horses are typically limited athletically.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><b>Steep/short shoulder: </b>The degree of angle in the shoulder determines the forward reach of the horse’s front legs. The shorter and straighter the shoulder, the shorter and quicker the stride will be. This is not only uncomfortable for the rider, but has the more serious consequence of transmitting more stress and concussion to the forelimbs. </li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><b>Long back/Weak loin: </b>A long back is a weak back. However, many horses referred to as "long-backed" actually have a reasonable back length, but are long and weak in the loin area. Such horses tend to hollow their backs and have more trouble supporting the weight of a rider, predisposing them to back-related lameness.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><b>Steep croup (“goose rump”): </b>A horse with a “goose rump” has a very steep croup that places the hind limbs in an unnaturally forward position, resulting in greater strain on the lumbar spine, pelvis and hocks. While this can allow the horse to come under from behind, creating what appears to be good, “reachy” movement, the additional strain can make a horse sore up more easily.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><b>High croup (“downhill”)</b> : While many young horses go through periods where they are “croup high” or “downhill”, a highest part of the croup of a mature horse should be level with or even slightly below the highest point of its withers. A downhill topline places the horse's center of gravity forward, causing the horse to travel more heavily on the forehand with consequently increased concussion and stress. A downhill build also makes saddle fit more difficult and more critical, as the saddle will have a tendency to ride forward on the horse, potentially pinching the withers and shoulders.</li>
</ul><div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Faults of the Limbs (Appendicular Faults)<o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-align: left;"><i><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Front Limb Problems:<o:p></o:p></span></i></div><div align="left" class="MsoTitle" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><b>Carpus Valgus (Knock Knees): </b>The knee of the horse is a complex structure consisting of eight carpal bones that connect to various other bones, as well as muscles, ligaments and tendons. With so many parts needing to fit and function as one, its not surprising that the knee has a whole host of possible conformation faults associated with it. One of the most common is carpus valgus, also known as “knock-knees” or being “in-at-the-knee”. In a horse with this conformation, the horse’s knee (carpus) falls to the inside of the plumb line, creating what is called an “angular deformity”, because there will be an unnatural angle where the knee connects to the forearm (radius) and/or the third metatarsal (cannon) bone. It is common to see some degree of outward rotation of the cannon, fetlock and foot associated with this deviation. Horses can have carpus valgus in one or both front legs.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">Carpus valgus can result from a number of different types of abnormalities, including:</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">a) problems with the growth plates or other parts of the distal (lower) end of the radius, particularly one side of the growth plate producing faster bone growth than the other.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">b) abnormal development and alignment of the carpal and metacarpal (splint) bones</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">c) incomplete ossification of the carpal bones</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">d) excessive laxity of the carpal joint</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">It is quite normal for a foal to be born with a mild carpal valgus and toed out appearance. As the foal grows and the chest widens, the limbs typically straighten out with no intervention. However, <span class="apple-style-span">if significant carpus valgus is allowed to go uncorrected and lasts into maturity, it</span> can predispose the horse to soundness issues. The deviation puts strain on the inside aspect of the knee, as well as the structures connected to it. This continual strain can result in tendon and ligament injuries, as well as osteoarthritis. Carpus valgus horses may also wear down the inside part of their hoof or shoe more than the outside. <i>Please note that this condition cannot be corrected at all in a horse over 2 yrs. old, and attempts to do so through trimming or shoeing are likely to cause lameness.<o:p></o:p></i></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0.5in;"><b>Is it a deal breaker?</b> It depends on the degree and your intended use. If you plan to ride and train hard, jump, or compete at all seriously, avoid horses with this fault. If your use will be less demanding, a mild to moderate degree of carpus valgus might be okay, but you should have a vet examine the horse carefully.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><b>Three knee faults best viewed from the side:<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><b>Back at the Knee (aka calf or sheep knee): </b>This is a serious fault in which there is a slight to marked ‘bowing’ backwards of the leg from a lateral view. A plumb line would fall closer to the front of the knee and further behind the heel bulb. This puts similar strain on the limb as if the horse were continually traveling downhill. Such conformation can put excess strain on various parts of the limb, including the flexor tendons, inferior check ligament, and suspensory ligament. Horses with this fault may not move well and may be prone to stumbling, as well as bone chips in the knees and soft-tissue injuries such as bowed tendons. Working these horses in deep footing should be avoided, and it is worthwhile to x-ray the knees of any horse that is back at the knee before purchasing it. Unfortunately, many horses with this structural fault do not remain sound.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</div><h1 style="font-size: 11.5pt;">Over at the Knee (aka buck or goat knee, knee-sprung, forward at the knee): <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;">Over at the knee is the most common of the “lateral view” structural deviations. Horses over at the knee will demonstrate a slight to marked ‘bowing’ forward of the leg, when viewed from the side. A plumb line falls closer to the back of the knee and slightly forward of the heel bulb. In some cases, the limb may vibrate or shake, and it may buckle easily if you push it from behind. The strain placed on the limb is similar to what the horse would experience if constantly traveling uphill. You may see a shortened stride, and the horse may place excessive strain on the superficial flexor tendon, suspensory ligament, and sesamoid bones. Riders often report feeling that they are “lurching” forward and backwards when mounted on these horses. In severe cases, horses may actually buckle at the knee and go down, putting both themselves and their riders at risk. However, many horses with this condition have long, productive performance careers.</span><o:p></o:p></h1><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</div><h1 style="font-size: 11.5pt;">Tied in Knee (aka tied in behind or below the knee): <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;">From the side, this conformation fault will appear as an indentation under the back of the knee at the top of the cannon bone. It is actually caused by an abnormally small carpal canal, a structure through which several tendons and ligaments must move. The result is inhibited forward movement, as the soft tissue structures behind the cannon bone – the superficial and deep digital flexor tendons and the suspensory ligament – are prevented from moving freely. Be aware that some horses may have a thick or heavy fetlock that can give the appearance of the knee being tied in, when it really isn’t. Tied in knees typically do not present the same sort of lameness risks as the previous two.</span><o:p></o:p></h1><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;">If your adult horse has any type of knee deviation, it is important to realize that you cannot change it, and efforts to alter or improve his balance through corrective shoeing are more likely to cause harm than good. The best strategy is to go cautiously with any activity, and back off if your horse starts to show any signs of soreness. Stay out of deep footing that can cause extra strain, and be avoid steep hills if you have a horse that tends to trip or buckle. If your horse is getting sore and backing off on work isn’t providing relief, talk to your veterinarian about pain medication or joint injections, both of which can be helpful in some cases. Remember that faulty conformation does not automatically mean a horse will go lame – it only shows us potential areas of weakness. It is probably best to avoid young prospects with moderate to severe knee deviations, but if you are looking at a proven campaigner with a slight fault, and the horse has not shown signs of lameness, the horse will likely continue to do just fine.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><b>Toed in: </b>Horses that are toed in have a rotation in the pastern area that turns their toes toward each other. This condition often occurs in conjunction with other abnormalities, such as being base wide or base narrow. Horses that toe in are predisposed to splints, fetlock and suspensory ligament problems.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><b>Toed out: </b>In toed out horses, the pastern area is rotated outwards, so the toes turn away from each other. Mild toed-out conformation is not considered a serious problem and can often be corrected in foals. In more extreme cases, horses may injure themselves due to the “winging in” that this problem can cause, which can make them strike the opposite forelimb when moving. Winging in<b> </b>is when a horse’s feet do not travel in a straight line during the forward movement of the limbs, but instead swing in an inward arc.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0in;"><b><i>Rear Limb Problems:<o:p></o:p></i></b></div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0in;"><b>Sickle Hocks: </b>Small hock angles, also known as sickle hocks, is a conformation fault in which the point of the hock lines up under the buttock correctly, but the canon bone angles forward so that the horse is standing under from the hock down. In profile, the leg appears to curve forward, giving it some resemblance to a sickle. This conformation places the plantar (rear) aspect of the hock under great stress, predisposing the horse to sprain and strain of the soft tissue structures that support the back part of the hock. Most experts agree that any horse with hock angles of less than 53 degrees is sickle-hocked. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">At one time, it was thought that sickle-hocked horses had some advantages in Western performance sports. As conformation expert Dr. Charles Hutton of Murray State University states, “There was a time when people, including some judges, would say that they wanted a horse whose hocks ‘set up under him’ because it made it easier for him to stop. To a limited degree, that’s true, because when you’re starting a sickle-hocked horse in training, they often do seem to have an advantage stopping. But the problem is that they get sore, and once they get sore, they quit. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">“Horses with this problem are often not clinically lame – they just can’t perform all that well because it’s uncomfortable for them. Some of them do become clinically lame with what’s called a curb, which is an inflammation in the ligament of the accessory metatarsal bone on the rear of the hock. But typically, unless they’re worked real hard, they just have performance weaknesses because of soreness.”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0.5in;"><b>Is it a deal breaker: </b>Again, it depends on the degree and your use. In general, horses with severe sickle hocks should not be subjected to intensive training and competition, but if the problem is mild, you may still be able to aim high if you are careful. Explains Dr. Hutton, “If a horse is only a little bit sickle-hocked but I felt that it was a horse that was otherwise going to make it, I would ride that horse a bit differently. By that I mean that I would put less pressure on its hocks in training and slow down my progression of exercises.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">“It is also very important to work with a farrier who understands that your horse has this weakness, and who would be particularly careful to keep the hoof angle in agreement with the pastern angle. I wouldn’t exaggerate it by standing the horse up, but the toes must not be allowed to become long. If you let a sickle-hocked horse get long toed in the back, you’re going to exaggerate the stresses that the sickle hock already creates.”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">So, a potentially manageable problem, especially if your use is not so intense, but best avoided if you are serious about any work that involves really working the hocks – which is just about everything, from dressage to jumping to reining to barrel racing.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0in;"><b>Straight Hocks: </b> Straight hocks, also known as “post legs” or being “straight behind”, is a conformation fault in which the angles of the stifles and hocks are larger than normal, while the fetlock angles are smaller than normal. The result is hind legs that look straighter than normal from a lateral (side) perspective. This a particularly serious conformation fault that predisposes the horse to a variety of problems including:</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; margin-left: 0.15in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; margin-left: 49.5pt; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><b><span style="color: black;">Distal tarsal osteoarthritis (bone spavin):</span></b><span style="color: black;"> Non-inflammatory degeneration of the lower, narrower part of the hock joint. Usually shows up as chronic, intermittent lameness that worsens with increasing athletic demands. Other signs may include reduced performance, reluctance to work off the hind end, and back pain.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; margin-left: 49.5pt; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><b><span style="color: black;">Tarsocrural effusion (bog spavin): </span></b><span style="color: black;">Inflammation and presence of excessive and/or abnormal fluid in the large upper part of the hock. .Most often appears as sudden swelling of the joint, but the swelling may become chronic if the problem is not treated appropriately. Signs include variable amounts of swelling in the hock accompanied by varying degrees of lameness, though some horses will not be noticeably lame. </span><b><o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; margin-left: 49.5pt; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><b>Proximal suspensory desmitis: </b>Inflammation of the upper part of the suspensory ligament. Symptoms tend to be subtle, with little or no heat or swelling, and often no obvious lameness. The horse may exhibit poor performance, changes in gait, or other signs often mistakenly attributed to other ailments. The condition is frequently bilateral and will worsen with work, when circling or in deep footing. <b><o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; margin-left: 49.5pt; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><b>Upward fixation of the patella (locking stifle)</b>: Partial or complete inability to unlock the stifle (knee) joint. Most often affects one hind leg at a time. Affected horses will have varying symptoms depending on the severity of the condition, ranging from a slight clicking, hop or hitch in the affected limb to a total inability to bring the leg forward.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; margin-left: 49.5pt; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><b>Thoroughpin</b>: Enlargement of the tendon sheath of the deep digital flexor tendon in the hollow space between the point of hock and the back of the joint. A sign of strain, but considered a “blemish” that does not affect performance or require treatment. Takes the form of a spongy bump that may go down over time.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 31.5pt;">Horses with straight hocks are at greater risk for these problems because the straighter angles of the hock and stifle make those joints less able to dissipate concussive force as it travels up the hind limb. As Dr. Hilary Clayton of the Department of Large Animal Clinical Sciences at Michigan State University explains, “The initial 20% of stance [the period in which the foot is in contact with the ground during movement] is known as the impact phase. During impact, the hoof is decelerated and the limb is loaded passively. The joints assist in shock absorption through compression of the joint angles, and the amount of tarsal (hock) flexion affects the amount of energy absorbed. Our studies have shown that there is less flexion and, consequently, less energy absorption, in straight tarsal joints.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 31.5pt;"><b>Is it a deal breaker? </b>Some horses with straight hocks will start showing problems very early in training, yet others perform quite well and are never seriously affected by the problem. Nonetheless, all horses with straight hocks should be monitored closely for developing problems. Keeping them in a consistent, moderate exercise program can help them stay sound, but activities that put excessive concussion or strain on the joints put them at a higher risk than average for injury.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><b>Camped out: </b> Horses that are camped out have hind legs that are well behind the point of buttock when the cannon is perpendicular to the ground. This condition is rare, but results in short stridedness and poor athletic ability. It may predispose the horse to a variety of lameness issues involving the hind limbs and lower back. Some horses may appear to be camped out if not positioned properly for examination.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">All Limbs:</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><b><i><br />
</i></b></div><div style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><b><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Pastern Angles: </span></b><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Ideally, the pastern should be moderate in length and angle. The front pasterns should range in angle from 45 – 50 degrees, while the hind pasterns will appear slightly straighter with an angle range from 50 – 55 degrees. The angle of the pastern plays a significant role in determining the amount of load placed on the lower limbs. </span></div><div style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Short, steep pasterns are undesirable and are associated with a short, choppy stride. In addition, this may predispose a horse to <strong>navicular disease </strong>by increasing the concussion on the navicular bone. Horses with this conformation may also be more prone to superficial digital flexor tendonitis. </span></div><div style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Long pasterns are often accompanied by excessive sloping pastern angles. This places excessive strain on the tendons and ligaments of the lower limbs, as well as on the fetlock joints. Such pasterns are weak and more prone to breakdown. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><b>Hoof Angles: </b>While bone structure dictates pastern conformation, the hoof angle can be changed to a great degree – for better or for worse – through trimming and shoeing. In general, the angle of the hoof follows the angle of the coffin bone and should follow the angle of the pastern, creating a straight pastern-foot axis. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">In horses that have rotation of the coffin bone due to founder, the angle of the coffin bone may deviate significantly from the outside angle of the hoof, thus creating a broken pastern-hoof axis that can only be observed with radiographs. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">Another problem is when a horse has low heels accompanied by long toes, which breaks the foot axis forward. This hoof shape also delays the breakover of the foot, changing the way the horse moves and putting strain on the suspensory system. Breakover refers to the<span style="color: black;"> motion of the horse's foot as the toe leaves the ground. Breakover also refers to the point at which this motion occurs. Once thought to occur at the front of the toe, the work of Dr. Robert Bowker (MSU) has shown it actually occurs just in front of the coffin bone.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><b><span style="color: black;">Hoof Size: </span></b><span style="color: black;">For a long time, there was a trend in the stock horse world (Quarter Horses, Appaloosas and Paints) to breed big, muscular horses with tiny feet. THIS IS BAD, and most people now realize it. You want to see a nice, big, strong foot under the horse, as it needs to support a whole lot of weight! Many other aspects of the hoof can be improved with good trimming practices, and appropriate nutrition, and even the size can increase in some cases. However, genetics will determine the size of the foot to a large extent.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><span style="color: black;">As for other aspects of the hoof, as long as there is no underlying issue such as chronic laminitis (see below), a “bad” foot – one with thin, shelly walls, long toes, contracted heels, underrun heels, etc. – can often be transformed into a “good” one with proper trimming and nutrition. Still, it is nice to start with great feet. A healthy foot will be quite round in shape, especially the fronts. The heel will be wide, and the frog will contact the ground and be of a healthy, rubbery consistency. The toes will be short – not “dubbed” by a farrier, but actually short. The wall and heel height will be determined by the live sole plane of the bottom of the foot, but typically, a truly healthy foot will have a front wall no longer than 3” from coronet band to the ground. We typically see hooves much longer than that, especially in shod horses. Leading hoof researchers now believe that what we are used to seeing as “normal” in the hoof is in many, many cases actually hooves with pathologically long toes, high heels, contracted heels and contracted frogs. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><span style="color: black;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: 11.5pt; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-OEs3xlWoZiepZk8xe7QtBLKZZWmcrBiYV8NeCbiwqCxVOtaBNrMvbWLpQFc_yT59MUnA5MwY7N4H5RM1y_AD-atQPoccj7aQaPU4ktQ5BX5h_r2wfaIVsZ-Zr0_lC8F0uqtns5lW_Gd3/s1600/Hoof+comparison+photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-OEs3xlWoZiepZk8xe7QtBLKZZWmcrBiYV8NeCbiwqCxVOtaBNrMvbWLpQFc_yT59MUnA5MwY7N4H5RM1y_AD-atQPoccj7aQaPU4ktQ5BX5h_r2wfaIVsZ-Zr0_lC8F0uqtns5lW_Gd3/s320/Hoof+comparison+photo.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11.5pt;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: black;"> <o:p></o:p></span>The foot on the left is healthy. Notice the round shape, the wide heels, and the thick, wide robust frog that makes contact with the ground. Notice also that most of the foot is behind the white dot marking the true apex of the frog. Ideally there should be 2/3 behind that dot, and only 1/3 in front. The foot on the right has contracted heels, an atrophied frog that does not touch the ground (and therefore cannot absorb shock, which is its natural purpose), and at least half the foot is in front of the white dot.</div><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15px;"><br />
</span></span></div>The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7681315401791099424.post-21287705430145038432011-08-20T21:58:00.001-07:002012-02-23T16:07:21.273-08:00GAITED HORSES for the WESTERN RIDER<div class="MsoTitle">WHY GAITED HORSES ARE FOR MORE THAN JUST A SMOOTH TRAIL RIDE</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br />
</div></div><div class="MsoBodyTextIndent">As a Western rider, your favorite mount is almost certainly a Quarter Horse, Paint, Appaloosa – or if you’re a bit on the daring side, maybe an Arabian or a Morgan. More than likely, you’ve never ridden a gaited horse, and would never have thought that you would want to. You might think that a cowboy would look odd or just plain silly on a gaited horse, or that such horses are really only suitable for English disciplines. It might surprise you, therefore, to learn that two of the most iconic Western horses of all time – the Lone Ranger’s “Silver” and Roy Rogers’ “Trigger” – were both gaited horses, (Tennessee Walking Horses, to be specific), and that gaited horses can do just about anything the more traditional stock breeds can do. In fact, a growing number of Western riders are discovering the joys of riding gaited horses for a variety of activities, from ranch work and pleasure riding to sports like barrel racing, competitive trail, cutting and reining. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Although gaited horses come in many shapes and sizes, and the various breeds originated in very different parts of the globe, they all have one thing in common: a remarkably smooth and comfortable way of going that many riders say is like “floating”. Developed to allow horsemen to stay in the saddle for long hours over many miles with little fatigue, gaited horses are gaining in popularity, especially among people who need or simply want a less jarring ride than non-gaited horses can provide. Of course, a well trained stock horse of any breed can do a slow jog that is often quite smooth and comfortable, but the difference is that a gaited horse’s smoothness is natural, and they can maintain it <i>at speed. </i>Sort of like getting a Cadillac and a Ferrari all rolled into one<i>.</i> Add to this the fact that many of the gaited breeds are used as stock horses in their countries of origin, and suddenly, they don’t sound so odd after all.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">The gaited breeds we’ve profiled below are only a few of many, but they will give you an idea of what these wonderful horses are capable of. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: purple;">THE PASO FINO</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> With a history that traces back to Christopher Columbus’s exploration of the New World, the Paso Fino has been bred in Columbia for over 500 years, but is now found throughout Central, South and North America. Used by the Conquistadors for travel and battle, and by the <i>vaqueros</i> for herding cattle, the Paso Fino was prized for its stamina, its catlike athleticism, its great beauty, and its spirited yet gentle temperament. Most of all, however, it was valued for its natural and incomparably smooth, four-beat lateral gait, the <i>paso fino</i> (“fine walk”) for which it is named. All of these qualities are still readily apparent in the Paso Finos of today.</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Camilla Willings, of Fina Vista Farm in Damascus, Ontario, is a breeder, trainer and exhibitor of Paso Fino horses. “I used to ride a variety of different horses,” she says, “but when I first rode a Paso Fino, I almost fell off laughing! Wow...those feet were going to beat the band, and I was just flying around the ring. I felt like I was riding a magic carpet – no bouncing, just gliding. I was hooked! I then began investigating the various gaited breeds, but was drawn back to the Paso Fino for their naturalness, their beauty, their energetic spirit, their unparalleled smoothness and their wonderful temperaments and personalities.” </div><div class="MsoNormal"> Willings has seen a steady growth in the popularity of the Paso Fino in Canada, which reflects the over 60% growth in membership the Paso Fino Horse Association in the U.S. has seen since 1992. She attributes the rising interest in Paso Finos and other gaited breeds in part to the increasing age of the Baby Boomers. As she explains, “The majority of my customers are 45 or older, pleasure riders who are either looking for their first horse, or their first horse in a long time, or a horse to replace the one they are no longer physically comfortable riding. Whether it is a sore back, sore neck, sore knees, hips or tushes, it is often the pain of riding a trotting horse that leads them to the pleasure of a gaited one. The funny thing is, they may come to the breed because of their age<br />
or the pains they feel with trotting horses, but when they get here, they wonder why they waited so long and why everyone doesn't ride a gaited horse.”</div><div class="MsoNormal"> One thing that may put some people off of the Paso Fino is its small stature – 13hh to 15.2hh, with the average being a little over 14hh. However, they are exceptionally strong for their size and are generally considered capable of carrying roughly 25% of their body weight. Says Willings, “Most good sized Paso Finos can carry all but the very largest riders without difficulty. This is possible because the nature of the Paso Fino gait is such that at least one and up to three feet are on the ground at all times. This lack of ‘air time’ is what makes the horse so smooth (no period of suspension<br />
equals minimal or no bounce), and what makes them capable of carrying a lot<br />
of weight for their size with less stress to their own structure.” Still, she advises that larger riders should seek out Paso Finos with more substantial frames (they range from delicate to stocky in frame), larger bone, and healthy, strong suspensories. Despite its relative smallness, the Paso Fino can look like a lot of horse, due to the breed’s active and spirited way of going. But for those who fear that this might be too much for them, Willings says, “Within the Paso Fino breed there is a wide range of temperament, from the 'very spicy, not for beginners' type to the 'gentle as a lamb, safe for the whole family' type. For the prospective buyer of a Paso, or any horse for that matter, I think it is important to find an honest, reputable breeder whose priority is matching horse to rider. Additionally, it is always important to be honest with yourself – how quiet or spirited of a horse do you really feel comfortable on? Are you capable of doing some training yourself, or do you need to invest in a fully trained animal? Answering such questions truthfully will help you find the Paso that is right for you.”</div><div class="MsoNormal"> As for its gait, if you haven’t seen a Paso Fino moving, it can be difficult to imagine, but the Paso Fino Horse Association describes it as follows: “The gait of the Paso Fino horse is an evenly-spaced, four-beat lateral gait with each foot contacting the ground independently… Executed perfectly, the four hoof beats are absolutely even in both cadence and impact, resulting in unequaled smoothness and comfort for the rider. The Paso Fino is capable of executing other gaits that are natural to horses, including the relaxed walk and lope or canter. The Paso Fino gait is performed at three forward speeds (Classic Fino, Paso Corto and Paso Largo) and with varying degrees of collection..”<strong><o:p></o:p></strong></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Regarding the Paso Fino’s suitability as a Western mount, Willings urges people to not to assume that the Paso Fino can’t do something because it is gaited. “Paso Finos and other gaited breeds are like other horses in their ability to do whatever they are trained for,” she says, “and they are only limited by the expectations and experiences brought by their owners.” She acknowledges that you are not likely to see a Paso Fino competing at the highest levels in the stock horse sports, but says, “I know of lots of Paso Finos performing cattle work, racing barrels or doing reining at a local or fun level. I personally had a blast doing some team penning a few years back with my Paso Fino mare.”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Willings had a chance to put her horse’s “cowiness” to the test recently when she and a friend took two Paso Finos on a cattle drive on a large working ranch. Though the pair got some strange looks at first, their horses ended up impressing even the most skeptical cowboys. As Willings recalls, “We spent the day rounding up and moving a large herd of Angus cattle, and over the course of the day our horses were the focus of much scrutiny. However, Paso Finos really are great at this work. They are so quick and nimble that they have no trouble making the speedy maneuvering required in cattle work. Their quickness to learn and eagerness to please also helps with this work – and their smooth gait and tremendous stamina certainly make it a pleasure for the rider. We loved it and so did our horses, and by the end of the day they had many enthusiastic admirers. People seemed impressed at their ability to do the job and were also struck by their beauty.”</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #351c75;">THE ICELANDIC HORSE</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Another interesting breed that can make a fun Western mount is the Icelandic Horse, which is the oldest gaited breed in the world. Small but stocky and phenomenally strong for their size, Icelandics were developed in an extreme environment of cold, ice, lava and rocks. They were highly valued by the Vikings and their descendents, who used them to round up sheep and as the main form of transportation of both goods and people. As one can imagine, the Icelandic horse’s tremendous endurance, its legendary sure-footedness, and its unique “tolt” – a four-beat gait which a quality horse can perform at a thrillingly high-speed – were particularly prized, as they made it possible for people to quickly cross great distances over some of the coldest, harshest terrain in the world.</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Lisi Ohm of Vanderhoof, BC, is a trainer, breeder and judge of Icelandic Horses. Originally from Germany, Ohm grew up doing dressage and jumping on German warmbloods, but even as a child, she was drawn to Icelandic horses. As she recalls, “I read about them and was fascinated by the age of the breed and their aura of <i>h<span style="color: black;">reggfaxi</span> </i>(wind in the mane), meaning the head proudly up, the legs flying, the rider sitting at ease and motionless, and the huge mane flying like rays around the horse’s head and neck - power and fun in motion!” She started working with Icelandics in 1989 and hasn’t looked back since. </div><div class="MsoNormal"> Having been involved with the breed in both Iceland and North America, Ohm has observed differences in people’s perception of the breed on this side of the pond. “Here,” she says, “Icelandics get marketed as fluffy, easy-going guys that anybody can ride. You do have that kind within the breed and they are cherished, but the goal of an Icelandic breeder is a fine, responsive horse with speed in all gaits, which can be intimidating for beginners. We clocked one of our competition horses at 30km/h in tolt and in trot – and he wasn’t even trying hard! There certainly are some really nice once for the beginner rider, but if you want to truly experience what Icelanders call the ‘gaedingar’ ( the perfect riding horse ), then work to become a good, balanced rider, get on an Icelandic that can really <i>move</i>, and I promise, you will have the time of your life!” <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"> Ohm recommends that those new to Icelandics should buy a well-trained horse secure in its gaits, because the unique Icelandic gaits can disappear with constant rider mistakes. Icelandic horses can be four or five gaited, with speed, consistency, and high leg action being desirable. Says Ohm, “From the talented Icelandic horse, you would expect to see a powerful, long-strided walk; a fast trot with good suspension and stride length; a round, jumping, three-beat canter and also a fast, spirited gallop; the famous tolt: a four-beat gait with high action and beautiful carriage in various speeds – from slow and collected with expression to high speed with high front leg action and the hind legs stepping well under; and the exhilarating ‘flying pace’, a two-beat gait in racing speed with a clear ‘flying’ phase between the lateral leg movements.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">While Icelandic horses are traditionally ridden in saddles that look something like a hybrid of an endurance saddle and a dressage or park saddle, they can be ridden and enjoyed in Western tack. Elaine Sanderman, an Icelandic trainer and breeder in Bowden, AB says, “We always ride Western, and I do everything with my Icelandics, from driving to cattle penning.” She finds that Icelandics are no different than any other breed when it comes to their ability to do Western sports. “Some are really good at things like penning, and some are scared of cows. Some of them are really quick and agile, and some are slow.” </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;"> Like Camilla Willings on her Pasos, Sanderman sometimes gets strange looks when doing Western sports on her Icelandics, but she says, “Icelandics can do whatever you train them to do. One of our clients did roping and everything with her Icelandic, and we’ve participated in a reining clinic, so it’s really up to you.” The only thing you have to take into consideration, Sanderman says, is the type of Western saddle you put on an Icelandic. “Because they have a shorter back,” she says, “the larger saddles get in the way of their hind ends going down hill, so you want a rounder, shorter skirt.”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Sanderman first got into Icelandics by way of a boarder, who asked Sanderman to exercise the two Icelandics she had boarded there. “I told her that I would, but they were going to have to take a Western saddle,” Sanderman recalls. “She said that was fine with her, and I just couldn’t believe how much fun I had on those things! I went out and got some for myself, and now we’ve sold all our Paints and just have the Icelandics.” Even Sanderman’s husband has been won over, although it wasn’t an easy sell at first. Says Sanderman, “He took a look at them and said, ‘I’m not riding a little pony.’ Then one day, we were out on a trail and the horse he was on was acting up, so I told him I would ride that one and he would have to ride my Icelandic. At the end of the ride, I noticed that he wasn’t asking for his horse back, even though it had calmed down. I asked him why, and he kind of looked at me and said, ‘Because I like riding <i>this </i>horse.’”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Sanderman points out that while her husband is “not a small man,” there is no problem with one of the larger Icelandics carrying a bigger rider. “When we were at the reining clinic, the clinician actually said that my husband and his horse suited each other very well. I’m not small myself, and I’m on them all the time. You have to keep in mind that Icelandic men are good sized, and we find that the only real difference with these horses being shorter is that they are easier to get on. You really have to ride them to know – don’t judge them before you ride one, because you just can’t imagine it if you’ve never experienced it.”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #660000;"><b>THE TENNESSEE WALKING HORSE</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> If you like the idea of a gaited horse, but you just can’t see yourself on something as exotic as a Paso or an Icelandic, the Tennessee Walking Horse (TWH) might be the perfect horse for you. As previously mentioned, many Hollywood cowboys have been mounted on TWHs because they needed something smooth, gentle and good looking, but the TWH also makes an excellent “using” horse out in the real world. They are a good size, ranging from 14.2hh to 16.2hh, and though they make flashy show horses, they are also tough, outdoor horses that can carry a big rider all day. Historically, the breed was an all-rounder used for plantation work, riding stock, and transportation. They became widely popularity for the ease of their gait, their versatility, their docile temperament and their ability to stride all day over the rocky middle Tennessee terrain. Today, the TWH is the second fastest growing breed in the world.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Kim Pringle, D.EqSc, of Pringle Farms in Arden, ON, is a breeder, trainer and exhibitor of TWHs who is not surprised at their increasing popularity. She was attracted to the breed for their proven versatility, as well as the variety of established breed programs for people to enroll in. “I show my horses in all breed shows, compete in TWH Dressage Testing, and do demonstrations throughout Ontario,” she says. In addition, Pringle started reining last year and has fallen in love with the sport. “I am hoping to compete at some NRHA shows next year,” she says, having no doubt that she can hold her own on a TWH. As she explains, “Due to their athletic ability and their to-die-for balanced canter, Walking horses are competitive in many Western disciplines such as reining, cattle penning, endurance riding and speed events like barrel racing.” </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">Indeed, TWHs are one of the few gaited breeds that you do sometimes see going head to head with the stock breeds in Open competitions – and sometimes coming out on top. In addition, the TWH’s smooth gaits, good mind and desire to please also make them a natural fit for Trail Obstacle Classes, and for Search and Rescue work known as “Ride for Rescue,” for which they are used in Western Canada. Perhaps most revealing of just how much these horses can do is the TWH Supreme Versatility Program. In order for a horse to earn the title of Supreme Versatility Champion, they must earn points in Gaited Riding Classes, Reining, Dressage, Jumping, Barrel Racing, Pole Bending, Trail Obstacle, Halter, Promotion Events and Driving. Now that’s versatility!</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">The TWH is also known for is its exceptionally gentle nature, which makes them an excellent mount for less experienced riders. Says Pringle, “The TWH is a perfect ‘First Horse’. They are user friendly and forgiving, and their people loving disposition will win you over. TWHs are an amazing combination of ‘GO’ without being hot headed, which is why they are said to be ‘Smooth, Sensible & Safe’. And, as the population ages, people are looking at the TWH because that ‘glide ride’ enables them to ride for many more years. That said, they are also wonderful horses for more advanced riders, who discover that they can continue to develop and test their riding skills in so many disciplines with these horses. Of course, trail riders love them because they are bold, not spooky, pleasant to be around, oh so smoooooth and <i>fast</i>. I’m telling you, if anything else is going to catch me out on the trail, it will need to have wings!” </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">As for tack for the TWH, Pringle says, “Saddle fit is always important. A TWH should have a saddle that frees up the shoulders. You do not have to have a special saddle, but do make sure it fits you and the horse. The “Tennessean” was made exclusively for the TWH, and they do fit other gaited breeds. It is a good quality Western saddle, and they also have a great light weight endurance saddle for long distance riding. The Tucker is very comfortable with its gel seat, and the Brenda Imus ‘4 beat saddle’ is popular with many pleasure gaited Western riders. I like close contact reining saddles for riding & training TWHs. My personal saddle is a Circle Y Ladies Reining saddle.”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">OTHER BREEDS</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> There are other breeds of gaited horses that are equally worth attention, including the American Saddlebred, Rocky Mountain Horse, Peruvian Paso, and Missouri Foxtrotter. There are even gaited mules, for those who are fans of the “long-ears”. If you are considering going gaited, the best thing to do is to leave your assumptions in the truck and just try as many different kinds and individuals as you can. Do keep in mind that gaiting is natural to these horses, and while training can enhance their movement, you want to stay away from trainers and breeders who utilize unnatural methods or shoeing techniques to achieve more extravagant gaits. Stick with the beauty and smoothness that generations of careful breeders have given these horses, and you will know why people say that to ride a gaited horse is to own one.</div>The Equinisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09769888242369178283noreply@blogger.com0